are the poly graphite worth the extra $$ over the standard rubber ?

QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Jan 9 2006, 11:41 AM)

are the poly graphite worth the extra $$ over the standard rubber ?

the 'standard rubber' what?

the OEM A-arms and trailing arm rubber bushes are molded in place and not individually replaceable. you need to replace the entire A-Arm or trailing arm to replace the OEM bushes.

so to replace them individually, you're always looking at some kind of alternative material - polyurethane, the Elephant bronze approach, or the Mueller needle bearing approach.

I had seen poly graphite hard plastic type bushings for the a arms , drop links, sway bars , rear trailing arms but were pretty pricey .. just didn't know if they were good to use or if would be better to be replaced w/ another better option .. or orginal rubber where applicable

The original rubber is not replaceable.

So you can leave them alone, or use an aftermarket replacement like poly, bronze, bearings.

If the originals are shot to the point that they are allowing metal to metal contact, then you need to replace.

brant

Like mentioned earlier, as far as I know, the only way to put new rubber bushings in the pivot points is to purchase new a-arms ($425 each) and trailing arms (not listed @ Pelican)

A few people have been lucky to find used parts with good rubber, but I'd think that is getting much more difficult to find.

A lot of people (me included) believe that the rubber bushings flexed and acted like a small spring in both directions. (the rubber "twisted")

The replacment plastic bushing change the characteristics and allow the a-arm to pivot.

I'd look into the bushings sold by Chris Foley @ Tangerine Racing.

QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Jan 9 2006, 08:18 AM)

or orginal rubber where applicable

no original rubber replacement available ...

I'm still undecided whether or not the original rubber bushings had been vulcanized/cured seperately or as an assembly......

I'm leaning towards seperately since the rear trailing arm bushings would have to have had something to contain the rubber from flowing on the inside of the trailing arm during vulcanization...if this is true, new rubber bushings could be made.


Anyone want to put in some money for making these?

I'm guessing just a few hundred bucks for the molds and to have some made......cost for about 25-50 should be in the $5 to $7 range each last time I got something similar quoted

Mike,

I know that the vulcanized, non vulcanized gets debated all the time on the 911 boards.

and some people SWEAR that when they get their stock ones out the bushing tears and leaves the skin on the metal where it was bonded to the metal.

I know my personal experience would be that they are not bonded to the metal.

you must have pushed out a few (hundred) of these yourself. And I think I've pushed out around a dozen.
None of the ones I've pushed out were ever glued in.

I have a giant vice that I use as a press... and I just pressed them all out. Front ones are especially easy.

So I'd agree with you.
someone could reproduce them and then press them back in. Perhaps use some glue or heat or something to help with installation, and to stick them to everything.

I even think at 15$ a pop, there would be a market over with the 911 guys. That being said... the installation experimentation would have to be nailed down first, and it might not work.

a lot of work for not so much gain.
Especially when MUELLER bearings will RULE for all time

brant

I ran polygraphite on a street driven hot rod el camino. I thought they were too harsh for a street car. Sure took alot of slop out of the front suspension though.