I am trying to create a custom dash and want to glue wood veneer to the metal dash - what is the best glue? I tried Elmer's wood glue and it did not work too well - any suggestions?

I yould suggest construction adhesive. You can find it at home depot or any hardware store. It comes in a silicone tube. We have a brand here that works very well (PL Premium, I don't know if you have it in the US).

Epoxy would surely work to.

Liquid nails
Never used it on a dash, but works great for big bathroom mirrors.

If you use epoxy, make sure the metal is completely clean and bright, pour the epoxy on, then use some sandpaper to sand the metal through the still-liquid epoxy. It's the best way to ensure that you have a good bond between the epoxy and non-oxydized metal. You can then either press the veneer on right away, or let the epoxy cure, sand and apply a new coat of epoxy.
You can definitely get a good strong joint between epoxy and steel.

My plan is to do a wood dash as well. Have you considered screws? Black anodized self tapping screws would look really sharp, I bet. And allow you ro remove the dash as needed. This is how they do it for a lot of boats.

If you want to use a glue though, Liquid Nails and Gorilla Glue and 2 part Epoxy will all get the job done. Beware, though. If you bond it, it will be a perminant dash. Make sure you engineer any future work fixes into it now.

Good luck, and post pics.

Zach

I've removed the metal substrate from the dash and am using this as a template for the veneer. The glove compartment came out good, but the other pieces will be more of a challenge. I'll post pics when complete!

I'd use contact cement, the solvent base kind.....coat both surfaces, let it dry, clamp for a couple hours. I've done lots of veneering this way.

QUOTE (goose2 @ Jan 23 2006, 08:57 AM)

I'd use contact cement, the solvent base kind.....coat both surfaces, let it dry, clamp for a couple hours. I've done lots of veneering this way.

Contact Cement, vote #2.. Epoxy will take clamping and may be difficult to spread evenly enough so you don't have a "lumpy" surface if you are using true veneer (very very thin material). If you go for a homemade but heavier thickness (like 1/8" or 3/16"), epoxy is probably fine.. otherwise I'd go with the contact cement also.. besides, I think it's much quicker and easier to use.

I say gorilla glue. But, if you ever plan of getting it off, there is no way your going to be able to do it.

gorilla glue is the best shit I have ever used ! I also build furnature as a hobby --- I have used in furnature , motorcycles, cars .. it does it all

but he is right it will never come off! --- also beware it does foam a bit and expands as it dries

QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Jan 23 2006, 01:52 PM)

but he is right it will never come off! --- also beware it does foam a bit and expands as it dries

I forgot about that. That's becauses its polyeurothane (sp?) based IIRC like someother glues so the extra foam that comes out would need to be sanded off or you just need to think about using less glue. Though that shouldn'r be a big deal since this is not a high strength application.

contact cement.

Dont get the cheap stuff that the local hardware storesell, go to a countertop fabrication place and buy a quart of the flamable stuff. It is all I trust.

It will hold really well.

Clean both surfaces with denatured alchohol first, and use the alchohol to clean off any drips you may have.

Beware, touch once, cant move (If done correctly...temp is the key)

Rich

QUOTE (Leo Imperial @ Jan 23 2006, 05:01 AM)

Liquid nails

x2

Good GOD don't use all that shit!

CONTACT CEMENT... follow the instructions.

heh sheesh! You guys are crazy!



M

another vote for gorilla glue! Its cheap and trouble free

brent

Urethane glue wants two damp surfaces, and if there is a void, it turns to urethane foam. If it's not properly cauled, and clamped, it turns to foam.

Urethane foam breaks down with heat, and vibration.

You would be better off using the same liquid contact cement that the horn pads are glued in with. An aerosol upholstery glue would be my second choice.


M

I opted for the Elmers equivalant to the Gorilla Glue - polyurethane based - an less expensive. For teh first attempt it seemed to work good. I wiped the wood down with a wet towel.

QUOTE

Urethane glue wants two damp surfaces, and if there is a void, it turns to urethane foam. If it's not properly cauled, and clamped, it turns to foam.

this is all correct....your gorilla glue may work ok but the right adhesive for the job is solvent base contact cement. I have applied literally thousands of square feet of veneers to various substrates, including metals, and never had a failure. It's also the easiest.

The problem with liquid nails or gorilla glues is it puts to thick of a film on surface and could cause lumps or an uneven surface
Contack cement is the way to go use only solvent base. Used the water base one time what a waste of money no matter how i applied it it would not stick