Dudes:

Does anything need to be removed in order to get at everything to do this job?
The engine is in the car and after a quick look late last night, it didn't look like it'd be real easy to get up in there, unless something(s) were removed. Of course, I wasn't expecting this to be easy!

I've already printed out the tech articles and none of them mention removing anything before beginning.

Any comments/help/tips are/is appreciated.

Thanks,
Andy...

You don't need to remove anything except the valve covers.

Hope you are a contorsion artist when it comes to the intake valves......use a dime or something similar to turn the adjustor nuts (Craftsman round spark plug guage works great).

or a regular screwdriver.....

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Nov 28 2005, 12:16 PM)

or a regular screwdriver.....

Britt...have you done one yet?....you have very little clearance between the suspension ear and the valve adjustor (intakes). Even a "shorty screwdriver" is hard to make fit.

unfortunately ive had to do it twice.....maybe i missed something, but i dont remember any huge problem....

but maybe i was using a stubby screwdriver......

no i definately used a regular screwdriver.

remove the spark plugs (you probably already have this on the list) to enable you to turn the engine more easily.

knowing which way the rotor turns helps too (to go to the next cylinder you are going to adjust)

one way it's 1-4-3-2
the other way it's 1-2-3-4

Great, thanks for the replies fellas!
Andy

I like to leave the spark plugs in. That way you can feel the next piston coming up in a compression stroke while underneath the car. It will boil down to what you prefer and to some extent wehat method you use to adjust the valves.

BTW, a search of this site will provide you with LOTS of information about adjusting valves.

If you have problems finding TDC for any piston
DO NOT PUT NUTHIN DOWN THE SPARK PLUG HOLE THAT CAN DAMAGE SUMPIN OR BREAK OFF INSIDE.

I got one of them right angle screw drivers looks like an allen wrench but has slotted screw driver tip on it..
Britt ....... Oh never Mind. 1.7 motors are narrower and you may have been able to get a stubby in there. Anything with more stroke won't work.

QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Nov 29 2005, 07:24 AM)

Oh never Mind. 1.7 motors are narrower and you may have been able to get a stubby in there. Anything with more stroke won't work.

"1.7 motors are narrower"? Not on this planet. Forget all that BS, and do it the easy way. You can use a regular screwdriver, one about 1 foot long with a 1/4" blade. Hit the "classic threads" forum and scroll down to "The Cap'n's valve adjustment procedure". All you'll ever need to know about the subject. The Cap'n

I've used the Pelican tech article in the past. I like turning the engine by the rear wheel. (car jacked up on the driver's side with the transmission in 5th gear).

With this method of valve adjustment you can do the whole job while under the car in one shot after you mark both sides of the flywheel. I can do an adjustment in like 15 minutes now.

Tip: only adjust valves that are actually out of spec. If you measure and find things in spec, just move on to the next valve.

QUOTE (anthony @ Nov 29 2005, 08:48 AM)

I've used the Pelican tech article in the past. I like turning the engine by the rear wheel. (car jacked up on the driver's side with the transmission in 5th gear). With this method of valve adjustment you can do the whole job while under the car in one shot after you mark both sides of the flywheel. I can do an adjustment in like 15 minutes now. Tip: only adjust valves that are actually out of spec. If you measure and find things in spec, just move on to the next valve.

Doing it my way means you don't have to put it in gear, you don't need to grab the wheel and wrench it around, you don't have to mark the flywheel, and you don't care what cylinder you're on. In fact, you're not even on any particular cylinder, and you can do the adjustments without even having the distributor installed. The Cap'n

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 29 2005, 10:48 AM)

QUOTE (anthony @ Nov 29 2005, 08:48 AM) I've used the Pelican tech article in the past. I like turning the engine by the rear wheel. (car jacked up on the driver's side with the transmission in 5th gear). With this method of valve adjustment you can do the whole job while under the car in one shot after you mark both sides of the flywheel. I can do an adjustment in like 15 minutes now. Tip: only adjust valves that are actually out of spec. If you measure and find things in spec, just move on to the next valve. Doing it my way means you don't have to put it in gear, you don't need to grab the wheel and wrench it around, you don't have to mark the flywheel, and you don't care what cylinder you're on. In fact, you're not even on any particular cylinder, and you can do the adjustments without even having the distributor installed. The Cap'n

Britt's influence is spreading...........

Thanks Cap'n!!
YOU ROCK!!!