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billd
My steering wheel just developed a significant wobble. It moves several degrees left/right and up/down. The bolt holding the wheel to the splines is tight. The splined shaft itself is moving. I suspect that the bearings that hold the steering shaft have loosened up. Does anyone know the procedure for tightening them?
r_towle
if you remove the steering wheel and column switches, you will see a crush type bearing that is fitted around the shaft.

It does wear out. it gets replaced, there are no adjustments.

Also look at your wheel bearing and ball joints to make sure that the problem is truely in the steering wheel.

pelican parts sell the crush type bushing.

Good luck.

Rich
TravisNeff
There are 4 allen bolts that hold the column to the tub right behind the dash. Check those first, you usually cat get a 1/2 turn on them and will reduce quite a bit of that wobble, then onto bearings.
URY914
Here is a pic. You can see where it is split..
Dr Evil
Do a search here or in the classics for the photo article that I posted on the steering anatomy. I don't remember what the article was called exactly, but it had good pics.
HTH
billd
I can't find the thread. I did a search with the topic "steering" and user "Dr Evil" on all forums.
Dr Evil
Well I'll be, I can't find it either. Then again, I suck at the search function to begin with. I'll repost the pics for you. biggrin.gif
Dr Evil
Here is a pic of the typical 4cyl steering column as viewed from the bottom. This is the unit removed without the steering wheel. You can easily notice the four bolt holes in the gold colored part where you would find the allen head bolts that hold this assembly underneath the dash. These would be a good place to check first for loose bolts.
Dr Evil
The single allen bolt in the collar is to keep the collar fast to the column.

If the previous does not help, then it may be time to remove your steering wheel and your turn signal assembly. I believe the nut for the wheel is 27mm. Once the wheel is removed the signal assy can be removed after it is unscrewed and unplugged. The plug is under the dash near the base of the collar. You should take out the ig switch as it is easy and possibly necessary. You should then be able to see down the shaft like in the pic. Notice the bearing around the shaft.
Dr Evil
At the stage above you should then be able to determine which part is bad. Wiggle the shaft around and see if and how much play you get. More than a little is too much. There is also a bearing in the rear of the tube that the shaft goes through and it could be loose as well.

If your steeringwheel side bearing is looses determine if it is loose against the shaft, or in the bearing socket. Loose in the socket means that you may need another collar (not too hard to get for low $$ here), loose against the shaft means you may need a new bearing, or a collar device to take up the slack as pictured in the lower right hand corner.
Dr Evil
This should get you on your way. I have more pics if you need.
billd
Thanks, I'll start disassembly and let you know what I find.
billd
The ball bearing at the rear of the steering shaft has failed. Actually had I been more observant I would have seen the little balls on the carpet. I suspect that this bearing is supposed to be a single caged assembly. Now it consists of separate inner and outer races, a somewhat mangled plastic guide, and individual balls. I've found eight of the ten balls. Even if I found them all, I doubt I could reassemble the bearing. Even if I freeze the inner race and balls and heat the outer race in the oven, I don't think it will go back together. I hope the Pelican has these.

I suspect that I did this to myself. I had to pull the wheel a while back and it didn't come off easily so I really yanked on it working it back and forth. The wheel finally came off, but it probably broke the ball bearing in the process. Next time I'll use a gear puller.
spare time toys
The bearing on the end by the 4 bolts keeps popping out on my car. What holds it up in there? When it comes out you can move the wheel as stated.
billd
Its held in by a clip ring - the big one shown in the picture.
DanT
Hey Bill,
Did you ever find a header?
I can hardly wait to get mine on the car. Especially with the shorty (loud) muffler.

Hope your refurb. is going well.

Dan
wink.gif
billd
QUOTE (Dan (Almaden Valley) @ Jan 2 2006, 07:13 PM)
Did you ever find a header?
I can hardly wait to get mine on the car. Especially with the shorty (loud) muffler.

Dan,

No, I haven't found a header yet. I'm probably going to Ax the car with the stock 2.0L and stock exhaust this year. Its not clear how much good a header will do without a more aggressive cam and a cam change won't work with the stock D-jet.

I'll build a better engine for 2007. I'm still debating how many cylinders it will have.
DanT
How about a set of SSIs and a Bursch? wink.gif

Might know where you could get them. biggrin.gif
billd
QUOTE (Dan (Almaden Valley) @ Jan 2 2006, 09:01 PM)
How about a set of SSIs and a Bursch? wink.gif

Might know where you could get them. biggrin.gif

Is that what you took off your car when you put on Randall's header? What do you want for them? I don't want to put a lot of money in this engine since it is definitely going to be replaced.
DanT
With that in mind then probably more than you want to spend.

Probably around $500 for the package but I will see once I get the headers on and the SSIs on the ground.

Save it and do something special like trick wheels and tires.
Have you decided if you will run Rs or streets like the Falken rt615s?
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