I've been working on the teener this week rying to get ready for the ECR. I got the rear glass replaced, new rear window seal, newly painted grill and engine lid and now working on the interior. I'm still fighting with the undercoating that was sprayed inside the car. What upset me last night was having my scraper slide easily between the floorboard and heater box. I also stumbled on some tape like stuff (F'Glass?) in a similar location next to the pedal board. I don't think this car is worth the investment it would take to make it right. With both sails gone, both drivers side fenders showing rust through and both doors without good seal areas, I'm just wasting money IMO.

Sooooo... How much would it cost for a GOOD chassis? How hard and how much time would it take to transfer all of my /6 stuff over? Is CA the only place to find a "rust-free" tub?

Another thought too; could someone weld in a cage and install steel flares on a bare tub and make the neccasary /6 body mods then ship it East?

Oh man, what have I gotten myself hooked on this time?

Its all doable... but your east coast shops would probably charge you a lot less to have all that done (since they have to do it more than we do).

I have one decent rolling tub that needs a home. Its a early tub and I will ask 750$ for it. The tar paper on the floorboards has already been removed. I feel it is a strong solid chassis with no wrecks. Currently yellow. It would make a decent conversion car if approached correctly.


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To flip everything from one tub to another will run you about 4k or 80hours. This includes the 6 dash/column/wiring harness.. everything.


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Any area that is low humidity and they don't salt their roads can have rust free tubs. Texas and Arizona come to mind,but that's only because that's where I found mine.

Texas and southern cars (NM/AZ) can have really bad rust issues (from batteries boiling over and rotting the frame rail). Typically they dont have trunk rust or front rubber channel rust... but may have rusted floorboards from water sitting. North Texas can have nice cars... Houston cars are not so great.


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High humidity in Houston. Must be from all those fountains in that city .

David,
Sorry to hear that you keep finding more holes. If I can't help you fix that one maybe I can help you upgrade the next one.

Chris, you're not off the hook yet. I'm still not sure what direction I want to go in. Reading about the acid dipped chassis made me want to start fresh, but I hate to see another 914 go to the grave. I have had pretty good luck today with the floors. I'm about to apply my first coat of POR15 now. I have all of the gunk off and it's nice and clean. The only rust on the floors themselves is on the "inspection plates". Over the winter I'll look at the car further and save up to have some racer dude in CT do some fancy welding or hire a CA guy to find me a super clean chassis. With a newer tail dragger in the works, I won't mind so much not having the 914 running for a little while.

Now off to paint... where are my gloves? I'd hate to get this stuff on my Hootus!

Something I thought about today by using acid dipping which turns out much better than bead blasting..

These guys can beed blast all they want... I dont have "sponge" material in the rear quarters near the taillights or "sponge" material at the tops of the fenders (that cause the small rust holes) or "sponge" material at the fronts of the fenders.


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Man,

I hate that freakin sponge stuff. It's a bastard to get out and it catches fire when you try and weld near it, but not enough that it will actually burns away.

Anyone know what the best way of getting rid of it is??

Fiid.

I think if the tub is dipped in acid then the foam stuff will dissolve!

so if I bought an acid tipped tub, I would not have a repeat of the rust I have now?

oh,what to do? what to do?

From what I understand.. you ahouls be able to drive a 914 into the Atlantic ocean near New Jersey and the paint and everything should come off the car within minutes...LOL



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