Ok for starters, the stock tach on my car had a redline of 5800 rpm. I bought my 2.0 a while back and have been driving it around for a while now. I started out only pulling to around 3000 rpm and started to bump it up a little more bit by bit. I have now got the revs up near 4000 rpm. As soon as I hit around 4000 rpm, it starts to make somewhat of a hissing noise. Another thing is it doesn't feel like it wants to push over 4000 rpm. I don't know if there is something wrong or I'm just imagining things. If anyone has some sort of advice for this, please help me out. Thanks
-Chris

First of all you're lugging the engine, always do over 3000rpm...it's fan cooled after all.

Have you tried to go over 4000rpm? It should rev to redline easy.

I have always been shifting above 3000 rpm, just never close to the redline. I just tried pushing to 4000 rpm earlier today. It felt nice up to that point, but once I hit 4000 rpm it felt like it didn't want to go any higher. Maybe I am just imagining things. I'll have to take it out again and try higher revs to see what it feels like. Thanks
-Chris

The hissing noise??

Carbs or FI? Carbs hiss or some say make a roaring noise.

Don't be afraid to rev it...and don't lug it!
Nothing worse for an aircooled engine.

Take it to 5000 every now and then and clean it out. If I drove at 3000 to 3500 I would be late to where ever I was going! (but then I guess I do not care about gas $$$$)

I'm currently running dual carbs. I just took it out a minute ago and tried to rev over 4000 rpm. For some reason it honestly felt like it wouldn't go over that rev. It started making a loud hissing noise and it was popping a lot. I guess it could be carb adjustments? I'm hoping either with adjustments or with time it will open itself up and allow for me to push up closer to the redline. They were used and old when we got them so obviously they aren't in brand new condition. We did do a rebuild kit on them to try and freshen them up. But I am really hoping this isn't something bad, but from what you guys have said, it doesn't seem like it is. Thanks
-Chris

Sounds like it may be leaning out. I'd guess either fuel delivery or carbs. What carbs do you have?

Dual Weber 40's. So could it possibly be a shortage of fuel running to the carbs or maybe just because the carbs are old they need to be run and cleaned through maybe? Let me know. Thanks
-Chris

Did the cabs come with the engine, or did you transfer them from the 1.8? The adjustment knobs olny affect idle and mid, high RPM is all done with jet changes. It would be a significant jet change to go from a 1.8 to 2.0.

If the carbs were last used on a 1.8, I'd start with a carb rebuild and rejet. If the carbs were last used (and worked fine) on a 2.0, I'd start with changing the fuel filter and checking the screen/lines, then rebuild the carbs if it still does it.

I actually don't know what engine the carbs were used with, or when they were last used. When I bought the 2.0, it came with fuel injection installed, and the carbs came as an extra. When we put the motor in my car, we couldn't get the fuel injection to work so we switched to carbs. We did buy and install a rebuild kit less than a month ago. I'll look into what you said to check and see what comes up. Thanks
-Chris

Check what part sizes you've got (there are quite a few tunable parts in a weber) and post them here. The experts (I'm no expert) will be able to tell you if you're even in the ballpark for a 2.0.

QUOTE (bondo @ Nov 19 2005, 06:12 PM)

Check what part sizes you've got (there are quite a few tunable parts in a weber) and post them here. The experts (I'm no expert) will be able to tell you if you're even in the ballpark for a 2.0.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by this . . . Can you explain what you mean please Thanks
-Chris

put the FI back on......

QUOTE (NeunXIV @ Nov 20 2005, 10:26 AM)

QUOTE (bondo @ Nov 19 2005, 06:12 PM) Check what part sizes you've got (there are quite a few tunable parts in a weber) and post them here. The experts (I'm no expert) will be able to tell you if you're even in the ballpark for a 2.0. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by this . . . Can you explain what you mean please Thanks -Chris

Fill out this chart: (ignore anything that says secondary, as you don't have secondary stuff)

weber chart

I also agree you should consider putting the FI back if it's in decent shape and complete. Chances are it was a minor thing keeping it from running.

The FI was in working condition. It ran with it before we picked up the motor, but once we put it in my car, it wouldn't work. I'm not sure why, but something happened or wasn't hooked up correctly causing it to not work. I'll fill out the chart later today. Thanks
-Chris

I think you'll find it will be substantially cheaper and easier to run the EFI. For one thing, gas mileage will be much better (like high 20s intead of low 20s) with the FI than with Webers if the rest of the engine is still stock. If you have the complete setup and it used to work, then getting it to work again shouldn't be a big deal.

PM me if you'd like on-site help in getting the FI to work. I'd also be willing to help with the carbs, but I'd be more willing to help with the FI.

Carbs can hiss as you describe from air getting around the filter housing. Might be missing a papr gasket between flter base plate and throttle linkage mount plate and or the carb top to one of those plates.

FYI I just made 29 MPG in my Big cammed ported polished, Bus pistoned 2.0l . Ok so it is tweaked to a knats ass of perfect. But it rocks

Oh and my Rev limiting rotor keep me from going over 5850 RPM. When I take it out the damn thing will pull to 7K

I'm going with the FI... Put it back on and then diagnose the problem(s).

The D-Jet is actually fairly easy to diagnose as long as you follow a methodical approach like that specified in the information provided by pbanders recommendations.....

I don't think any gaskets are missing . . . there shouldn't be any missing! We just rebuilt them so every gasket that was there or needed to be there was replaced. So I don't think that's a problem. I'm hoping it's just adjustments that are necessary to get my motor to run properly and smoothly. I think my dad and I are going to take my car up to Rich Bontempi and see if he can help us with some carb adjustments and see what happens. I've also been considering leaving the 2.0 with carbs and having my 1.8 beefed up and rebuilt with fuel injection *and possibly a supercharger *. Is it possible for a 1.8 to be quicker than a 2.0? Let me know. Thanks
-Chris

What do the plugs look like? Rich or lean?

Is the timing and dwell correct? An engine that won't rev sounds like an engine without enough advance.

-Ben M.

QUOTE (airsix @ Nov 21 2005, 01:30 PM)

What do the plugs look like? Rich or lean? Is the timing and dwell correct? An engine that won't rev sounds like an engine without enough advance. -Ben M.

or main jets too small. i get that power drop off on my dirt bike. huge difference when the main goes up two sizes at sea level. (compared to sierra nevada riding)

the advance from a 1.8 to a 2.0 is about the same.
always good to check that the advance weights are not seized... =-) lil' dab of white grease fixes that.

Roger