grasshopper
Jan 2 2006, 10:07 AM
ok, since i am planning on putting a six in my car, and selling my zenith carbs, i need to get one of my webber 40 IDA carbs fixed. One of the valves is badly frozen... i dont want to damage it to much, so I am trying to find someone who knows what they are doing. Thanks
Trekkor
Jan 2 2006, 12:02 PM
first soak it.
Post this in the garage...
KT
Aaron Cox
Jan 2 2006, 12:04 PM
QUOTE (trekkor @ Jan 2 2006, 11:02 AM) |
first soak it.
Post this in the garage...
KT |
*BING* paging Aadmin aaron....
Trekkor
Jan 2 2006, 12:09 PM
Only two minutes?
You're slipping
KT
Carl
Jan 2 2006, 02:11 PM
Barry,
Which valve is frozen? The throttle valve? Float valve? Accelerator pump? Can you put up any photos?
dmenche914
Jan 2 2006, 02:18 PM
don't soak it in carb cleaner until after you remove any plastic or rubber parts. Carb cleaner generally will destroy such parts.
If it is your float valve that is sticking, simply removing it, and cleaning it might help. Some valves hare all metal, some have rubber in them, you may just need a new valve if it is worn. be careful to set your fuel hieght correctly (done by spacers under teh valve, and / or bending the tab on the float. Anytime the float valve is exchanged, the fuel level need be checked and reset as needed.
good luck
grasshopper
Jan 2 2006, 05:08 PM
ok, here is a pic of what is stuck. My dad attempted to remove the two screws on it, and broke them off...
it is REALLY frozen... i have soaked it in carb cleaner with no success..
grasshopper
Jan 2 2006, 05:08 PM
the stuck valve
Aaron Cox
Jan 2 2006, 05:10 PM
aye! dont pry!!!! soak...dont force them.....
penetrating lube....
hope you didnt bend the shaft.......
webers are $$$$ dont screw em up
grasshopper
Jan 2 2006, 05:11 PM
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jan 2 2006, 03:10 PM) |
aye! dont pry!!!! soak...dont force them.....
penetrating lube....
hope you didnt bend the shaft.......
webers are $$$$ dont screw em up |
that is why i want someone who knows what they are doing to fix these
dmenche914
Jan 2 2006, 05:16 PM
Yee gads, water damage, and full of rust, yikes. Soak in penatrating oil is past that point as the screws have been sheared off, suggest they get drilled out, but consider whata replacemnt shaft will cost, and if you drill oversize, how to replace new screws in bigger hole.
This looks to require a bit of machining work to take apart . Use care, the shafts if you can keep it, must not be bent, so support it if at all possible when drilling out the screws.
PS the screws are generally peened over at the factory )thats what i have seen on most carbs) So you need to grind away teh backside of the screw some, before attempting to turn them out.
sixnotfour
Jan 2 2006, 05:18 PM
WD.40,Kroil,LPS any penetrating oil , spray it a bunch,
Take the tops off see what the float bowls look like , if these have been filled with water they could be a challenge to make usable. Also take out all the jets spray through all passages to see if they are clear and not full of corrosion.
Beiker charges about 950.00 to rebush,replate and rebuild.
Keep your Zeniths untill you are sure these are gonna work.
grasshopper
Jan 2 2006, 05:25 PM
i know where i can get a shaft and valve for about $30..... so iam not worried about damaging them...i was just trying to get it out with as little damage as possible...
r_towle
Jan 2 2006, 06:21 PM
you say you soaked them in carb cleaner...
Show a pic of the carb cleaner...
I would dunk them in the high test carb cleaner...
It will help to dislodge that shaft and let it rotate
Rich
grasshopper
Jan 2 2006, 06:27 PM
i dont have a pic of the cleaner, i dont feel like walking to the garage right now...
it was just some cheap carb cleaner i got at autozone....
Carl
Jan 2 2006, 07:51 PM
QUOTE (grasshopper @ Jan 2 2006, 03:25 PM) |
i know where i can get a shaft and valve for about $30..... so iam not worried about damaging them...i was just trying to get it out with as little damage as possible... |
Be careful about bending or scarring the throttle shaft because it may crack or distort the shaft opening in the carb body when you remove it. They may have to be rebushed anyway but you don't want to worsen the condition of the body in the process.
Twystd1
Jan 2 2006, 08:27 PM
I will probably get shot for this.... BUT....
I have freed up a bunch of these in my time...
Heres what I do...
I soak em for a couple of days in anti freeze. Don't ask me how or why it works... I DUNNO...
The longer... the better.
Old anti freeze... New anti freeze.. Cheap anti freeze.. Don't matter.
Old guys in England taught me that. Works VERY WELL. (for me)
Then I pull em out, air nozzle the hell out of em, and spray the throttle bores with PB blaster or Kroil.
Now the trick is to get the shafts to move... They only have to move a couple of thou to get the ball rolling.
I tap the throttle butterflys with a stick or dowel and very small hammer until the throttle starts to move... then I just keep wiggling them back and forth with my hand and a bit "O" help with the wood dowel until they are free.
As far as getting the blade screws out... if the come out great. if not.. Drill em.
You already have extra parts for thirty bucks.. Use em..!!!!!
THEN rebush and rebuild.
I will tell you that if you have sloppy throttle shaft bores. Your carbs will be a nightmare to set up. Unless you machine and bush the shaft bores.
Lastly. If ya re-build em yourself. You can't make a carb "TOO CLEAN".
And ya can't make a mating surface "TOO SQUARE".
OVERKILL in all aspects of carb building is a must.
Carbs have to be impeccable to work EXACTLY right.
Thats my .02 worth...
Twystd1
grasshopper
Jan 2 2006, 08:37 PM
lots of great responses guys!! i'm going to soak them all day tomorrow and rebuild the other one while I wait.... the other one doesn't look much better... the reason they are all corroded, is because they sat in the back seat of a 70 911 targa for 15 years outside, with a broken rear window
the ass dragger ruins it again
dmenche914
Jan 2 2006, 09:28 PM
Agree 100000% clean, clean clean, and make sure the mating surfaces are dead flat (they warp over the years, and become un-flat) use a good straight edge, with light as a backdrop, line it on the edge to be cheked, and see if light makes it thru or not. Or set on a flat plat, and see if a thin feeler gage can fit under or not.
otto
Jan 3 2006, 12:40 PM
If all else fails, send them to Eurometrix. They have been re-bushing/re-shafting my carbs and throttle bodies for years. Ask for Matt @ 978 448 2557
Al Meredith
Jan 3 2006, 08:08 PM
Barry, I sent a set to Motor Meister and they turned out great. I think they charged me $850 for two and they say they run them in on a mule engine to pre-balance. Al
Trekkor
Jan 3 2006, 08:35 PM
Before everybody jumps on MM, I'm just glad to hear some positive feedback about them.
Most of the bad words about them are hearsay rather than personal experience, right?
KT
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please
click here.