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boxstr
Well I finally got around to installing the Rennshift in the JLO car. Holy crapole, thats great. It actually took a little getting used to, thinking you were in second and only in third, need to make a few final adjustments. Very easy installation, all top quality parts and instructions were very helpful even if they are ion a CD,
I am reinstalling the center console and have found the panel that goe's down over the shifter to be way to small, I need to open the circle it up to about 3.5 inches.
Drove over to Jim Chambers and let him take it for a drive, he too was very impressed. I would have to say it was the best money spent recently on a new item for the 914 that I have found.
I would like just a little more spring push on the 1-2 shift. Still fine tuning.
CCLINRENNSHIFTERHEAVEN
seanery
Craig,

Take pics of the final install.
I don't think anyone has posted center console pics with a RS yet.
boxstr
Working on removing the vinyl from the bottom panel right know to enlarge the hole. I will send along a pic.
CCLINYELLOWWATERMELONMAN
Qarl
I picked up this black wheelskin shift boot at the John Walker Swap Meet for $15. Although it covers up the shiny polished base, I am still going to use it.

New AA (sigh) shift knob too.
Brad Roberts
Yes... James you listening ?? We need more spring tension in the 1-R area. The 4-5 is fine.. but after driving the shifter for 2-3 days straight the spring seem to give "up".


B
boxstr
Okay, here are a few pics of the process I went through to resize the lower panel to fit with the Rennshifter.
The jack plate was a perfect size to use for the new larger hole.
The panel that I am cutting is some wood paneling type material, from PO. I would like to adapt a metal or alloy material to fit, either paint leave raw or cover with vinyl or leather.
Actually I will make a call tomorrow. Look for it on your nearest classifieds in the near future.
CCLINRENNSHIFTHEAVEN
boxstr
3M spray adhesive and regular office stapler worked fine.
boxstr
Reversed comments. This is the larger opening.(See last image)
boxstr
Lower panel in place. I had to remove the allen head adjuster stops to fit panel. Easy to get back into adjustment.
boxstr
Shift boot suppleied with Rennshifter.
boxstr
And a leather shift boot added. This is the final look I am going for. One other thing is the top of the shift lever is turned down only a short distance, the MOMO shift knob did not go down as far as I would like. James??
Actually a very easy addition to any 914 or I am sure 911.
Thanks Brad for giving me the thumbs up on the Rennshifter, it helped me when it came time to decide wether to buy one. For those curious I went with the 33% model.
CCLINRENNSHIFTVILLE
seanery
The leather boot finished out nice, Craig!
boxstr
Thanks Sean, the other one that might look good is a rubber shift boot from the Sc or Carrera 911s.
CCLINBOOTHILL
rhodyguy
waffling, waffling, waffling. sticky tires or the shifter? one day at the ax and the money supply is headed south.

kevin
seanery
shifter first
Rusty
I really love my shifter, but I think the spring might be an issue for me too. I'm glad to hear that the problem isn't me. I, too, got the 33 percent reduction.

I've done several adjustments, but on very fast shifting, I seem to crunch going into second, almost like I just 'nicking' the gear. I didn't have that problem with the stock shifter.

Hope there might be a resolution.

-Rusty smoke.gif

Karl, I like the shift boot. Was that specific to a particular car, or just a generic?
Brad Roberts
LB. I had to really fine tune the adjustment for the tailshifter shifter. It took a lot of time to get the side to side setup correctly so the shifter would come out of the spring gate on its own and nail second gear correctly. I can use my palm and push forward on the shifter without thinking and hit second no problem.



B
JWest
OK, OK, I'm here!

Nice job on the console plate, Craig.

How much further would you like to see the shaft machined for the MOMO knob? Anyone else have input on this? I hesitated to do more than needed because I think it looks cheezy to have a step in the shaft that shows when using the stock knob, but maybe I can compromise.

Those leather boots look nice! The stock rubber '73 and later 911 shift boot looks good, is cheap, and works well, but it is about 4.5" diameter so it will not fit in a 914 center console.

Brad, yours is the first comment I have had about the springs. They are lighter than ones in the factory shifter, and I have not had an issue myself, but I want it to be good for everybody. I have ordered a bunch of different springs, so I'll let you know what I come up.

Lawrence, are you sure you are not just beating the syncro? You should be able to shift faster with 33% reduction, afterall.
Brad Roberts
Are the springs colored ?? can you send me 2 stronger springs for the 1-R side of the shifter ?? it should take about 3 minutes to remove and replace them. This may only be an issue for tail shift cars (the shifter springs do have to move more linkage pieces when returning to center).


B
Rusty
I suppose I could be beating the syncro. To avoid the crunch, I push the clutch in and pause mid shift to go into second.
scotty
Nice, Craig! smilie_pokal.gif
Did you have a leather boot on the stock shifter (if so, was that one too small)?

...and what does that funny red knob thing do? wink.gif
boxstr
Yes the leather boot was on a stock shifter prior to my installing the Rennshift. The little red knob is the defrost.
CCLINLO
Qarl
The shift boot I used is just a generic Wheelskins shiftboot... I think. Like I said, I picked it up new at the swap meet.. the little sign said Wheelskin shift boots.
silver six
QUOTE(Lawrence @ Aug 31 2003, 11:31 AM)
. . . but on very fast shifting, I seem to crunch going into second, almost like I just 'nicking' the gear. I didn't have that problem with the stock shifter.


Larry,

I have the exact same problem with my Rennshift except that I don't have to be shifting particularly quickly for it to crunch from first to second. It will crunch unless I pause for a full three or four seconds (or in the alternative I let out the clutch and then push it back in inbetween shifting). It doesn't bother me all that much because I don't use first all that often but when I need to get a really fast start I use first and then by the time I try to get to second it's crunch time. But I am more concerned about the fact that it is sometimes difficult to get into second from a standing start.

If any resolution to this problem arises I'd sure like to know about it.

Douglas
JWest
I think you guys are seeing the problems with reducing the shift throw on a worn transmission. It is more difficult to ease the stick into gear due to the reduced leaverage. It takes more muscle to get in gear, so the tendancy is to force it. It is often said that short shifters will amplify any shifting problems, and this is what you are seeing, I think. This is why the RennShift is offered in various throw reductions, because people have different preferences (and transmission conditions).

Douglas, the fact that double clutching helps really says that it is syncro related, and once the gear starts crunching, the dog teeth get rounded. Once they are rounded it becomes more difficult to engage cleanly, and this would include the trouble engaging the gear when the vehicle is at rest.

Second gear will not grind due to the gate springs. You may hit reverse or hit nothing (be locked out of engaging any gear) if you don't move to the right far enough on the upshift, but if you are actually finding the gear in the pattern then the shifter is working properly as far as gear position goes. Back inside the transmission you are either moving the second gear shift fork or you are not - there is no half-way selecting it.
ArtechnikA
QUOTE(James Adams @ Aug 31 2003, 12:38 PM)
How much further would you like to see the shaft machined for the MOMO knob? Anyone else have input on this?

Those leather boots look nice!

Brad, yours is the first comment I have had about the springs.

i'd like to mount my MoMo knob deeper too. -- it's one of the spherical ones -- just an alloy ball with a collar. i'd like to go as deep as possible (the shaft should bottom on the ball inner surface). i'm not troubled by a step - but if you gave us maybe 3" of narrow and a taper to the big shaft that'd be perfect...

i'd be glad for stronger springs both sides but especially the 4-5 side - i've downshifted from 4->5 (trying for 3) a couple of times. maybe i just got lazy but i must have learned this from the first couple days of using it - so i have to agree with the comments that said the spring weakened a little in initial use.

i haven't hit R on the 1->2 shift so i don't think that side needs -too- much improvement. i get crunches but every indication is just tired synchros...

as for a boot - i just use a standard automotive chamois - a tie-wrap inside at the top on the shaft, a bigger one around the base of the shifter. it's something i've done in all my cars for many years.
Brad Roberts
Dougs problem is worn second gear synchros.. and I bet LB's is the same problem. The 33% throw magnify's the problem. I will know real soon (when my next customer shifter arrives)..I rebuilt his box with NEW parts for 1st and 2nd gears.

Doug.. I have your MOMO shift knob. I brought it with me to the breakfast.. but didnt have your number with me.


B
jtf914
No problems on the 1-2 shift here, but I got the 20% reduction instead of the 33%. The lighter springs on the R-1 side did take some getting used to compared to the monster springs that were on the my stock shifter, but no crunching.
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