Billet Dynalite Single

and

Stock Car Products - Brakes

They list the prices and the weights of the parts...not too bad.

I called Wilwood today and spoke with a tech, I asked for 3D models of some of thier parts Denied !!!!!

I don't know why, this is very common in the semiconductor/mechanical world to offer parts in DXF or IGES or other solidmodeling formats.
It makes the job of the designer much easier and sometimes will sway us in what part or manufacture to use.

If you get the calipers, any chance I can borrow them for a few days?

Hey Mike, If you do come up with a way to bolt Wilwood Billet sigles calipers to 914/4 front and rear, put me down for a set.

Mike T

Mr Mueller, are you building race car or street car ??

Have you seen the topic about calipers in the other BB ? \"Anyone using this brake kit?\"

What do you think about dust seals ?? Do we need them like Bill Verburg says ?? Or can we use Wilwood calipers on street ??

Hey Timo,

I read that article, thanks.....
Some of it was amusing:
"bigger front brakes will cause more heat build up on the rear brakes" What ?!?!?


I've spoke to a few different Wilwood engineers, "off the record", dust seals are not 100% needed for a street car unless one would put 100k + miles on a car and only replace the pads without ever inspecting the calipers. Personally, I don't think there is anything wrong with running these on the street, it all comes down to common sense and some responsibility on taking care of ones car.

There is one reason NOT to run these on these on the street, the possibility of more noise since the dust seal also serves to help "pull" the piston back so that the pad does not chatter on the rotor while spinning.

The pistons have O-rings which can be replaced, so the bore is protected, the only concern is that if the pads are worn too far, then yes, the piston will be exposed more to the elements....the solution?? Replace the pads before you have metal to metal contact

When it comes to brakes or anything else Porsche related, some people do not like any aftermarket items when it seems the factory did such a good job to start with.

This guy is not claiming his kit is better, it just offers a nice and more cost effective alternative to the Holy Grail (Big Reds or monster Mono-blocks)

I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel (or brake package, LOL) here, I'm just pointing out that for people like Paul or Tim, there are alternatives to these big 4 piston kits.

The more I look at them, i think the dual pistons that Paul wants are a neat idea. They cut down on weight and will not upset the balance of the braking system.

I have the bigger calipers (4 piston), but the more I look at the 2 piston, the more I like them. My calipers are not installed yet, so I can go either way. Considering I have brand new rebuild kits for my stock calipers, I should go that route to save time and money.

These new 2 piston calipers have two main advantages.....less weight and better heat dissapation compared to the factory caliper.

After reading what Brad said about needing bigger brakes, I guess it's more of a want, but if they are really not needed, why bother right now when there are more important things to focus on?!?!?

For the record, I do not plan on offer kits or anything like that, but I have no problem helping someone figure out if these will adapt to thier car.

Mike,

Thanks for looking out for me. I've been to the Wilwood website and seen the diagrams. I measured the bolt spacing on the spindle at approx. 3". (I measured it while on the car so it is not dead nuts on.) Also the distance from the bolt center to the outside edge of the caliper is also approx. 3". There is still about a 1/2" worth of clearance from the stock caliper to the inside of my 15" wheels.

I'd have to really have a good hard look at the caliper diagram and the spindle to see if it will bolt up and clear everything. But I'd have to pull the wheel off to see for sure.

Paul

Paul,

Stock /4 and early non-S 911 struts have a 3" spacing between the bolt holes. This new caliper has a 3.25" spacing.
This can be addressed a few ways, the easiest would be to fill in the Ø.39 mount holes and redrill for the correct 3" spacing. (this is done with 951 calipers quite frequently)


I want to say that you'd need a .22" spacer in order to line the caliper centerline with the rotor centerline.

I have no idea if the dimension for "C" is even remotely close without seeing and measureing a stock caliper and strut.

I looked at the "C" dimension and I think there is a problem, the caliper is too "short". Not enough room for the rotor.

Paul

cannot say I didn't try

oh well, i guess we are stuck with factory parts........

if you get bored (desperate, LOL), you can take a grinder and sandpaper to your stock caliper to remove any extra casting material

There has to be a way to drill some holes in it somewhere to remove some weight.

I could...
Mill off some pad material
Drill the center of the mounting bolts out.
Don't use washers



Paul

Mike,
I just spent some time looking at the drawings I downloaded from Wilwood and looking at the rotor. I think you could machine a standoff adapter that would move the caliper out to center it on the rotor.

But the pad on the single piston Dynalites look smaller than the stock pad.

You'd really need to buy one and play with it but it could be done. I'd be willing to give it a try.

Paul

Paul.... look at the superlites..........many iterations. light and inexpensive...