Could someone explain to me the measurements that are required when you put a brace in to weld up and fix the longs (winter project)
I looked in the 914 info...I cant really make out the measurements I was thinking were needed...
I dont know where to measure from/to.
Also, could some of you guys post pics of the door bracing brackets you have used...I need to make something...just need a direction to head...
Thanx very much.
Rich
Full Version: Door Bracing question
I just used a piece of 2.5" square tubing
On the rear, I used the stock striker plate (without the rubber) and at the front I made a 3mm plate that bolted to the top door hinge
Cut the tubing to size to snugly fit between the two and welded it in
I measured the space between the top of the targa hoop and the windshield frame to make sure the gap was ok before I made the brace
rear, using stock striker plate
front, top door hinge
sorry, can't find a good total width shot...
before you weld the bar to the plates make sure you can access the screws/bolts to remove the bar
On the rear, I used the stock striker plate (without the rubber) and at the front I made a 3mm plate that bolted to the top door hinge
Cut the tubing to size to snugly fit between the two and welded it in
I measured the space between the top of the targa hoop and the windshield frame to make sure the gap was ok before I made the brace
rear, using stock striker plate
front, top door hinge
sorry, can't find a good total width shot...
before you weld the bar to the plates make sure you can access the screws/bolts to remove the bar
awesome,
I still need more data..
First problem is that when I jack using the normal jack post, passenger side (surprised) the door gap on the bottom of the door closes up...
It is to the point that the gap at the bottom of the door is close to rubbing...
So, I have no good baseline to deal with...I need to open up the bottom a little bit...
Then where is this measurement at the targa top measured from and to...
Rich
I still need more data..
First problem is that when I jack using the normal jack post, passenger side (surprised) the door gap on the bottom of the door closes up...
It is to the point that the gap at the bottom of the door is close to rubbing...
So, I have no good baseline to deal with...I need to open up the bottom a little bit...
Then where is this measurement at the targa top measured from and to...
Rich
that was a great offer....but it was killing my connection...
Could you post just that page?
It slowed down to 1kb per minute it seemed...
Rich
Could you post just that page?
It slowed down to 1kb per minute it seemed...
Rich
| QUOTE (r_towle @ Dec 16 2005, 10:56 AM) |
| that was a great offer....but it was killing my connection... Could you post just that page? It slowed down to 1kb per minute it seemed... Rich |
It's not your connection. I don't have a T1 line at my house, and it's a huge PDF file.
Plus all of the lurkers out there hitting it at the same time.
I can't post the pict, I am not there.
reminded me of the old days....when i was just a wee lad, we had these little cards called modems...and we used to use them to call other computers....
yup...
Thanx, the detailed pics made the difference...
It says f is to the windshield flange....then the pic shows that it really is to the back side of that flange...
I saved it, thanx for that...
Rich
yup...
Thanx, the detailed pics made the difference...
It says f is to the windshield flange....then the pic shows that it really is to the back side of that flange...
I saved it, thanx for that...
Rich
Also do not have a picture with me.
but when we did our bolt in door brace bar, we made it to bolt into the 3 factory nuts for the door hinge. We also welded a nut onto the bar and put a threaded rod into the bar. Was easy to change the overall length by turning the thread longer or shorter. Allowed us to bolt it all in and then fine tune the gap by minute amounts and avoid shrinkage that I was worried about from welding.
our bar is completely bolt in... but more time to make up.
brant
but when we did our bolt in door brace bar, we made it to bolt into the 3 factory nuts for the door hinge. We also welded a nut onto the bar and put a threaded rod into the bar. Was easy to change the overall length by turning the thread longer or shorter. Allowed us to bolt it all in and then fine tune the gap by minute amounts and avoid shrinkage that I was worried about from welding.
our bar is completely bolt in... but more time to make up.
brant
helpful webpage. I will be doing this as well this winter.
brent
brent
| QUOTE (Jeroen @ Dec 16 2005, 11:11 AM) |
| go here and click the numbers... http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php |
we should probably put some info on that page (in BIG red letters) that tells people that they can click on the numbers and get a closeup picture of the area ...
Andy
| QUOTE (SirAndy @ Dec 17 2005, 12:27 AM) | ||
we should probably put some info on that page (in BIG red letters) that tells people that they can click on the numbers and get a closeup picture of the area ... |
Yeah... I guess so... thought it was obvious
Ha! I just had a look and it says so right on the page...
Ya dumb f#@%s should learn to read
Ya dumb f#@%s should learn to read
| QUOTE (Jeroen @ Dec 16 2005, 05:26 PM) |
| Ha! I just had a look and it says so right on the page... Ya dumb f#@%s should learn to read |
yeah, but it's not in BIG RED LETTERS!!!!
Andy
I made an A-Frame from gas pipe using a tubing notcher. The front bolts to the door hinge mounts, the rear to the striker plate. The strike plate end has a treaded rod and jam nuts. I measured the door gap I wanted using big ratchet straps to adjust the body together. Install, and crank in the measurements.
Rich, just remember 25 1/8" from the rear edge of the winshield frame to the front edge of the targa. Metal to metal at the corners.
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