I just removed my fresh air box and the brushes seem to have melted all other parts of the motor look fine. Is it possible to get new brushes and or rebuild the motor?

Thanks,
Dan

If you just want brushes you might try someone local to you that rebuilds motors and alternators. Take the fresh air motor with you and they might be able to match up replacement brushes that fit.

Sure is possible for rebuild, Not sure of new brushes, but a motor repair shop is a good bet. I have cannabilized spares for parts. Be sure to lubricate both bearings (top and bottom) also.

Then the best thing to do is before you put it back, is add a bug screen between the intake and the cowl louvers. The stock screen (only on later cars, early had none) is much too course, and allows fan clogging insects,and pine needles to get in. So go get some aluminum window screen (don't use the nylon, it wont last long) clean it and paint it (I choose gloss black) then fit it between the box and the cowl. This will solve the clogged /flooded fan problem for good.

be sure that the seal on top of the fan intake is good, and water tight to the body. test it after install (but before you put the gas tank back) with water, to make sure water from the outside does not rundown the outside of the air box from the cowl, else you will have wet feet and rust problems (sure the water does drain out the pan of the car, but it tends to soak in the gas tank felt pads, and rust the tank from the outside in, hence it is important to have a water tight trunk, also check the wipers while you are at it. They can be dissasembled and lubed, and resealed. Make sure no one in the past adjusted the wiper shaft "stickout" length too low. If the top of the shaft bushing is below the "water level' of the little dished wiper "wells" (design flaw!!) then the water will leak on down them. removing lube, and rusting the shafts. besure to paint any bare spots on the outside of the gas tank (where the pads sit) and if the pad nearest the brake resovoir is suspected of being brake fluid soaked, be sure to wash it well (and dry it) Replace the rubber gas tank hoses, use smooth hose clamps. besure the seam on either side of the cowl is water sealed (a new plastic strip is cheap, and I would clean up and paint any rust and add sealer under the strip. (located at bottom of windshield post)

Thats my to do list for the front trunk when the gas tank is out.

good luck.

Damn that one hell of a list for "while your in there" But I have to agree with all of it.

Thank you gentlemen.


I just wanted to get my defroster working now look at all the work I have...

The fresh air fan doesn't do much for the defroster. That pumps in cold fresh air, not warm air. Warm air defrosts/defogs better--so you leave the fresh air fan off for defrosting.

There's a thread on the "little winky" board (excuse the Z-ism) on the Pelican site; it's on the 911 Tech BBS section I believe. Someone went and rebuilt the motor in their fresh-air blower recently, and took pics. Their fresh-air blower is the same as or at least is very similar to ours.

--DD

Has anyone adapted a more modern blower, like from a Honda or something that actually moves some air when it works?

New motors are available, the last time I sold one it was in the $125 range IIRC.

No need for modern blower, the stock one works great if in good condition, make sure it turns freely, and is getting full voltage, good ground.

QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ Dec 7 2005, 02:03 PM)

The fresh air fan doesn't do much for the defroster. That pumps in cold fresh air, not warm air. Warm air defrosts/defogs better--so you leave the fresh air fan off for defrosting.

I've always had better luck defrosting the window with cold air (AC) then with warm air.