I am thinking about pulling my engine its a 2.0 I have printed and read the "engine removal" article at pelican. Is there a guide/book to rebuilding the engine. The engine actually runs good, but I want to replace seals/gaskets and anything else that would need to be done while I have it out.
Thx
Steve
Full Version: Engine rebuild Guide
...Jake Raby video?
Get the Jake Raby Video from the Type4store.com
Be careful! You seem extremely vulnerable to Dirk Wright disease. If it runs well I guess I have a hard time understanding a rebuild unless you want more hp. If you are worried about old seals you can replace them without a complete teardown. Rear(flywheel O-ring also) and front mains are easy to get to with the engine out and pushrod tube seals can done with the engine in the car. Oil cooler seals require the tin to come off. About the only oil leaks that might need a aplit case are galley plugs and oil pump.
If you really want to tear it down get Jake's video.
Dave
If you really want to tear it down get Jake's video.
Dave
Yeah, I may not do a complete rebuild, but I want to replace seals/gaskets. The engine is really dirty, I just thought it would actually be easier to drop engine, then just take my time and replace what needs to be replaced and clean it good, maybe paint valve covers ect. Someone left the tin apart down below the alternator, I have been unable to get it back together, can prob see why when the engine is out. The car is actually over in the classifieds, but the more I drive it the more I want to keep it. It has started making a noise, I thought the belt was loose, but tightned it, and it still does it. Does it quietly (sorta) at idle, stops at normal drive.. makes noise again when taching up (right before changing to next gear), think it may be a bearing in the fan or alternator.
Guess I just totally went off the main topic here
thx
steve
Guess I just totally went off the main topic here
thx
steve
are you thinking top-end only, or complete tear down?
Jake's Video is what I would go with, but the "how to rebuild your VW engine" book is good too...
Jake's Video is what I would go with, but the "how to rebuild your VW engine" book is good too...
Get someone to follow you that will watch for smoke and report to you. When there is blue smoke can give you some general info about the valve guides and rings. After that, I would get it good and warm then do a compression(a little help) check and a leakdown check (more help). With that info you can make an intelligent decision about a rebuild.
Depending on what you find out you can decide if you want to drop the engine. I can almost promise you that if you drop the engine the project will grow (Dirk Wright disease). Once you know what you are in for in general terms drop the engine and either clean up and replace seals, do the top rebuild or tear it down. The further you plan to go the more things that you will add.
Dave
Depending on what you find out you can decide if you want to drop the engine. I can almost promise you that if you drop the engine the project will grow (Dirk Wright disease). Once you know what you are in for in general terms drop the engine and either clean up and replace seals, do the top rebuild or tear it down. The further you plan to go the more things that you will add.
Dave
Thanks for all the info, I would be totally lost without this forum.
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
Compression test and or smoke. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Drop the engine. Freshen up the vacuum hoses, fuel lines. Maybe pull the oil cooler and put on new seals. Then pull the oil return tubes that are leaking and put in new o-rings. Then if your really want in look nice. Pull all the tin, straighten and paint. It will look brand spanken new.
Then give it a double tune up. Do everything twice.
Fill the fridge with beer. Turn up the classic rock station and have a great weekend.
The car I found 3 years ago in barn in central WA. Has 130 lbs compression. NO leaks. And starts like a new car. ( took all last weekend to figure what I had screwed up ). This am, 15 degrees went out to start it for my son while he was in the shower. Reached over turned the key. It kicked over and started up with the AAR running perfect. Warmed up and slowed down just perect. IT AIN'T BROKE SO I'M GOING TO TOUCH IT
My .02c for today.
Drop the engine. Freshen up the vacuum hoses, fuel lines. Maybe pull the oil cooler and put on new seals. Then pull the oil return tubes that are leaking and put in new o-rings. Then if your really want in look nice. Pull all the tin, straighten and paint. It will look brand spanken new.
Then give it a double tune up. Do everything twice.
Fill the fridge with beer. Turn up the classic rock station and have a great weekend.
The car I found 3 years ago in barn in central WA. Has 130 lbs compression. NO leaks. And starts like a new car. ( took all last weekend to figure what I had screwed up ). This am, 15 degrees went out to start it for my son while he was in the shower. Reached over turned the key. It kicked over and started up with the AAR running perfect. Warmed up and slowed down just perect. IT AIN'T BROKE SO I'M GOING TO TOUCH IT
My .02c for today.
| QUOTE |
| Get the Jake Raby Video from the Type4store.com |
I dont see it listed on their site..
Oh, the Jake Raby video and the Bug Me video are one and the same..?
My video was created to fill the voids created from what ALL the books overlooked....
Yes, my video was produced as a joint effort between my company and Bug Me Video. It is available at www.type4store.com
Yes, my video was produced as a joint effort between my company and Bug Me Video. It is available at www.type4store.com
OK thanks will get it ordered.
steve
steve
I watched it with my boy this weekend - very good. For a stockish rebuild I think you could use it alone and have a very satisfactory product.
Get the video. Plus, whatever everyone else said.
If you crack it open, you might as well ditch the stock cam, and if you upgrade the cam, you might as well do new valve springs, and new rod bolts, but if you're going that far...
Well, you get the point.
Tom
If you crack it open, you might as well ditch the stock cam, and if you upgrade the cam, you might as well do new valve springs, and new rod bolts, but if you're going that far...
Well, you get the point.
Tom
Steve, I'm in Roswell, Ga and have plenty of used parts, if you have bent tin or missing bolts / screws let me know. I have been rebuilding Type 1 (vw) and Type 4 (914/bus) for 30 years , about 2/3 a year , and I always keep a book open. feel free to email or call me if you get hung up. Al
ljgmere@aol.com 770-993-0648
ljgmere@aol.com 770-993-0648
I ordered the bug me video, does anyone know at what point it starts? I want to be at that point when the video arrives.
thx
steve
I have engine out and exhaust off
thx
steve
I have engine out and exhaust off
| QUOTE (ventilator01 @ Feb 7 2006, 11:42 AM) |
| I ordered the bug me video, does anyone know at what point it starts? I want to be at that point when the video arrives. thx steve I have engine out and exhaust off |
huge difference between replacing the seals and rebuilding an engine
just be extra cautious in removing the front and rear crank seals, you don't want to score any surfaces
| QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 7 2006, 11:22 AM) | ||
huge difference between replacing the seals and rebuilding an engine just be extra cautious in removing the front and rear crank seals, you don't want to score any surfaces |
mueller,
i've been away for a few months, but did you ever find out what car was in that widows garage???
The Bug Me Video starts with a fully assembled engine, needing a rebuild. The engine is torn down, and 100% assembled step by step in the video.
And yes, my pointer finger really is as screwed up as the video depicts!
And yes, my pointer finger really is as screwed up as the video depicts!
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