is it vac leaks?

b

Is the cold start valve working?....shoots more gas in when cold...you should be able to hear it clicking just like the injectors.

i still have a type4...i cant hear anything except chug chug chug chug click click click click.....

i'll see if its still injecting fuel. i can feel it methinks.

b

The cold start valve only injects fuel while cranking. That's why it's a "start valve". If it's missing after starting, then that can't be it.

Does it miss only at idle, or at all engine speeds? Does it miss worse at idle, or worse at higher engine speeds?

Does it go away completely when the engine warms up?

i find it does go away when its warmed up.

engine speeds...i dont think it really matters.

on a scale of 1 to 4.5, this is like a 1.25 as fasr as the missing is concerned.

its an annoyance as opposed to an actual problem...

Im inclined to dismiss it as "L-jet is 2nd generation FI"

unless, there is a more logical reason as to why this is happening....

goes away in 10 minutes.

b

check your ignition points

Ignition points and vacuum leaks

i think i might need a new condensor.

or something like that. the points are brand spanking new.

i'm saving for a pertronix. this points crap is just pissing me off.

b

A dying condenser will generally cause it to miss, but it won't go away as it warms up. Indeed, it's usually worse when its warm. Still, it's not a bad idea to replace it, since it's cheap.

I'd be more inclined to think the idle mixture is a tad lean. This will cause a bigger problem when cold than when warm, and will mostly affect idle and off-idle.

On the Westy, I just jump out and push on the vacuum hoses and it goes away. Vacuum leaks that I'll fix when I rebuild it soon.

Check your grounds too.

I am more familiar with D-Jet than L-jet. Does L-Jet still use the cylinder heat temperature sensor? This was the problem with my car (D-Jet). I had the wrong ECU. The relationship with the head sensor and the ECU was wrong. When cold the car ran very lean. When the engine was up to temp, the 2 systems were the same and the car ran fine.

Mark

L-jet does use the CHT....at 16 bucks it should be replaced regularly anyway. I'll see what i can do.

b

QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jan 7 2006, 10:53 AM)

On the Westy,

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 7 2006, 09:01 AM)

QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jan 7 2006, 10:53 AM) On the Westy,

I have yet to camp in it....as it is/was just too unrelieable as I got it from the PO. No oil changes for years just worn out the bearings, as I was running straight 50wt to keep any oil pressure when hot on it. High oil temps (240-260) in the summer even after cleaning the oil cooler and cylinders of junk scared me from driving it far.

someday I want one of those. I think it would be a freakin blast to camp out in one of those....

b

anywho, my problem is probably a CHT, but the cht that came with the L-jet was like 10mm threading, while the stock cht is like i dunno, 18mm threading....

do they even read the same?

please keep in mind that this is the first start on a 30F day....

b

Check the AAR valve.
Unplug it and close the port on the plenum...

Then start it cold and see if it runs better.

That hose is so small and bent quite a bit...I would check it as that hose will create a pretty good leak.

Rich

this is what mine used to do.

Ended up having to replace just the top bushing in my distributer.



For a while, the metal in the bushing would only cause a miss when it was cold, until the metal expanded and fit properly.

If it starts doing it when it's warm- then this was the problem and the bushing is worn.

intresting.

i should test the CHT out anyway....just to make sure.

b

Find out what the CHT is supposed to measure when cold (ohms). Measure the CHT to compare. You can also use a pot to test and see if you can adjust out the miss when cold. This value will change as the car warms and you will have too change the setting on the pot. Not a cure but a test. You can also add a ballast resistor in series. I would try 50 to 100 ohm 1/2 watt for starters.