Hey all...I'vre gone thru about everything...all connections, wires, FI's etc. The center post in the distributor car was kind of a greenish color instead of nice copper. Probably should replace the cap right? Ok...what do I ask for? It's a stock 2.0 engine 1974.
Also...I got thinking about the fuel filter (see Pic). The one that's in there doesnt look anything like what I've seen online. Does it matter a lot? And one more thing...see pic of the square thing below the battery...what the heck is it?

Thanks!!
Roger D.

Here's that box below/behind the battery...Tell me what it is? What's the best source for parts? What is the best book I should get myself?

Roger D.

you REALLY need to get a manual

1st pic: fuel pressure regulator

2nd pic: ECU for the fuel injection (the brain)

Hi Roger,
first I'd get the Haynes Manual
it would show that your #1 pict is fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter should be behind a panel in the front trunk--
#2 pic is the computer---

grab a haynes and a

Gary

QUOTE (gary gartner @ Dec 28 2005, 04:57 PM)

Hi Roger, first I'd get the Haynes Manual it would show that your #1 pict is fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter should be behind a panel in the front trunk-- #2 pic is the computer--- grab a haynes and a Gary

'74, fuel filter and pump should be below the battery unless moved....

have you added more fuel to the tank to see if it still cuts out in left turns???

Thanks, Mueller,
realized my 75 2.0 just 'might be' different F/F location right after I hit send---

FF is under the tank on a 75. Go in through the access plate in the front trunk, remove the 2 6mm bolts that hold the pump to the cover, pull the pump out, there's the filter. Special filter for 74-75, fits bugs, busses, and many vanagons. BTW, the adjustment screw appears to be AWFULLY far in on the FPR. Might have the pressure way too high. The Cap'n

QUOTE

'74, fuel filter and pump should be below the battery unless moved....

While it would be technically "below" the battery, It is UNDER the car. The fuel pump and filter are tucked up in front of the Passenger side engine mount. There is/was a sheet metal bracket that would hold the squarish fuel filter. The fuel pump (also located in this area) was mounted with two rubber isolation mounts and a metal strap. The rubber isolation mounts are known to seperate over time and the fuel pump may be hanging in this area instead of being mounted.

The weight of the fuel pump + going around a turn may be enough to pinch off the feed line. If you have never seen one before, be prepared, the 1974 914 fuel pump has 3 nipples on it and a bunch of hoses and clamps. (Yes, they came that way).

I don't remember seeing your response to my questions:

Does the car start "missing" immediately when you turn, or does it take a little time for the car to start acting up? Can you make it act up while parked and the steering wheel turned or does the car have to be in motion?

Roger,

Make sure that you have disconected the battery, and using an electronics cleaner, such as Blue Shower, or even WD-40 as a whetting agent, used a bore brush to clean all the relay sockets, and all the connections from the harnesses, to the relay box.

The accessory wires on the hot terminal of your battery.. clean all terminals, and tighten.

Wires under dash. Check that nothing is skinned, and grounding.. make sure nothing hangs down.

BROWN WIRES EVERYWHERE: All brown wires, globally (as global as a 914 can be) are grounds. Make sure all of these are not only tight, but actually grounding.

MPS: The wires going to the MPS, condition, termination, connection.. don't just do a visual of anything... take it apart. Not the MPS! The connector.

Do one of these at a time, or all at once. If you do these things, you will know the condition of all the most notorious systems, it will work as it's supposed to.

If you have a manual to determine what you are looking at, and a couple known good ROUND RELAYS (hint: if your headlamps raise and lower properly, you have 2 known good ones for testing) you can do all this in an hour.

My story: I chased a stalling problem, that sometimes seemed to be a 'miss'. Tiny amounts of washboard road, OR a turn to the left could trigger the miss, but only a sharp uneven feature in teh road would stall it..

2 and a half years...

It was the fuel pump relay socket, not getting reliable power... a relay can cycle on/off over 500 times per minute, and sometimes, it's sound mimiced the fuel pump. The weight of the voltage regulator on the box, during medium G lefts, and while bouncing over shitty road, deflected that relay socket, and +trace just enough to make it flutter, and sputter.

You might also rebuild, or purchase a nice relay box.. easy, inexpensive, and better than tranqulizers.

Sorry I got windy. I just wanted to type alot.

Oh, and since you are renewing alot of the ground connections, replace the tranny ground strap, if it's even dirty. It feels good!

OH AND IT COULD BE A BAD TACHOMETER OR TACH WIRE


M

QUOTE (redshift @ Dec 28 2005, 04:49 PM)

Roger, Make sure that you have disconected the battery, and using an electronics cleaner, such as Blue Shower, or even WD-40 as a whetting agent, used a bore brush to clean all the relay sockets, and all the connections from the harnesses, to the relay box. The accessory wires on the hot terminal of your battery.. clean all terminals, and tighten. Wires under dash. Check that nothing is skinned, and grounding.. make sure nothing hangs down. BROWN WIRES EVERYWHERE: All brown wires, globally (as global as a 914 can be) are grounds. Make sure all of these are not only tight, but actually grounding. MPS: The wires going to the MPS, condition, termination, connection.. don't just do a visual of anything... take it apart. Not the MPS! The connector. Do one of these at a time, or all at once. If you do these things, you will know the condition of all the most notorious systems, it will work as it's supposed to. If you have a manual to determine what you are looking at, and a couple known good ROUND RELAYS (hint: if your headlamps raise and lower properly, you have 2 known good ones for testing) you can do all this in an hour. My story: I chased a stalling problem, that sometimes seemed to be a 'miss'. Tiny amounts of washboard road, OR a turn to the left could trigger the miss, but only a sharp uneven feature in teh road would stall it.. 2 and a half years... It was the fuel pump relay socket, not getting reliable power... a relay can cycle on/off over 500 times per minute, and sometimes, it's sound mimiced the fuel pump. The weight of the voltage regulator on the box, during medium G lefts, and while bouncing over shitty road, deflected that relay socket, and +trace just enough to make it flutter, and sputter. You might also rebuild, or purchase a nice relay box.. easy, inexpensive, and better than tranqulizers. Sorry I got windy. I just wanted to type alot. Oh, and since you are renewing alot of the ground connections, replace the tranny ground strap, if it's even dirty. It feels good! M

AAAHHhhhhhh all's well in the werld again. Good night Mrs. Robinson, and thanks for all the fish

Sorry to sound so stupid guys. Im learning. No...I havent filled 'er with fresh fuel yet. And yes...it cuts out BAD immediately upon entering left turn...no wait or nothing just right now!! The funny thing is..I tried just coasting around a left turn without power and it was fine. The next time I tried it under power...she cut out again.
More to come....

CHT wire... or fuel pump thingy... like I said.. because the motor doesn't need more pressure to coast, but it does to Partially Open Throttle.

Go on now! Git! Hurry back!

You too Scotty!

Roger, can you post a picture of your key ring? Is it heavy?



M

hey redshit..oops.. I mean redshift...here's a pic of my key ring..

aaawww geeezz!! I meant this one of course...

Ah Roger - I think he was being straight. Ignition switches are a common point of failure. Heavy key ring, lateral accelleration, tugging a marginal switch the wrong way ...

It's probably been said before.













Help us!!!!!

QUOTE (Roger D. @ Dec 28 2005, 05:57 PM)

hey redshit..oops.. I mean redshift...here's a pic of my key ring..

Don't do what you are doing.

Please...

QUOTE

Ignition switches are a common point of failure. Heavy key ring, lateral accelleration, tugging a marginal switch the wrong way ...

This is a valid point. I have taken it for granted over the last 20+ years. In my Porsches (all of them) I only have a key and a very light fob for a keyring.

I remember someone (whom I trust dearly) tell me not to hang much weight on those ignition switches as it would cause them to fail......

just my $0.02...

That's cool. Call it a typo if you want. Get over it. I already apologized for my ignorance about 914's. I didnt come here to be the butt of somebody's immature humor. I've owned Porsche's longer than many of you are old. I don't know all the in's and out's that you guys do about these cars. That's why I came here. I've just asked for a little help. You all responded beyond expectation. Thank you!! I want to be part of the group but Im too old to play games and I don't think smart remarks are in order. I've already got about 60 responses to digest in reference to my car's problem. And...it's totally tacky to send me private messages telling me to keep quiet. Anyway, I appreciate all of the help and look forward to learning more.

Thanks,
Roger D.

P.S. Im no mechanic but I can drive the hell out of a Porsche

Back to the topic at hand,

If the 'miss' or cutout is instantaneous when turning left, it sounds like something is shorting out electrically, or there is a massive vacuum leak only when turning left.

There is a small wire that comes through the engine tin on the Passenger side near spark plug #3 (passenger side rear plug). This is the Cylinder Head Temp (CHT) wire. This wire can easily short out if the insulation is broken. It can also short at the point where the spade connector ties into the main harness. Check to make sure they don't bump into bare metal anywhere.

Can you post any other pics of your engine bay?

I'll get some more pics....any particular area of the engine bay?

We'll start with this picture, and paint arrows..




M

That's a nice shot...shows everything pretty clearly.

I was thinking:

1. an overall (the best you can do)
2. one of the coil, it's mount and wires
3. The relay board area (with cover removed)

It may help if the air cleaner and it's support were removed for the overall pic. I think they are both held in with the spring clamps.

Your pics of the Fuel pressure regulator and the ECU were nice and clear.

It looked like your battery was fastened down securely from your pic of the ECU. It really seems like it is electric and not fuel pressure related since the 'miss' is instantaneous and not delayed.

Does the engine rock much when running and the throttle is 'blipped'? (Have you considered only making right hand turns? Just kidding)

Redshift,

DAMN that's a nice looking engine.

I know I've seen that same pic a million times on this site.....

Here's another nice shot: Your mother dresses you funny.

if you want help, deal with the childish humor..


Yellow circle, wire very close to spark plug hole for number 3, brownish (usually) sheathed connector, paddle end leads to CHT (cyl head temp sensor, TS2) that screws into head #3. The wire can go bad at the sensor, or get skinned on the tin.


M

This pic usually stars in Geoffey's vacuum "wtf is this shit" help thingy.

Hey John, you'd think that pressure at partial open throttle isn't such a big deal, but it seems if the pump is shut off, it stumbles right now with barely a touch of the throttle.. riding along, then you are rolling in gear...

These things take the 30lbs they call for at all times it seems.

Roger, check the routing of your spark plug wires, before you do anything else... if they are laying on anything metal, support them with ties, and/or reroute them away from other electrical stuff... and the engine.

Intake runners aren't much of a problem. If you don't have newish spark wires, get some good ones.



M

Before you go taking anymore hard turns, please look at this area here. It doesn't look good to me.

The chassis is flexing, and pinching the fuel lines.


M