Is there anything I need to do when I bleed the brakes after I've had them entirely disassembled - including removal of the Master Cylinder? I've used the suction type bleeder to bleed them in the past with decent success. I just put them back to back together and was curious if that approach with will work?

Just cleaned up the entire system and upgraded to a 19mm MC - Hopefully will stop as good as new - or better?

You can use the suction bleeder. Do the furthest corners first. I'd use cheap fluid to start with, using the suction method. When you have done the first round using the suction method I'd switch to the pressure method to ensure all the air is out. Change to the good fluid (better if it is a different color), pump up the master cylinder, and bleed. Compressing shrinks the bubbles down to make it easier to get the bubbles out of the system. Also, pumping on the brake pedal will give you the correct feel for when the job is completely done.

The suction method is good when you know there are no bubbles in the system, and pressure method is better when there are bubbles. As always, a second person is handy to keep an eye on the fluid level to ensure no bubbles get into the master cylinder.

That about sums it up...


PAul

I got a pressure bleeder (Motive Products) from Pelican. Man, it is so much nicer than using the brake pedal. I'd never go back. Cost is like $40-50 and worth every penny.

QUOTE (jsteele22 @ Jan 5 2006, 03:00 PM)

I got a pressure bleeder (Motive Products) from Pelican. Man, it is so much nicer than using the brake pedal. I'd never go back. Cost is like $40-50 and worth every penny.

Did the same

Never go back after power bleeder!