Hey there,
I'm working a 1975 914 with the 1.8 engine - still fuel injected. I was going on the basis that a free porsche is a good porsche, and until now, that's been pretty true.
I replaced all the electronics for the ignitions system (coil, plugs, wires, points, condenser, and cap) and replaced all the vacuum lines when I first got the car and it's been running okay. But when It's cold it won't idle unless I unplug the big computer harness by the air filter. Once it's warmed up good, I plug it back it and the little sucker revs up quite well. So I figured I needed a new cold start valve to fix this problem, just installed it and now the car seems to run extremely rich, won't idle and won't rev up - what gives?
I can rebuild an entire tractor, but this early 70's fuel injection is something else!
thanks,
DT
Full Version: Help - new to the porsche world
| QUOTE (deserttoad @ Jan 24 2006, 05:50 PM) |
| Hey there, I'm working a 1975 914 with the 1.8 engine - still fuel injected. I was going on the basis that a free porsche is a good porsche, and until now, that's been pretty true. I replaced all the electronics for the ignitions system (coil, plugs, wires, points, condenser, and cap) and replaced all the vacuum lines when I first got the car and it's been running okay. But when It's cold it won't idle unless I unplug the big computer harness by the air filter. Once it's warmed up good, I plug it back it and the little sucker revs up quite well. So I figured I needed a new cold start valve to fix this problem, just installed it and now the car seems to run extremely rich, won't idle and won't rev up - what gives? I can rebuild an entire tractor, but this early 70's fuel injection is something else! thanks, DT |
Welcome! Too bad you spent the bux before you asked. The CS valve works ONLY while the engine is cranking, and ONLY when it's really cold. They almost never go bad. Back to basics. No vacuum leaks from the TWO oil filler seals, from the valve covers, or the hoses. Timing set using the correct procedure, NOT like a D-jet engine. Valves set to .006". Distributor vacuum can holds vacuum. That said, I suspect your airbox (the thing you unplugged) is bad. You might have a seriously bad time finding one, as they're a 1 year, 1 car part, and they have a dismal failure rate. Rebuilders don't really do them well, either. Good luck, The Cap'n
your little box (I assume the one you're unplugging) is stuck.
they are somewhat fragile...but superior to other "period" forms of fuel injection.
anywho, take the rubber intake boot off and put your finger in that little hole and see if you can push the flap up without it getting stuck. Getting stuck is a bad thing.
Also, your revs might be low when cold if your Auxillary Air Reglator (AAR) is bad. Its a silver cookie looking thing (choclate chip) with two hoses going to it, as well as a black connector.
what are you unplugging anyway?
if you have any other Q's, post here or pm me. I have a frankenstein 74 and 72 and 73 914.
Welcome to teh club
b
they are somewhat fragile...but superior to other "period" forms of fuel injection.
anywho, take the rubber intake boot off and put your finger in that little hole and see if you can push the flap up without it getting stuck. Getting stuck is a bad thing.
Also, your revs might be low when cold if your Auxillary Air Reglator (AAR) is bad. Its a silver cookie looking thing (choclate chip) with two hoses going to it, as well as a black connector.
what are you unplugging anyway?
if you have any other Q's, post here or pm me. I have a frankenstein 74 and 72 and 73 914.
Welcome to teh club
b
I don't have your answer, but welcome! 
| QUOTE (deserttoad @ Jan 24 2006, 05:50 PM) |
| Hey there, I'm working a 1975 914 with the 1.8 engine - still fuel injected. I was going on the basis that a free porsche is a good porsche, and until now, that's been pretty true. I replaced all the electronics for the ignitions system (coil, plugs, wires, points, condenser, and cap) and replaced all the vacuum lines when I first got the car and it's been running okay. But when It's cold it won't idle unless I unplug the big computer harness by the air filter. Once it's warmed up good, I plug it back it and the little sucker revs up quite well. So I figured I needed a new cold start valve to fix this problem, just installed it and now the car seems to run extremely rich, won't idle and won't rev up - what gives? I can rebuild an entire tractor, but this early 70's fuel injection is something else! thanks, DT |
Lovelock! not too far from me
Wow! Seems like a great forum already - I posted pretty much the same thing last fall on some other site, never did get a response. Can't wait to try again - perhaps when the swather is out of the shop the 914 should be next?
To start, I should clarify what shape this car is in: It was given to my wife who wanted a small car (I was looking for a VW Karma), So I threw it on the trailer and brought it home. The last guy had the wrong fuel pump on it, the engine was filthy, the dist. was turned so much it wouldn't crank, most of the vacuum lines were cracked or missing, and I don't remember what else... So this quite a learning experience, but I love a good challenge. With that said, any help you people can offer is gladly excepted, and the only book I have is the Hayes - which is poorly done. I found the vacuum line diagram on the net. And I am still confused about the L-jet and D-jet injection, and I circled the 1.8 in my book, so I assume that's what I have. I haven't even looked at the car in 6 months.
I was looking through some old papers from last year, and I circled one that said the temp sensor sends some info to the computer for correct fuel mixing, but the wire to my temp sensor is broken, what effect, if any would this have? On another note I played with the adjustment under the cover on the air box, and that got things running pretty good at a higher idle.
The next hunt will be for a driver side door - I have all the hardware, so keep your eyes peeled.
and thanks again!
DT
p.s. erikstoll - you have some horses that need some hay? Perhaps we could do a little horse tradin' hehe
To start, I should clarify what shape this car is in: It was given to my wife who wanted a small car (I was looking for a VW Karma), So I threw it on the trailer and brought it home. The last guy had the wrong fuel pump on it, the engine was filthy, the dist. was turned so much it wouldn't crank, most of the vacuum lines were cracked or missing, and I don't remember what else... So this quite a learning experience, but I love a good challenge. With that said, any help you people can offer is gladly excepted, and the only book I have is the Hayes - which is poorly done. I found the vacuum line diagram on the net. And I am still confused about the L-jet and D-jet injection, and I circled the 1.8 in my book, so I assume that's what I have. I haven't even looked at the car in 6 months.
I was looking through some old papers from last year, and I circled one that said the temp sensor sends some info to the computer for correct fuel mixing, but the wire to my temp sensor is broken, what effect, if any would this have? On another note I played with the adjustment under the cover on the air box, and that got things running pretty good at a higher idle.
The next hunt will be for a driver side door - I have all the hardware, so keep your eyes peeled.
and thanks again!
DT
p.s. erikstoll - you have some horses that need some hay? Perhaps we could do a little horse tradin' hehe
| QUOTE (deserttoad @ Jan 25 2006, 12:37 PM) |
| p.s. erikstoll - you have some horses that need some hay? Perhaps we could do a little horse tradin' hehe |
haha i love in a dorm at UNR so nope i dont have horses, i however do know someone who does =P
once i get my 914 from Vegas and then get it running ill have to head west, do lunch or somethin =) only been through Lovelock once... grandparents had bad luck there about... 12 years back when they got into a nast car accident outside of town
/rambling
Howdy again gang,
Been a bit too cold to be out in the driveway, but now things are warming up - maybe this weekend I'll tackle this thing.
I attached a few photos of the motor, that way some smart son of gun can just say, "hey that thingie is hooked up wrong", and all will be solved.
First photo is the airbox, and that big plug is what I'm unplugging. I did check both o-rings on the oil fill, they're okay. And I'll see if I can't borrow something to set the timing via vacuum and also make sure the distributor holds vacuum. What's the easiest way to check the valve covers?
In the meantime, any advice appreciated!
DT
Been a bit too cold to be out in the driveway, but now things are warming up - maybe this weekend I'll tackle this thing.
I attached a few photos of the motor, that way some smart son of gun can just say, "hey that thingie is hooked up wrong", and all will be solved.
First photo is the airbox, and that big plug is what I'm unplugging. I did check both o-rings on the oil fill, they're okay. And I'll see if I can't borrow something to set the timing via vacuum and also make sure the distributor holds vacuum. What's the easiest way to check the valve covers?
In the meantime, any advice appreciated!
DT
seems I can only add one photo per post, of course I might be doing something wrong too!
thanks again!
You said in a previous post "the wire to my temp sensor is broken". Is this the one on the right side of the motor inside the engine tin?
If so, that is the primary temprature sender for the L-Jet system. If the wire is broken, the reisistance is infinite, it thinks the engine is antartic cold. So it richens the mixture up a whole bunch. By going in a resetting the air flow meter, you leaned out the mixture. It will run fine when warm like that, but it won't run cold at all. It's way too lean. By unplugging the air flow meter, you force the mixture rich.
Get a new temp sender, and set the air flow meter back where it was.
BTW.. the official word about the rebuilt air flow meters.. the same basic meter was used on 1800 beetles. You can get a rebuilt one, but it will be calibrated for the beetle, and will not work right on a 914.
If so, that is the primary temprature sender for the L-Jet system. If the wire is broken, the reisistance is infinite, it thinks the engine is antartic cold. So it richens the mixture up a whole bunch. By going in a resetting the air flow meter, you leaned out the mixture. It will run fine when warm like that, but it won't run cold at all. It's way too lean. By unplugging the air flow meter, you force the mixture rich.
Get a new temp sender, and set the air flow meter back where it was.
BTW.. the official word about the rebuilt air flow meters.. the same basic meter was used on 1800 beetles. You can get a rebuilt one, but it will be calibrated for the beetle, and will not work right on a 914.
| QUOTE (deserttoad @ Feb 6 2006, 11:59 AM) |
| Been a bit too cold to be out in the driveway... |
Nevada? Cold? :-)
Anyhow. You can post multiple photos in a single post by having them hosted off-site somewhere. I use Flickr (www.flickr.com).
Welcome!
Zach
Biggest issue with 1.8's are vacuum leaks. In my expereince if your oil filler cap gasket is bad or any vacuum line is bad you will have idle problems.
On a seperate note that engine compartment has a bunch of surface rust on components, have you looked below the battery to make sure you dont have structral rust issues You may learn very quickly what free means with a 914.
On a seperate note that engine compartment has a bunch of surface rust on components, have you looked below the battery to make sure you dont have structral rust issues You may learn very quickly what free means with a 914.
Wow! You boys are fast!
Okay, sounds like step one is to fix the broken temp sensor wire. I am assuming that what is broken, it is on the right side of the motor and heads down under the battery - believe it's the oil temp sensor?
Second - what is the easiest/best way to check for a vacuum leak, the carb cleaner with motor running (please tell me there is a better way).
I think this is where the wire went. I really need to get this thing into the shop and up off the ground - might start with a good steam cleaning too!
Okay, sounds like step one is to fix the broken temp sensor wire. I am assuming that what is broken, it is on the right side of the motor and heads down under the battery - believe it's the oil temp sensor?
Second - what is the easiest/best way to check for a vacuum leak, the carb cleaner with motor running (please tell me there is a better way).
I think this is where the wire went. I really need to get this thing into the shop and up off the ground - might start with a good steam cleaning too!
The plastic tube sticking up against the plug wire is a vacuum line that goes to the charcoal canister. The sensor will be behind the intake runner that goes to the right rear cylinder. It should pass through a grommet into the engine tin and screw into the head. It is not an oil temp sender.
It will hook to a connection on the FI wire harness.
It will hook to a connection on the FI wire harness.
Ah, gotcha. Guess I should fix this vacuum line as well then.
Does the temp sending unit run up to the oil temp gauge as well, or is that different - it doesn't work either.
Okay, I've had about enough of this accounting - You guys are making me want to go outside and get to work!
DT
Does the temp sending unit run up to the oil temp gauge as well, or is that different - it doesn't work either.
Okay, I've had about enough of this accounting - You guys are making me want to go outside and get to work!
DT
The oil temp gauge is run from a different sender. It is located in the bottom of the case in the "taco plate" in the left front corner. It should be a green wire coming out of the taco plate and it runs over to the right front corner of the engine compartment under the tin.
The vacuum line in the picture does not hook to the engine. It hooks to the small fitting on the charcoal canister. Hooking it to a vacuum port will cause the engine to suck in all the fuel vapor in the tank and cause the engine to run real rich...... It can actually suck up raw fuel from the fuel overflow tank. BTDT. I killed all 4 injectors and the car still ran... very badly.
The vacuum line in the picture does not hook to the engine. It hooks to the small fitting on the charcoal canister. Hooking it to a vacuum port will cause the engine to suck in all the fuel vapor in the tank and cause the engine to run real rich...... It can actually suck up raw fuel from the fuel overflow tank. BTDT. I killed all 4 injectors and the car still ran... very badly.
Okay, I just ran out and looked at the car (benefits of working at home are never ending).
#1. I assume there should be a nipple on the charcoal canister for that line, it's gone - need new canister.
#2. Between this line and the firewall is a green wire that is disconnected, I assume this is from the oil temp sender?
#3. There is a black wire conncected to a white wire between this unhooked line and the trunk coming from the tinwork and enter all the other white wires - I assume this is the temp sensor, any way to tell if it's working?
If anyone knows of a better repair manual than Hayes, I'd appreciate it.
Question: What bright German engineer decided to make all fuel injection wires white?
DT
#1. I assume there should be a nipple on the charcoal canister for that line, it's gone - need new canister.
#2. Between this line and the firewall is a green wire that is disconnected, I assume this is from the oil temp sender?
#3. There is a black wire conncected to a white wire between this unhooked line and the trunk coming from the tinwork and enter all the other white wires - I assume this is the temp sensor, any way to tell if it's working?
If anyone knows of a better repair manual than Hayes, I'd appreciate it.
Question: What bright German engineer decided to make all fuel injection wires white?
DT
| QUOTE (deserttoad @ Feb 6 2006, 02:00 PM) |
| Okay, I just ran out and looked at the car (benefits of working at home are never ending). #1. I assume there should be a nipple on the charcoal canister for that line, it's gone - need new canister. #2. Between this line and the firewall is a green wire that is disconnected, I assume this is from the oil temp sender? #3. There is a black wire conncected to a white wire between this unhooked line and the trunk coming from the tinwork and enter all the other white wires - I assume this is the temp sensor, any way to tell if it's working? If anyone knows of a better repair manual than Hayes, I'd appreciate it. Question: What bright German engineer decided to make all fuel injection wires white? DT |
Answers..
2. Sounds like it. Ground it and the temp gauge should peg out.
3. That is the temp sender. There is a test procedure in the manual.
As for the white wires, I dunno. But it pisses me off too.
Question, your avatar... is that Rare Bear? I can't tell for sure as its real small.
Sounds like I'd better finish getting a clutch in the tractor, so I have room to put the 914 in the shop, then it won't matter if it's cold out!
Answer: Good eye! That's the Bear - go the Reno Air Races every year and camp out next to a buddy's hangar. We just live there for about four straight days. He's the owner of Aviation Classics http://aviationclassics.com/
Answer: Good eye! That's the Bear - go the Reno Air Races every year and camp out next to a buddy's hangar. We just live there for about four straight days. He's the owner of Aviation Classics http://aviationclassics.com/
We were there for the cancelled one in 2001 and were back again in 2002.
Great racing. Loved the AT-6 finals start. Missed seeing the bear run, it was down due to engine problems.
We have not made it back since. Wish we could though. We have been too busy.
Great racing. Loved the AT-6 finals start. Missed seeing the bear run, it was down due to engine problems.
We have not made it back since. Wish we could though. We have been too busy.
Well if you're keeping track, the Bear has won the last two years and Dago Red doesn't race anymore - Imagine losing a highly modified P-51 to you wife in a divorce!
And to stay on topic about the car, I need a new charcoal canister, and then check for vacuum leaks, right?
thanks,
DT
And to stay on topic about the car, I need a new charcoal canister, and then check for vacuum leaks, right?
thanks,
DT
| QUOTE (deserttoad @ Feb 7 2006, 10:42 AM) |
| And to stay on topic about the car, I need a new charcoal canister, and then check for vacuum leaks, right? thanks, DT |
Around here, staying on topic is unexpected. We kinda wander back on topic after a bit of straying. We are not on topic nazis here.
The charcoal canister won't keep your L-jet system from running correctly.
But the vacuum leaks will. Start with the injector seals and the boots between the plenum and the runners. Also remove the rubber tube between the air flow meter and the throttle body. The are notorious for cracking in the folds and causing false air. BTDT.
air races!
2nd most fun ive had in reno besides hot august nights
2nd most fun ive had in reno besides hot august nights
Mebbie we should have a get together at the Reno air races???
Anyone in that area want to organize it?
We could see if a Bearcat can leak oil faster than a 914....
Anyone in that area want to organize it?
We could see if a Bearcat can leak oil faster than a 914....
| QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 7 2006, 09:21 AM) |
| Mebbie we should have a get together at the Reno air races??? Anyone in that area want to organize it? We could see if a Bearcat can leak oil faster than a 914.... |
Hmmmm well i live there (reno) and should have a house rented by then... so it could be party central perhaps?
That would make for a fun time. Now that I think about it, they guy I go with has a buddy who is a 914 nut, and I think he's in the process of taking a stock motor and making a race motor of sorts...I'll have to check into it more.
And you guy finally got me jazzed up enough, I just went out and hooked up my jumper cables, and that little car started right up!
Strange thing, the heater fan came on too, it hasn't worked since I got the car, but the tach was only working about half way - aren't electrical problems fun? It revs up real quick and sounds good, but it's hunting real bad at an idle, that sound like a classic vacuum leak?
Woo Hoo! It still runs!
and thanks again!
And you guy finally got me jazzed up enough, I just went out and hooked up my jumper cables, and that little car started right up!
Strange thing, the heater fan came on too, it hasn't worked since I got the car, but the tach was only working about half way - aren't electrical problems fun? It revs up real quick and sounds good, but it's hunting real bad at an idle, that sound like a classic vacuum leak?
Woo Hoo! It still runs!
and thanks again!
| QUOTE (deserttoad @ Feb 7 2006, 09:52 AM) |
| That would make for a fun time. Now that I think about it, they guy I go with has a buddy who is a 914 nut, and I think he's in the process of taking a stock motor and making a race motor of sorts...I'll have to check into it more. And you guy finally got me jazzed up enough, I just went out and hooked up my jumper cables, and that little car started right up! Strange thing, the heater fan came on too, it hasn't worked since I got the car, but the tach was only working about half way - aren't electrical problems fun? It revs up real quick and sounds good, but it's hunting real bad at an idle, that sound like a classic vacuum leak? Woo Hoo! It still runs! and thanks again! |
score @ it running
if you need parts or anything from Reno id be more than happy to run stuff out to ya
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