...keep me busy for a day or 2.
Anyone having *any idea* about how to color sand & buff
a paint job is welcome to come & give me a few pointers.
Left to my own devices, God knows what I'll end up with.

Wetsand with 1250 then with 1500 and finally with 2000. (I believe) use blocks for a little. Look at the differences and especially how the water moves/sits. get any area's not done. Dont sand to much with the 1250 or 1500.. you'll go through. 2000 will be unlikely to go through.. but still possible.

Then use your first grit of compund with the wool pad, Dont make it shiny, just use it like sandpaper ish. If you make it shiney (ie dry) to often you'll burn the paint. ie, use the compound plentifully.

2nd grit compound on foam pad. same thing about dryness.

3rd step is hand polish.



Thats what I remember from my class last term.

When switching sandpaper grits and polishing compounds, make sure you clean the car and your materials/tools very very thoroughly. 2000 paper with 1500 grit left over on the car is still 1500.

Talk is cheep....get your ass over here

Maybe I need to have a sand/buffing party....free beers.

Be careful on the seams and creases. These are the places you have the biggest risk of going through. I would recommend taping the seams and hard edges when using the power buffer and doing them by hand.

JP,

I did it to a bc/cc we did once on the black car.
what a pain in the a@@

whew....
took about 4 days total and had to respray a couple of panels too.

you sure you want to do this?
I choose not to spray the orange car myself and it was well worth the $

brant

just looked at your parts picture JP.

Exactly the same products I used.
diamond cut and swirl free.
I used the red and yellow-ish meguires pads too.
plus I used a wool pad as step one before the red/yellow

brant

Well, to get rid of the orange peel effect...

you need to color sand with 1000 grit or better paper...

use short strokes...not like you would think.
If you do end up with a piece of crap on the paper, you will only create a short scratch instead of a long one...thus why you need to use short strokes...

Use a new clean bondo squeagee to wipe off the area you are working on to check your progress at eliminating the peal.

Then, once done, you can go for the buffer...

The first grit is ussually 1500 and they go up from there...

use different wool pads for different compounds.
Clean the wool pad often with a screw driver while you run the buffer upside down...it works great.

The hot rod guys tell me 80 hours is normal for a complete job...

I was doing one panel at a time...about 2-3 hours per panel...that is all the way sanding to buffing to glazing...

I found that with the glazing...you need the car really really really really clean....

then you put the glazing on by hand and let it dry.....

you can try using the spongewheel for the glazing, but i had a better finish using a chamoise...

the glazing is the key step...
its either looks great, or you need to remove it and do it again...

The rest after you rid yourself of the peel is just chasing sanding marks...

If I was there, I would be happy to come help,,,,I think more of your local "friends" should come sand a panle for you...you could get it done much quicker.

Rich

QUOTE (r_towle @ Dec 28 2005, 08:23 PM)

The hot rod guys tell me 80 hours is normal for a complete job...

Took me 5 days to sand and one day to buff a VW bug.

I apply 3 heavy coats of clear on a car that will be colour sanded.
My body guy say he cuts the clear then sprays it again with clear before buffing.

Can you imagine paying someone to do it

done right the result is

Hey JP, why don't you practice on that ugly yellow one, before you buff out the pretty green, and primer one?




M

Glad to have ya back, Miles. You're the only one here who sounds as confused as I. I was gettin' pretty lonely at the bottom of the food chain.

Well, since we're down here together... wann' go see that gay cowboy movie everyone is ranting about?




M

That was "food chain", neither fruit chain nor daisy chain.

I've done half a fender.....this sux. I retreated to the puter room.

Well, there's always the Corona contingency.



M

QUOTE (redshift @ Dec 28 2005, 05:46 PM)

Well, there's always the Corona contingency. M

Iz'at a new novel from Robert Ludlum?

Hi JP,

I've color sanded and polished about 10 cars. Never again. It takes a special touch, and extreme patience to get right, and you will still be squatting, and peering at invisible marks in the paint for years to come. I have great respect for those with this skill, but I'd rather get a tatoo on my forehead than ever do it again.

Use a squeegee, and an oblique light source to show where the orange peel is still haunting you. Figure out a way to protect your hands...you will be sanding your skin off. And lastly, paint the car flat black with yellow flames and forget about it.

John www.ghiaspecialtiess.com

I am with John! Paint your car oblique!



Yes!


M

QUOTE (redshift @ Dec 28 2005, 06:46 PM)

Well, there's always the Corona contingency. M

What polished car?
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

Why are Polish & polish spelled the same?

make it shiney like this

Hay, nice, Sean, Some racin' stripes would be gud.
I have no imagination when it comes to this stuff.
What goes good with yellow...other than black?

Blue and Red aint bad either....

Bill P.

nuther yellow, blue, red....

how 'bout green?

very cool!

Bill , on the other hand, has entirely too much imagination

One side is to the point where it is ready for the 2nd stage
buff. Ain't perfect (or even close),but good enuff for a racecar.

Nice work JP..
looking REALLY good!

brant

Too bad you won't be able to drive it anymore. Better go buy a rusty tub and build a race car.