Pulled the rocker assemblies off on Saturday to inspect things and reassembled it with the hopes of ridding a lound tapping that has been around for awhile.

changed the swivel feet out for new solid adjusting screws as a test, and put it back together.

10 pounds on the rocker assembly nuts

valves to .006


started it up and it ran significantly quieter until i drove it around for a day or two.
then Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap again.

I keep looking out my back window expectiing to see a large black bird pecking at the engine lid.

something is moving around but i have no idea what, and i need to figure it out before the new exhuast gets put on in case i have to end up pulling the heads.

what pushrods?
cro - mo or AL?

didja get the ends into the pushrods all the way?


just did this too....

stock pushrods.


I had just shimmed the stands when i put the swivels on. (shhh)

Thought i'd switch them out to solid screws again as a test to see if it would run quieter.

QUOTE (brer @ Jan 2 2006, 09:59 AM)

stock pushrods. I had just shimmed the stands when i put the swivels on. (shhh) Thought i'd switch them out to solid screws again as a test to see if it would run quieter.

your a masochist.... doing it in the car?

my motor require 0.060 shims and shorter pushrods...... (thanks again joe sharp)


so... you sure all of em were torqued? maybe a jam nut got loose....

It has only ran quiet, like another 1.7 i've heard recently, one time.


that was with solid spacers, my original rocker arms and the brand new shafts that i got with the swivel feet assemblies.
I had overtightened the assembly nuts on that instance as well. oops. ran quiet until the next day when i put the swivel feet on.


I think i'll be trying to recreate that moment for the rest of my life.

yep, all torqued. Check it twice.
checked clearances twice.

pulled plugs and checked them out.


Question: the wire bail rides under the pushrods right?

which shims did you use?

.030

I had been advised that the motor was put together without head gaskets.

I know I know.
pull the motor and set the geometry.

I wish i had that much time right now.


But having it run quiet and then get tappy again seems odd to me.

QUOTE (brer @ Jan 2 2006, 10:11 AM)

I know I know. pull the motor and set the geometry. I wish i had that much time right now.

ive the adjustable pushrod youll need....

joe sharp helped me... and it only took an hour or so to figure it out.

when are you getting your car painted again?

or...

when are you going to be in my neck of the woods.

QUOTE (brer @ Jan 2 2006, 10:14 AM)

when are you getting your car painted again? or... when are you going to be in my neck of the woods.

not for a while.....

the wire goes under the push rods.

heres a few things I've had happen over the last 200k miles on my '76.

1. I had a rocker arm stud pull. before the stud actually came out, a mound of metal began to build up that allowed the shaft mount thingie to pivot.

2. the shaft mount thingie (the "C" shaped thing) can be incorrectly mounted rotated 180o such that a narrower surface is contacting the head. this may allow the mount to pivot.

3. If you ever drove the car with negative lash clearance then oil cant be forced into to lubricate the rocker arm. Then the shaft and arm will rapidly wear creating excess clearance which could cause noise. If this happened you may be able to flip the shaft over to have the best surface facing inwards.

4. before my car dropped a valve seat, it made noise similar to excess lash. that went on for a couple weeks. when the seat actually drops, guaranteed it will get your attention.

5. you say your car makes noise even with swivel feet. that would seem to rule out the solid adjusters. but, just in case you got some of those after market ones - they are pure crap. the wear surface will chip up in no time. better to just to sandpaper a fresh surface on your oe ones. good luck