I have a Speedaire Air Compressor, I just replaced the cylinder head due to the valves were bad.

Now, when I turn the compressor on, the pressure goes up to 140lbs, once its reaches 140lbs, the compressor automatically shuts off. The Bleed Off Valve then bleeds off down to 95lbs which then turns the compressor automatically on returning it up to the 140lbs.

If I turn the compressor switch off at the 140lbs, the Bleed Off Valves bleeds the pressure down to 120lbs and stops there.

My understanding is that the compressor should shut off at 125lbs, then once the pressure drops to 95lbs, it would kick back on. The only thing that should cause the pressure to drop from the 125lbs is when it is being drawn down by use of air tools not the Bleed Off Valve.

Any Suggestions?

Another Picture:

Another;

yet again;

again;

Last one;

You need a new pressure switch if the tank safety relief valve is opening. It should not go over about 125 psi

the regulator is adjustable. There are 2 relays in the controler one to shut it off and one to turn it on. Make it shut itself off sooner.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

I'd pull it apart and make sure everything is clean, the points and such...
Hi Joe (permagrin)
I think that's great... "perma-grin"
or maybe i'm just too high!
Where does "compressor oil" go?

The pressure switch is adjustable, to a point, but it may be spent.

I doubt its actually the bleed valve that's causing the probem. It likely that the safety is tripping at pressures near 140, and they don't reset , or reset at a low pressure, hence your symptoms.

What I was thinking (which could very well be wrong) is that the pressure in the tank hits 140lbs, actually 125lbs now that I've adjusted the contact, which then pushes the check valve in the closed position shutting off the flow from the cylinders, forcing a blast of air through the smaller copper line which then trips the contact, which would then shut down the electric motor. But, the valve is staying open, which bleeds all the air out of the tank until it hits 95lbs, which then starts the electric motor and drives the cylinders, and fills the tank up again.

you need a new regulator.

The valves can be bought at harbor freight, and sears.

It happens, get a new one, dont try to fix it...it will blow...

A valve is cheap, it will last quite a few years...

Keep it clean from now on, change the air filter more often...change the oil more often...

rich

I've taken the valve apart a number of times, there is a round disc, about the size of a dime, that has a washer with a coller and a spring that pushes the disc. One time, I noticed that the disc was sitting at a slight angle, could that disc be worn out? and maybe getting stuck, not allowing the disc to return to its normal position which then allows all the air to escape???

QUOTE

r_towle Posted on Dec 14 2005, 07:46 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- you need a new regulator. The valves can be bought at harbor freight, and sears. It happens, get a new one, dont try to fix it...it will blow... A valve is cheap, it will last quite a few years... Keep it clean from now on, change the air filter more often...change the oil more often... rich

Is this the regulator? The T Valve?

QUOTE

r_towle Posted on Dec 14 2005, 07:46 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- you need a new regulator. The valves can be bought at harbor freight, and sears. It happens, get a new one, dont try to fix it...it will blow... A valve is cheap, it will last quite a few years... Keep it clean from now on, change the air filter more often...change the oil more often... rich

My oil and water trap are further down line, I did notice that the 1/2" line that runs from the cylinder head to the t valve sure gets oily, maybe too oily?

QUOTE (Lou W @ Dec 14 2005, 01:32 AM)

again;

This is your pressure regulator switch.

Do not try to rebuild...its time for a new one.


Rich

That did not work.

The pressure regulator switch is the on off switch with the pressure guage, the electrics etc...

Get a new one at home depot..they are cheap.
If it gets to much pressure, you go boom...

The entire unit comes together...all electrics

rich

QUOTE

r_towle Posted on Dec 14 2005, 08:39 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That did not work. The pressure regulator switch is the on off switch with the pressure guage, the electrics etc... Get a new one at home depot..they are cheap. If it gets to much pressure, you go boom... The entire unit comes together...all electrics rich

Ok, Thanks, Lou

FYI,

It was the Pressure Valve. It works great now that it is replaced. I was told by the repair shop that I bought the Valve from, that they get sticky from carbon and oil build up and sometimes they need to be cleaned or replced. He also stated that my theory on how the switch work was wrong, the relays control the pressure, and that the Pressure Valve releases the pressure from the line that runs from the cylinders to the tank, so that its easier on the compressor to start up again.

Thank you all for your help on the diagonsis.

The brass part that screws into the tank should be a check valve. The safety would be by itself. The line going to the heads and pressure switch is called an unloader. When the pressure switch contacts kill the motor, they also relieve the pressure on the heads so it can start unloaded.

I screwed around with these parts on the biggest Unit Home Depot had. Then I got pissed off and bought a big ass Emglo unit. Got tired of waiting for pressure on power tools.