Full Version: Suspension Bushings
I may want to replace the worn out plastic control arm bushings in the front end. Should I use the needle bearing units or the solid bronze ones with the grease fitting?
Roller all the way. It makes NO sense to install a "hard" anything in the suspension.
I'm jaded. Nothing but roller for our cars. Once you have driven a roller car... compared to a plastic car.. life changes when it comes to driving.
B
I'm jaded. Nothing but roller for our cars. Once you have driven a roller car... compared to a plastic car.. life changes when it comes to driving.
B
Check the Classic Message Threads section.
Suspension Time
Rear Suspension Ear
Suspension Question
I hope these help.
-Rusty
Suspension Time
Rear Suspension Ear
Suspension Question
I hope these help.
-Rusty
Hey Mueller, if I get this insurance thing fixed quickly I may want a set of front & rears for the white car that B has.
Any in stock or available in the next 10 days or so. (I'm not sure how long it takes to finish the deal with the Ins. co.)
Any in stock or available in the next 10 days or so. (I'm not sure how long it takes to finish the deal with the Ins. co.)
I am also curious is there a wait time from when you would place on order for the bearings. My front end will be rebuilt soon and I plan on going that route.
Biased opinion here(you don't say?!?!)LOL
The needle bearings are a much more precise item, the interferance between the bearings and the shaft is held to within .0005 of an inch.
The needle bearings are closly related to the wheel bearings inside your front hubs (and these sure take a beating, wouldn't you say?
)
Bronze bushings are closer related to the bearings inside your engine. Sure they stand up to tremendouse forces, but you also have to remember that the oil is constantanly being pumped in between to create a layer to prevent damage. Yes, the bronze bushings do have grease fittings, but after a few cycles up and down the grease will no longer be able to protect the mating surfaces between the bronze and the metal sleeve (unless you had means to constantly supply new grease)
The needle bearings have an initial higher up front price, but in the event any of the bearings need to be replaced 5 years down the road, the bearings can be bought for a fraction of the kit price (~$15 bucks per housing).....the main cost in the kits is the housing that the main bearing fits into (made from Seamless tubing to prevent spliting) and the sleeves (made from a solid rod of 52100 steel, then it is hardened and centerless ground. How hard?, about the same hardness as the big ball bearings inside a CV joint)
Front and rear kits are in stock...(I'm out of town from tommorow until next Thrusday)
The needle bearings are a much more precise item, the interferance between the bearings and the shaft is held to within .0005 of an inch.
The needle bearings are closly related to the wheel bearings inside your front hubs (and these sure take a beating, wouldn't you say?
)Bronze bushings are closer related to the bearings inside your engine. Sure they stand up to tremendouse forces, but you also have to remember that the oil is constantanly being pumped in between to create a layer to prevent damage. Yes, the bronze bushings do have grease fittings, but after a few cycles up and down the grease will no longer be able to protect the mating surfaces between the bronze and the metal sleeve (unless you had means to constantly supply new grease)
The needle bearings have an initial higher up front price, but in the event any of the bearings need to be replaced 5 years down the road, the bearings can be bought for a fraction of the kit price (~$15 bucks per housing).....the main cost in the kits is the housing that the main bearing fits into (made from Seamless tubing to prevent spliting) and the sleeves (made from a solid rod of 52100 steel, then it is hardened and centerless ground. How hard?, about the same hardness as the big ball bearings inside a CV joint)
Front and rear kits are in stock...(I'm out of town from tommorow until next Thrusday)
QUOTE(Mueller @ Aug 19 2003, 02:50 PM)
...made from a solid rod of 52100 steel, then it is hardened and centerless ground.
sorry - slightly off-topic -
what exactly does 'centerless ground' mean ? i've seen it used for years, i know it's A Good Thing - but i have no idea what it means - exactly.
Rich,
Centerless Grinding
http://www.efunda.com/processes/machining/...ss_grinding.gif
Instead of holding the material in the middle (axis) the motion to turn is by means of a roller.
Centerless Grinding
http://www.efunda.com/processes/machining/...ss_grinding.gif
Instead of holding the material in the middle (axis) the motion to turn is by means of a roller.
you use the "through-feed" process?
Sean,
I don't personally do the grinding, I have a shop that speciallizes in this material do the sleeves, I don't have that kind of capital to spend on equipment
I don't personally do the grinding, I have a shop that speciallizes in this material do the sleeves, I don't have that kind of capital to spend on equipment
OK, how 'bout this?
Your product is done in the "through-feed" process?
Your product is done in the "through-feed" process?
thru-feed would be the correct choice !!!
The housing are turned the traditional way on a lathe (bar-feed CNC)
If your 951 is totalled, someone in the classifieds is looking for some phonedials, not sure if you have them or are buying the car back.
The housing are turned the traditional way on a lathe (bar-feed CNC)
If your 951 is totalled, someone in the classifieds is looking for some phonedials, not sure if you have them or are buying the car back.
my car had fuchs, but I took them off for the 914-6 (16x8's for the front) and put on some boxster S rims.
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