Oh I know carbs Progressive carbs suck but that was what was on it and in the trunk a box of FI:shit:...PO could not get ti to work so he put on a Progressive kit used of ebay arout 2000 ....
Full Version: help....
I have the carb out what next? any one have advise or web cite that shows ho to do this....
Oh I know carbs Progressive carbs suck but that was what was on it and in the trunk a box of FI:shit:...PO could not get ti to work so he put on a Progressive kit used of ebay arout 2000 ....
Oh I know carbs Progressive carbs suck but that was what was on it and in the trunk a box of FI:shit:...PO could not get ti to work so he put on a Progressive kit used of ebay arout 2000 ....
There are manuals out there that describe how to service Weber carbs. The Haynes Weber manual isn't bad, and covers all of the models you're likely to have.
You have to be fairly careful with describing what carb you're dealing with, because Weber has many carbs with similar names that are nothing alike. There is, for example, no 32/26 DFA, but there is a 32/36 DFAV, and a 40 DFA (and a 40 DFAV). The difference is that one has two throats of different sizes (32mm and 36mm), and the other has two throats of the same size (40mm). The 32/36 models are progressive, so both throats are meant to serve one plenum, with the smaller throat opening first (for good low-end flow), then the larger throat opening later (for good top end flow). The non-progressive 40 DFA opens both throats at the same time, and you're meant to serve half the cylinders with one throat, and the other half with the other throat.
The 32/36 progressive carb is part of a large family of carbs, which vary mostly in what type of choke is used (manul, electric automatic, water automatic), whether or not it has a power valve, how many floats it has, and whether the carb is "left-handed" or "right-handed". The DGV and DFV, for example, are the same carb except one is a mirror image of the other. The DFAV is the same as the DFV, except it has an automatic choke.
I suspect, esp. after looking at that photo, that you indeed have a DFAV.
A rebuild kit usually comprises nothing more than gaskets and a needle valve. Sometimes there are new mixture screws, too. There are lots of places that sell Weber rebuild kits, so use Google and find out. Redline and Pierce Manifolds are known good shops. Get the Haynes Weber manual, and you should be able to figure it out.
Do you have a 1.7, a 1.8, or a 2.0? Can you post a photo of the FI "shit" in the box? If you have a complete set of 2.0 parts, I may buy the contents of that box from you, since you don't seem interested in taking the club's previous advice on trying to get that to work instead.
FWIW, I bought a 1.7 with a 32/36 DFAV on it, and spent about a month trying to get it to right properly, and I've tuned lots of carbs over the years. I gave up and bought a pair of used IDFs.
You have to be fairly careful with describing what carb you're dealing with, because Weber has many carbs with similar names that are nothing alike. There is, for example, no 32/26 DFA, but there is a 32/36 DFAV, and a 40 DFA (and a 40 DFAV). The difference is that one has two throats of different sizes (32mm and 36mm), and the other has two throats of the same size (40mm). The 32/36 models are progressive, so both throats are meant to serve one plenum, with the smaller throat opening first (for good low-end flow), then the larger throat opening later (for good top end flow). The non-progressive 40 DFA opens both throats at the same time, and you're meant to serve half the cylinders with one throat, and the other half with the other throat.
The 32/36 progressive carb is part of a large family of carbs, which vary mostly in what type of choke is used (manul, electric automatic, water automatic), whether or not it has a power valve, how many floats it has, and whether the carb is "left-handed" or "right-handed". The DGV and DFV, for example, are the same carb except one is a mirror image of the other. The DFAV is the same as the DFV, except it has an automatic choke.
I suspect, esp. after looking at that photo, that you indeed have a DFAV.
A rebuild kit usually comprises nothing more than gaskets and a needle valve. Sometimes there are new mixture screws, too. There are lots of places that sell Weber rebuild kits, so use Google and find out. Redline and Pierce Manifolds are known good shops. Get the Haynes Weber manual, and you should be able to figure it out.
Do you have a 1.7, a 1.8, or a 2.0? Can you post a photo of the FI "shit" in the box? If you have a complete set of 2.0 parts, I may buy the contents of that box from you, since you don't seem interested in taking the club's previous advice on trying to get that to work instead.
FWIW, I bought a 1.7 with a 32/36 DFAV on it, and spent about a month trying to get it to right properly, and I've tuned lots of carbs over the years. I gave up and bought a pair of used IDFs.
You have a 32/36 DFEV. The E is for electric choke. The A would be for a water temperature controlled choke (not much use for us). I am also cursed with this carb by the PO. I just picked up a rebuild kit today at Bugformace in Sacramento. Guess what I will be doing this weekend? The carb can be made to work OK during warm weather, but is totally lame when the air temperature drops to below 50 degree F. If you go to www.redlineweber.com you will find a tech sections with some information on adjustment and bench assembly.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
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