Howdy folks!
Been awhile since I've posted. I don't mean to neglect the 914club. The 914 is still my first passion...... and it sits quietly tucked away in my garage awaiting Spring... although I did take it out this weekend for a 2 hour stroll.
In the last 4 months, I've gotten married, gotten a new job, my wife got a new job, we bought a house, moved in, and yes... I've put the Acura up for sale.... as of Saturday.
If anyone's interested, it's in perfect shape.... an 02 with 45,500 miles, fully loaded with leather. The only mods are a 1.5 inch drop spring, a set of 18 inch BBS (ASA) wheels, and a factory Acura A-spec spoiler. Engine/tranny and exhaust are 100% original. I'm only asking PAYOFF..... which is $13,900. The KBB private party value is $14,400..... with the stock wheels (which come with the car anyway). Right now, it's the best deal on an RSX within 800 miles of me... hopefully it sells quick.
Anyway... the purpose of this post is to inquire to the minds of Subaru owners/enthusiasts. I've absolutely made up my mind that I want to get into an 02 or 03 WRX (not the STI... too much $$$)... with under $50,000 miles. I'm STRONGLY looking for a yellow one, and I don't mind travelling for it. My problem is that I keep running into (I've looked at several of them so far) WRXs that have been owned by kids.... and quite frankly, the shit has been beaten out of them.
I took one out this past weekend.... FROM A SUBARU DEALERSHIP if you can believe that. Yea.... it was fast...... and when I got back from the test drive, there was smoke and burning oil coming from under the hood. Lovely.
Anyway..... to the experts..... what are some easy-to-look-for things that I should concern myself with? Any inherant problems with these cars? What are good upgrades? What are the bad ones I should look for?
Sorry I've been gone for so long...... here's my favorite "collage" of recent pics:
And thanks for everyone's help in advance!!
--Matt
Full Version: OT: Experts on the Subaru WRX?
We bought an 02 salvage titled wagon from an 18 year old. It had 45k miles. So far the only problem is a burned out headlight bulb socket from when he ran high wattage ricer bulbs. I sold the blow off valve for $250 on ebay. 
We've had it for a year and probably have 70k on it now.
If you want less likelyhood for abuse, get a wagon (I think they look better anyways). Also, stay away from cars with major mods. They're very tough cars, and if the engine is stock, it drives and shifts fine, and the miles are low, needing a new clutch is really the only likely surprise you will get.
I'm not surprised by the smoke, the exhaust of turbo'd cars gets VERY hot, as does most of the turbo. Ours has smoked a little out of the snorkel when stopped after having been driven hard. It has never leaked a drop on the driveway though. It takes VERY little oil to make smoke. It's worth looking into, but don't write it off if it's perfect otherwise.
We've had it for a year and probably have 70k on it now. If you want less likelyhood for abuse, get a wagon (I think they look better anyways). Also, stay away from cars with major mods. They're very tough cars, and if the engine is stock, it drives and shifts fine, and the miles are low, needing a new clutch is really the only likely surprise you will get.
I'm not surprised by the smoke, the exhaust of turbo'd cars gets VERY hot, as does most of the turbo. Ours has smoked a little out of the snorkel when stopped after having been driven hard. It has never leaked a drop on the driveway though. It takes VERY little oil to make smoke. It's worth looking into, but don't write it off if it's perfect otherwise.
I appreciate the info...... Thanks.
I like the wagon's too....... but honestly...... ummm...... it's a STATIONWAGON..... not sure I can handle that. For me... it's one step blow a minivan.
Plus..... I've done quite a bit of research, and I will probably upgrade the wheels/tires... and the inner rear fenderwells on the wagons are smaller, and may rub with a larger/wider wheel. Definately don't want that.
So when should I expect to put a clutch in? Are they tough to do in an AWD car?
As for the smoke....... no, I din't write it off ONLY because of the smoke...... it was the Stickers on the bumper...... the fake carbon fiber trim, the short throw shifter that was hard to get into 2nd gear, etc. Plus... it was blue.
I like the wagon's too....... but honestly...... ummm...... it's a STATIONWAGON..... not sure I can handle that. For me... it's one step blow a minivan.
Plus..... I've done quite a bit of research, and I will probably upgrade the wheels/tires... and the inner rear fenderwells on the wagons are smaller, and may rub with a larger/wider wheel. Definately don't want that.
So when should I expect to put a clutch in? Are they tough to do in an AWD car?
As for the smoke....... no, I din't write it off ONLY because of the smoke...... it was the Stickers on the bumper...... the fake carbon fiber trim, the short throw shifter that was hard to get into 2nd gear, etc. Plus... it was blue.
If you're going for yellow, don't go for an 02, the 2003 had a new yellow that was actually nice (Sonic Yellow I think) the 02 looked like a faded post-it note. Oh, and subaru has some of the worst paint I've seen, chips very easily
As for things to look for: The trans is the first issue, the 02-04 wrx's 5 speed trans is a glass jaw. First gear is notoriously poor. Look for difficulty getting into first at a stop or when rolling at slow speeds. (known problem)
Look for Clutch chatter when starting off from a dead stop when its cold or damp out. That can get really bad. There was a TSD put out for it, but they were very, very stingy in doing the work.
Actually, thats pretty much the only thing I can think of, the AWD system is great, the turbo is undersized but efficient, the FI system is standard... There aren't too many other issues I had with mine.
History: Oct 01 (I think that was the date) purchased a 2002 WRX, drove it for 48k miles without an issue aside from the trans, didn't have the clutch chatter. Traded in the WRX for an STI in August of 03. I've got 77k miles on it with absolutely no issues, plus quite a number of auto-x's.
Hope it helps.
As for things to look for: The trans is the first issue, the 02-04 wrx's 5 speed trans is a glass jaw. First gear is notoriously poor. Look for difficulty getting into first at a stop or when rolling at slow speeds. (known problem)
Look for Clutch chatter when starting off from a dead stop when its cold or damp out. That can get really bad. There was a TSD put out for it, but they were very, very stingy in doing the work.
Actually, thats pretty much the only thing I can think of, the AWD system is great, the turbo is undersized but efficient, the FI system is standard... There aren't too many other issues I had with mine.
History: Oct 01 (I think that was the date) purchased a 2002 WRX, drove it for 48k miles without an issue aside from the trans, didn't have the clutch chatter. Traded in the WRX for an STI in August of 03. I've got 77k miles on it with absolutely no issues, plus quite a number of auto-x's.
Hope it helps.
| QUOTE |
| Look for Clutch chatter when starting off from a dead stop when its cold or damp out. That can get really bad. There was a TSD put out for it, but they were very, very stingy in doing the work. |
Whats a TSD? Is that like a manufacturer's recall??
Any chance you might have a link to that?
Sorry, its not a TSD, I meant TSB, technical service bulletin, the number is 035102 on this website: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/Index.cfm .
Other than that, the car is great.
Other than that, the car is great.
Bought an 03 WRX sedan new. Never abused it, but it smoked a little through the hood scoop on occasion. Had it towed the dealership once when my wife called to say significant smoke was coming out of the scoop one morning.
Dealer prognosis: nothing wrong with the car. With prodding, found an oil seal (near the turbo, of course) that was weeping ever so slightly. Two years and 30,000 miles, no other problems of any kind. Just an incredibly well-made car -- but one that feels a bit chintzy in some ways.
FWIW, do NOT install H&R springs without getting better shocks. This strategy may work in other cars (I've heard good things in Boxsters and some other Porsche models), but it does not work in the WRX. Plus, the stock suspension nears perfection in every way except for ride height. I regretted lowering the car later.
Would I buy a used WRX? Maybe a wagon, for the reasons stated above. I sold our sedan -- chosen over the wagon for exactly the reasons you state + less weight, a stiffer structure, and "those" flares -- after two years and bought a used Boxster. Something tells me I'd still have it if I had gotten the wagon...I always regretted my choice later.
The WRX is just such a do-anything car. The wagon aspect completes its portfolio as such.
But, to each their own...
pete
Dealer prognosis: nothing wrong with the car. With prodding, found an oil seal (near the turbo, of course) that was weeping ever so slightly. Two years and 30,000 miles, no other problems of any kind. Just an incredibly well-made car -- but one that feels a bit chintzy in some ways.
FWIW, do NOT install H&R springs without getting better shocks. This strategy may work in other cars (I've heard good things in Boxsters and some other Porsche models), but it does not work in the WRX. Plus, the stock suspension nears perfection in every way except for ride height. I regretted lowering the car later.
Would I buy a used WRX? Maybe a wagon, for the reasons stated above. I sold our sedan -- chosen over the wagon for exactly the reasons you state + less weight, a stiffer structure, and "those" flares -- after two years and bought a used Boxster. Something tells me I'd still have it if I had gotten the wagon...I always regretted my choice later.
The WRX is just such a do-anything car. The wagon aspect completes its portfolio as such.
But, to each their own...
pete
I'd love a wagon with sedan flares... It'd be a nice personalized touch. (here in CA, every thrid car is a WRX)
Ours does the cold clutch thing every once in a long while, but only when I drive it. I think one of us rides the clutch just a little more than the other, and only my driving style triggers it. (it goes away in a minute or so when it happens) I don't really consider it a big deal as I know it will probably need a clutch eventually anyways. As far changing the clutch, either the engine or trans has to come out. Not too much harder than any other car, but the turbo complicates engine removal, and the AWD complicates the trans removal. On our old Subaru (turbo 4wd GL-10) I opted for engine removal.
Ours does the cold clutch thing every once in a long while, but only when I drive it. I think one of us rides the clutch just a little more than the other, and only my driving style triggers it. (it goes away in a minute or so when it happens) I don't really consider it a big deal as I know it will probably need a clutch eventually anyways. As far changing the clutch, either the engine or trans has to come out. Not too much harder than any other car, but the turbo complicates engine removal, and the AWD complicates the trans removal. On our old Subaru (turbo 4wd GL-10) I opted for engine removal.
I don't know too much about WRXs, but I do know this; don't let Brad drive you home in one after drinking waaaaay to much tequila. 
I vaguley recall flying around the back seat of Jenny's after the WCC opening party. 
I think it was fast...
I vaguley recall flying around the back seat of Jenny's after the WCC opening party. I think it was fast...
Good cars, but a stock 914 will spoil you with torque off the line compared to the heavy WRX. The worst is turning a tight corner, low in 2nd gear. Get ready to not go anywhere fast!
I have a wagon, it is fun as long as you stay within it's design limits.
Watch out for transmission problems on used cars. The forums are full of people complaining of 1st and 2nd synchro problems. The transmission is weak and was not made to handle abuse.
I have a wagon, it is fun as long as you stay within it's design limits.
Watch out for transmission problems on used cars. The forums are full of people complaining of 1st and 2nd synchro problems. The transmission is weak and was not made to handle abuse.
Go for a wagon over the sedan. Tons of reasons why. The main one being space. The wagon has folding rear seats. The sedan has a "pass through" that can sometimes let you put skis in the car.
My wagon has been used for just about everyhting. Granted, I have an Impreza OBS not WRX, so I have more ground clearence. It has hauled several tons of concrete (not all at once, only about 800 pounds at a time). It has taken me, my finace, and our mountian bikes/camping gear/etc into places that I did not think that car would be able to get to. These cars are better off road then many of the SUVs out there. Its not a Jeep, but it will put a Ford Explorer to shame.
The tranny on these cars are not really glass. The problem here is that the WRX is a rally car that the F&F crowd wants to use as a 1/4 mile dragster. The engine does not put out the torque needed to break all 4 wheels free when dumping the clutch at 6000+ RPM. This makes for very fast starts (a good thing). It also leads to stripped transmissions in short order. When the WRX first came out, the the draggers found how fast they were, and then started breaking trannies. Thus began the "glass transmission" story. Its just not what the car was designed for. If a mustang or a camero could not spin its tires after dumping the clutch, thier trannies would be "made of glass" too.
You probably know this, but a ton of information can be found in the forums at www.nasioc.com
Zach
My wagon has been used for just about everyhting. Granted, I have an Impreza OBS not WRX, so I have more ground clearence. It has hauled several tons of concrete (not all at once, only about 800 pounds at a time). It has taken me, my finace, and our mountian bikes/camping gear/etc into places that I did not think that car would be able to get to. These cars are better off road then many of the SUVs out there. Its not a Jeep, but it will put a Ford Explorer to shame.
The tranny on these cars are not really glass. The problem here is that the WRX is a rally car that the F&F crowd wants to use as a 1/4 mile dragster. The engine does not put out the torque needed to break all 4 wheels free when dumping the clutch at 6000+ RPM. This makes for very fast starts (a good thing). It also leads to stripped transmissions in short order. When the WRX first came out, the the draggers found how fast they were, and then started breaking trannies. Thus began the "glass transmission" story. Its just not what the car was designed for. If a mustang or a camero could not spin its tires after dumping the clutch, thier trannies would be "made of glass" too.
You probably know this, but a ton of information can be found in the forums at www.nasioc.com
Zach
I've owned my 04 WRX wagon for almost 2 years and 48,000 miles.
I have modified it to a stage 2 level around 285hp at the crank.
There are several things to check for when buying used.
1. Has the car EVER had a Cold air intake. The Mass Airflow sensor is very sensitive and without a Pro tune of the ECU you CANNOT run a cold air intake without leaning out the motor to a point where damage will occur.
2. Verify if there has EVER been Engine managment installed. The ACCESSPORT system that I use programs the stock ECU and if not sold with the Car can be impossible to remove the programming without the EXACT unit that programmed the car. The systems get "married". Also verify if the ECU has been replaced with a Aftermarket unit.
3. The transmission... As stated above the Drag racers destroy trannies but it is not 1st you need to worry about it's 2nd. Power shifting in second will overload the tranny since the traction is not overcome by the engine torque. Most WRX owners who have failure say that they slip the clutch on a launch in first but then drop the clutch in second and that's it. Look for a Tranny that is very hard to get into 2nd WHEN THE CAR IS ICE COLD
Other than that these cars are bullet proof.
As for mods. The first thing you need to get is engine managment this will support future mods. There are 2 ways a programmer or a new ECU that gets tuned by a professional. If you go with a programmer you can only do specific mods to match up with the premade tunes. With the ECU you will need to get it retuned after each mod.
Second is exhaust. There are 2 pipes that make the most difference. First is the uppipe from the manifold to the turbo. This has a precat that slows spool but the big isue is that during high boost high EGT scenerios the precat can come apart and go right into the turbo killing it instantly. The next pipe is the downpipe this also has a cat and ther are 3 types the standard where the wastegate just hits a flat plate. A divorced which has a separate pipe for the wastegate and the bellmouth. Stay away from the standard and only go with a divorced or bellmouth. There are long and short varieties the long replaced the mid-pipe and Main cat (for catless downpipes) and make the car very loud.
Lastly you can replace the mid-pipe cat with an eliminator 5 hp gain and the catback 10hp gain.
For the uppipe and downpipe and mid-pipe you need to check out Crutial racing they make the absolute best pipes available.
Do not get a BOV!!! The WRX uses a recycling type BOV and the ECU keeps track of the air since it recirculates.
Do not get a cold air intake unless you get a protune!
Upgraded turbo. There is too much to list here but the crank horsepower starts at 300 with a new turbo and tuning with STI injectors.
Front mount intercooler. If you are ready for a front mount you need ECU and tuning but at that point you will probably have had the car for a while.
If you need more info let me know.
Links www.wrxfanatics.com
www.nasioc.com
www.cobbtuning.com (accesport programmer)
www.crucialracing.com
I have modified it to a stage 2 level around 285hp at the crank.
There are several things to check for when buying used.
1. Has the car EVER had a Cold air intake. The Mass Airflow sensor is very sensitive and without a Pro tune of the ECU you CANNOT run a cold air intake without leaning out the motor to a point where damage will occur.
2. Verify if there has EVER been Engine managment installed. The ACCESSPORT system that I use programs the stock ECU and if not sold with the Car can be impossible to remove the programming without the EXACT unit that programmed the car. The systems get "married". Also verify if the ECU has been replaced with a Aftermarket unit.
3. The transmission... As stated above the Drag racers destroy trannies but it is not 1st you need to worry about it's 2nd. Power shifting in second will overload the tranny since the traction is not overcome by the engine torque. Most WRX owners who have failure say that they slip the clutch on a launch in first but then drop the clutch in second and that's it. Look for a Tranny that is very hard to get into 2nd WHEN THE CAR IS ICE COLD
Other than that these cars are bullet proof.
As for mods. The first thing you need to get is engine managment this will support future mods. There are 2 ways a programmer or a new ECU that gets tuned by a professional. If you go with a programmer you can only do specific mods to match up with the premade tunes. With the ECU you will need to get it retuned after each mod.
Second is exhaust. There are 2 pipes that make the most difference. First is the uppipe from the manifold to the turbo. This has a precat that slows spool but the big isue is that during high boost high EGT scenerios the precat can come apart and go right into the turbo killing it instantly. The next pipe is the downpipe this also has a cat and ther are 3 types the standard where the wastegate just hits a flat plate. A divorced which has a separate pipe for the wastegate and the bellmouth. Stay away from the standard and only go with a divorced or bellmouth. There are long and short varieties the long replaced the mid-pipe and Main cat (for catless downpipes) and make the car very loud.
Lastly you can replace the mid-pipe cat with an eliminator 5 hp gain and the catback 10hp gain.
For the uppipe and downpipe and mid-pipe you need to check out Crutial racing they make the absolute best pipes available.
Do not get a BOV!!! The WRX uses a recycling type BOV and the ECU keeps track of the air since it recirculates.
Do not get a cold air intake unless you get a protune!
Upgraded turbo. There is too much to list here but the crank horsepower starts at 300 with a new turbo and tuning with STI injectors.
Front mount intercooler. If you are ready for a front mount you need ECU and tuning but at that point you will probably have had the car for a while.
If you need more info let me know.
Links www.wrxfanatics.com
www.nasioc.com
www.cobbtuning.com (accesport programmer)
www.crucialracing.com
^^^^^^
Wow...... I appreciate all the info!!
Honestly though..... I never modified the Acura... at least not the engine. Not interested in racing it...... just need a new daily driver.... and wouldn't mind having something with a bit more "pep"... thats all.
Thats why I'm looking for one thats been unmolested.
I joined NASOIC the other day... and the damn site doesn't work properly.... I couldn't get it to allow me to post..... never sent me a confirmation email, etc.
Right now..... the extent of my "mods" will be a set of STI 17 inch wheels, and a stereo upgrade.... thats about it.
I appreciate the comments on the wagon..... and I must admit, for a wagon.... its about the coolest out there....... but it's still a wagon... sorry.
Nope..... I need a bigger car...... with 4 doors.... but it has to be something that I enjoy driving.... enjoy looking at.... and has good reliability and good resale value...... for around $16-$18K.
If anyone has a better suggestion than an 02 or 03 WRX..... I'm all ears... but I think for me, its my best choice.
Wow...... I appreciate all the info!!
Honestly though..... I never modified the Acura... at least not the engine. Not interested in racing it...... just need a new daily driver.... and wouldn't mind having something with a bit more "pep"... thats all.
Thats why I'm looking for one thats been unmolested.
I joined NASOIC the other day... and the damn site doesn't work properly.... I couldn't get it to allow me to post..... never sent me a confirmation email, etc.
Right now..... the extent of my "mods" will be a set of STI 17 inch wheels, and a stereo upgrade.... thats about it.
I appreciate the comments on the wagon..... and I must admit, for a wagon.... its about the coolest out there....... but it's still a wagon... sorry.
Nope..... I need a bigger car...... with 4 doors.... but it has to be something that I enjoy driving.... enjoy looking at.... and has good reliability and good resale value...... for around $16-$18K.
If anyone has a better suggestion than an 02 or 03 WRX..... I'm all ears... but I think for me, its my best choice.
this seems to be in your range...1997 BMW m3 sedan for $16k being sold by a fellow 914 member.
^^^^^
Nice ride..... definately.
A little higher on the mileage, and low on the year than I want to gor for my daily driver, and the gas mileage will suffer as well.... plus, I lose the AWD.
Sounds like a DAMN good deal nevertheless
If my wife were looking..... I'd be all over that.
For me.... I'm pretty intent on the WRX.
Nice ride..... definately.
A little higher on the mileage, and low on the year than I want to gor for my daily driver, and the gas mileage will suffer as well.... plus, I lose the AWD.
Sounds like a DAMN good deal nevertheless
If my wife were looking..... I'd be all over that.
For me.... I'm pretty intent on the WRX.
| QUOTE (mike_the_man @ Jan 10 2006, 09:41 PM) |
| I don't know too much about WRXs, but I do know this; don't let Brad drive you home in one after drinking waaaaay to much tequila. I vaguley recall flying around the back seat of Jenny's after the WCC opening party. I think it was fast... |
dude.... i remember that.
yes. wrx's are fun
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