I R & R'd the engine for a tune up, some repairs and a new exhuast. But now it won't run. It starts and runs about 15 seconds. Touch the throttle and it dies.

I have all the info in the world. Factory, Haynes and Brad's D-Jet info. I've double checked everything.

1. Pulled valve covers and made sure the I didn't do a 180 on the dizzy. Double checked the adjustment.
2. Pulled the spark plugs and double checked the gap.
3. Checked both the LT and HT on the coil. Everything measured fine.
4. Reset the points and measured the dwell, its 45.
5. Set the timing the best I could without being able to get to 3500 rpms. Its TDC at idle.
6. Now on to fuel. I pulled the hose going into the fuel pressure regular. I had a good stream of fuel.
7. Next I mount the fuel gauge on the rail. 29 lbs.
8. Then I pull the dizzy to inspect the trigger points. I get an open / close signal on both sides.

So I reluctantly move on to the injectors. It seems they always weep for a bit after I take them out. So I hate doing this. I see flames. I go after the easiest one #1. Guess what, ZERO spray.
Next I do the ignition on clicking test to see if I'm getting a signal to the injectors. I bump the engine around with the starter. I only get clicking on 2 and 4. Both at seperate places in the dizzy rotation. Nothing on 1 and 3.

Which ones are supposed to click at the same time ?

So I think I'm down to the wires and connectors ? How do I go about testing from here ?

Thats after I check the harness for an obvious broken wire or connector.

I'm away from home and don't have my manuals but 1 and 4 together sounds familiar. If you get one pair clicking but not the other it suggests the trigger points but you have tested them already. It could be the harness. I broke a lead to the MPS by tugging on the wires rather than the plug. The copper broke but the jacket didn't so it looked ok but wasn't.

You can check the harness but removing the plug to the ECU. Use the haynes wiring diagram and find the right pairs for each side of the trigger points and test the opening and closing from there. If you have a helper have him or her wiggle the wires at the dizzy just to see if it is intermittent. While you are in there check continuity on the primary and secondary sides of the MPS coils. Should be very low resitance - if open you have a problem.

Steve, I had it backwards. 2 and 4 click. Nothing on 1 and 3. I went out and double checked.

Check your FI grounds.

The injector ones are on the top of the case, towards the rear passenger side....

I had this issue, I needed to take off that bolt, and clean both the connector and that spade plugs...it does get dirty.

Also, make sure your throttle position switch is clean inside.

Rich

BTW we are talking about d-jet here right? Trigger points don't exist on L-Jet?

time for webers, a triad linkage, a self regulated rotary fuel pump from cb, a mallory distributor... . jk. fi good, carbs bad.

OK. There are diagrams online so I can at least tell you what terminals to measure. I don't have my notes that give values but basicly you are looking for opens.

You can check the injectors, including the ground by measuring between pins 3,4,5,6 and ground. Should be very low resistance. Just to be sure, measure twice. Once to the block and once to the spade. If there is a difference that would be the contact resistance that Rich is talking about.

Measure the throttle points between 21 and 12 for one pair and 22 and 12 for the other

MPS is measured between 7 and 15 on one side and 8 and 10 on the other.

In all of the measurements wiggling the wires should not cause any change in the reading. If it does check for a break or partial break in the wire. Most likely place for a break is something that you took off on your RR.

Yes on the D-Jet.
No on the carbs. I'm thinking MEGASQUIRT on the 73 car that I have sitting in the back of the shop.
Carbs will go on the 6 that I put in my someday AX car. I have the 72 roller waiting for the time and $$$$. I have 3 kids that need to go to college first.

Thanks for the help.

They make a tool called a "noid light"
its nothing too fancy, just a lightbult in a little case.

you plug your fuel injector connector into the noid light.

then start the car and see the noid light flash everytime it receives power. its cheap really at around 20 bucks.

mine even has long cables and little suction cup so that you can stick it to the drivers window and see it flash while sitting in the car.

but the point is that its an easy way to eliminate the electrical side of the issue. If the noid light is flash... flash.. flashing while the car is idling, then you know your F.I. points and wiring harnes (and grounds) are good and its a fuel delivery issue.

sounds like thats probably not the case in your situation, but the noid light would at least help you narrow down exactly which cylinders have the problem.

brant

Sounds like bad grounds to me also.........

We'll never know. Super In Law pulled all the connections, except the grounds and cleaned everything. Started up and ran fine. Well almost, throttle positioner needs to be cleaned. I feel a little studder.

Just a note of something I found. My 18 year old runs the piss out of both cars. Both cars the nuts on the intake manifolds were coming loose. Tightened both cars up. Man does that smooth things out.
By run the piss. I need to explain. All the side roads are still dirt or gravel. So they both get a constant rattling.

Putting studs on the all original 73 for the 16 year old to drive. He doesn't like it when the cars don't work. So he'll be a little easier on the dirt roads.

Cary:
Stop by here more often.
How's that 9eleben running?
I've got sumthin' here, lessee.......Is this it?...all them 9elebens look alike.

Hay, a good shot of me, too. 2 Guys slackin' in the background,
I'm on the left.

I'm around. Been real busy. Reformatted my store to be like New Seasons there in PDX. Coming along, but slow. Taking most my time.

The 911 is running great. Bedded down for the winter. The boys are driving the 914's. But I had 2 down at the same time and no time to fix. But Super In Law is over for a couple months. He stuck his nose to the grindstone and got them both back in business.

Robert (18) needs to run the driver a couple days then I'll adjust the CO.
Ryan (16) is taking over my all original 73 for a while. He's getting ready to wash and wax her as soon I make a couple adjustments.

Super In Law is starting to take apart the 72 rust bucket I bought for $250. Plus 3 extra gear boxes. 2 tail and one side shifter. Need to run to Missoula and buy some big plastic tubs to start boxing up the parts. All the soft parts are shot. But a complete 1.7 and 2 trunks full of stuff. I just found 2 brand new fog light grills.
Right now I'm at 5 teeners. The rust bucket needs to go. It's in the way.

I have a 73 to build into a bumble bee. Plus a 72 that I want to build to kick your ass. LOL. But No time or $$$ right. Its a great looking tub.

Good to talk to you. Back to work.

False alarm. The kid drove it to school and it died.

Almost certain "no fuel" again. I thnk I'll drop the engine again and check the harnesses at both ends. He pulled the throotle body and cleaned the grounds.