Right, so I noticed the other day that the rear trunk was sitting high on the driver's side. Popped it open, lowered, opened, lowered, open, up, down, you get the idea. Only thing I noticed was the roller was cracked and wasn't really rolling, more like sliding. Added some white lithium grease, much quieter, but still not sitting right. (note: the torsion bars are still in use in case you hadn't gleaned that yet)

Stop by PP, pick up some aluminum rollers (very sweet btw), pop in the driver side. No change. Hmmm....

I start pushing the lid forward and back and notice that the hinge/pivot is moving was well. I assume this means that I have a busted weld in there, but I want to make sure.

If it is the case, am I looking ay JWest as my best option?

The trunk is sitting flush now, but I don't want to make this problem worse.

TIA.

I had a similar probelm. Sounds like one of the hing bolts has sheared. If you can get a closer look you may be able to see for sure. Should be an easy fix if there is enough thread exposed to grab on to. The guy that fixed mine had to weld a thin piece of rod to the end of the bolt to ease the broken part out.

If the bolt is not sheared, the mount pulls away from the sheet metal and needs to be welded back.

If it is twisted, it is easier to buy a new mount and bolt and weld it in using the original spot welds as the locater.

Worst part is dealing with the *&^%&^#%$ torsion bars.

BTDT..............

I feel your pain.

Go for the JWest pivot. You will NOT regret it!

Interesting product. Prolly really good for those who are welding and measuring challenged. Kinda complicated, and adjustible because those who buy it are likely to need that feature. If you can't do it right, do it that way. The Cap'n

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 22 2005, 11:38 PM)

Prolly really good for those who are welding and measuring challenged. <snip> If you can't do it right, do it that way. The Cap'n

I'm sure you didn't mean that the way it sounds....

I actually think this is a vast improvement over the original pivot. Some of us have 30 year old cars that aren't perfectly straight anymore. The original pivot does not give any allowance AT ALL for misalignment between the two pivots. With the heim joint on the JWest pivot, one side is allowed to be slightly escentric.

Even if your car is still pristene, that pivot is built like a tank. I can't see you having to replace it like the stock one that so many people are having tear away from the side of the car!

Even if you DID have to replace it after 30 years it would be a FAR easier job!

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 23 2005, 02:38 AM)

Interesting product. Prolly really good for those who are welding and measuring challenged. Kinda complicated, and adjustible because those who buy it are likely to need that feature. If you can't do it right, do it that way. The Cap'n

You can replace the original pivots with all new parts and do a great welding job, but they will still break again. The bracket itself usually fails, leaving your perfect weld still intact.

"If you want to do it again and again, do it the original way."

I like James' pivots just fine, and I think they are a great solution for some cars, but there are some cars I'd use them on and some I wouldn't.

If you properly reinforce the original pivot brackets, and keep the shoulder bolt lubricated, a correct repair should last as long as you live.

I make sure the threaded insert is tack welded on the back side, and I fabricate additional angle brackets to stiffen the OEM brackets. There is also I trick I do to the shoulder bolts.

QUOTE (sgomes @ Nov 22 2005, 08:30 PM)

I feel your pain. Go for the JWest pivot. You will NOT regret it!

AGREED!!!!
I had the same problem mine was high on one side. Went the way of JWest... Very satisfied...

I used to be able to get replacement pivots with only one side cut off, so you had about 60% of the circle to weld instead of 40%. Lubing everything and keeping the rollers in good shape makes 'em last. The Cap'n

the torsion spring set up puts alot of stress on teh pivot mount

On my car, seems like if I weld the pivot into the proper place for the trunk to close, adding the torsion spring seems to move the trunk up outa alignment. That means the pivot should be placed lower but then the trunk is too low and doesn't line up Adding the spring bulges the trunk up but how low (for the pivot) is just right?....

Darned PO had one tab on each pivot stick welded and one tab with a small sheet metal screw. Tough to guess where the pivots should go so adjustmet should prove useful...

Ken

I'm real happy with my JWest Hinge Kit and Camp 914 Shox Kit, I would highly recomend them both.

another picture

Great pix. I need to get in there today and look at the hinge and see what's the matter.

Deep frying turkey and all the trimmings takes a lot out of a guy.

if you weld up the pivot point, make sure it is int he exact right location, any deviation from original location may cause very noticable trunk misalignment.

That being the case, get it welded up (easy job with a MIG welder) BEFORE it completely fails and comes off. As long as some is still attached, you should be able to re-weld back tot he original location. Once it fall off, it is difficult to re-position.

Original ones work fine, but they MUST be lubricated.

QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Nov 25 2005, 10:12 PM)

any deviation from original location may cause very noticable trunk misalignment.

you guys know that you can adjust the trunk lid in all 3 dimensions. right?

right?
Andy

three diminsions? There is some play in the hinge to trunk lid bolt holes but not much, so the pivot point really has to be close. Thats my experience. One hell of a time trying to get a lid to fit decent with a close but not perfect re-weld

I figure two diminsions, left/right and back/forward. Overall hieght can be increase by adding washers between the lid and hinge, but short of bending the hinges (have done that) I think it would be very difficult to lower a lid that has no washers added already.

So how do you adjust in 3-D the lid?

So I inspected the pivot today and the drivers side pivot is totally broken off. What a bummer.

The passenger side has a really nasty looking weld on it too, so I think its been "fixed" before.

Not really excited about replacing the pivot points.

According to the JWest, the replacement kit requires no welding. Is that practical? Seems like even the new pivots need to be welded into place.

I am thinking that fixing the existing pivot might be my best option. Can I just weld that old pivot point back into the correct spot?

TIA

QUOTE (KaptKaos @ Nov 26 2005, 04:16 PM)

According to the JWest, the replacement kit requires no welding. Is that practical? Seems like even the new pivots need to be welded into place.

Both of my pivots broke, and instead of welding new pivots in, I just put them in with sheet metal screws! And it has held for over 10 years now. Of course, I chunked the torsion bar, and hold my trunk up with a stick. I really want to do the Camp914 shock kit, but it looks like you have to cut the firewall.

The sheet metal screws probably wouldn't survive long with the torsion bars in use, too much force ont hem. Yes you can re-weld the old ones, that is wat I have done, if you are lucky you can line up the pivot bythe tron metal, and get the original spot again. Just use good welding practices, very clean metal, and a shielding gas MIG welder worked well for me. Practice on some thin scrap metal, the metal in the 914 is thin, easy too burn thru. Since i weld not too often, i need to tune up my skills each time on some scrap metal before i start on the car.


I believe you can still buy replacement pivots if yours are shot, of course you still got to weld them, but the original used one is ideal as you can near exactly fit it



good luck!!!

QUOTE

According to the JWest, the replacement kit requires no welding. Is that practical? Seems like even the new pivots need to be welded into place.

When I removed my original hinges, the metal that they were attached to looked a little rough, they were warped, streatched and torn and had PO repairs done. So I cut some of the bad area out and mig welded new pieces in, I probably really didn't need to go that far. I then primered the area and installed the J-West hinges, there are two pieces which sandwich the original metal. The replacement kit covers up what would have been the affected area anyway. You have to drill four holes through the sheet metal for mounting and it looks pretty strong to me.

[QUOTE]Both of my pivots broke, and instead of welding new pivots in, I just put them in with sheet metal screws! And it has held for over 10 years now. Of course, I chunked the torsion bar, and hold my trunk up with a stick. I really want to do the Camp914 shock kit, but it looks like you have to cut the firewall. [QUOTE]

No real cutting, you just have to notch one area on each side where the shock colapses into the firewall near the gutter when you close the trunk.

Here is the picture of the notch that I needed to do;

QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Nov 26 2005, 10:43 PM)

I believe you can still buy replacement pivots if yours are shot, of course you still got to weld them

They are still available OEM from a dealership. I think $19/ea (Trunk console), maybe more.

Ok, I just ordered a set of trunk shocks from Camp914. I sure hope they are worth the cutting of the firewall!

Here's a better picture of the notches in the firewall;

and here's a shot of the holes I drilled to install the J-West Hinge Kit;

I noticed you put your hinge kits at an angle, is that the way they recommended? It seems like that would cause any adjustment to move you trunk forward/backwards when you are only trying to raise/lower. Is that right?

Yes, I thought that was strange at first too, the instructions show it going in at an angle. The adjustments allow for raising and lowering the trunk, however, I got my trunk pretty much where I wanted it and marked the locations for the holes. I can fax you a copy of the instructions if you'd like to review them.

QUOTE (Lou W @ Nov 27 2005, 09:12 PM)

I can fax you a copy of the instructions if you'd like to review them.

I might like a copy of those too. Can I PM you the number tomorrow? I forget it at them moment, and will be able to call the office for it in the AM.

Thanks!

QUOTE

KaptKaos Posted on Nov 27 2005, 10:26 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- QUOTE (Lou W @ Nov 27 2005, 09:12 PM) I can fax you a copy of the instructions if you'd like to review them.   I might like a copy of those too. Can I PM you the number tomorrow? I forget it at them moment, and will be able to call the office for it in the AM. Thanks!

No Problem

QUOTE (KaptKaos @ Nov 28 2005, 12:26 AM)

QUOTE (Lou W @ Nov 27 2005, 09:12 PM) I can fax you a copy of the instructions if you'd like to review them. I might like a copy of those too. Thanks!

Or just ask me and I'll e-mail the instructions.

I just ordered a set of the hinge pivots as well. I better stop spending!

IMHO the JWest hinge pivots and the Camp914 shocks should be sold as a pair! They go sweet together. I wonder if JWest and Camp914 could come to some package agreement...

QUOTE (sgomes @ Nov 28 2005, 09:46 AM)

IMHO the JWest hinge pivots and the Camp914 shocks should be sold as a pair! They go sweet together.

Yep, that's the combo I have on my own car.

Ok, Were is the info on the 3 -D adjustment you alluded too Andy?