I found this weber site a while ago and just got finished reading it again. Its just really well written and has LOTS of good information. It is geared toward 912/356 motors, but the tuning information is universal.

Anyway, I would reccomend it to anyone with webers and anyone who wants to learn about those buckets with holes we call carbs

http://home.earthlink.net/~simeons/weber.htm

Well, it's obvious you can read from your statements, but did you understand it? dummy.................

Nice write up.
I can say that I have been there done that with my carbs. Just about all of it.


NOTICE NOWHERE IN THE ARTICLE DOES IT SAY FI IS BETTER THAN CARBS.

QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Feb 1 2006, 01:13 PM)

NOTICE NOWHERE IN THE ARTICLE DOES IT SAY FI IS BETTER THAN CARBS.

They didnt say a six was better then a four either


but we know it is

I like the way he explained it.

I have dual 40's on a 1600 DP beetle...
So, this is relevant.

One question.
He states idle mixture screw out 1-1.5 turns...

Then further down he says out 3 turns...

I have a rich running setup right now, so Im gonna check the floats, but the idle mixture screw sounds like my problem...

So, which one is right?

Rich

Try both, then post your results.

Hey Ron, that thing you sent me on the Dells was great. A lot simpler and even I could understand it

The procedure for setting idle mixture is the same as Webers, and I did it in 10 minutes. Red car runs like a bat now. Post it? I'm at the office and it's at home. IIRC it said 2.5 turns to start and then adjust.

Thanks!
always good to have another reference source. Very complete, eh?

QUOTE (MattR @ Feb 1 2006, 05:52 PM)

Try both, then post your results.

thats helpful.

Have you ever tried to adjust the idle mixture screw on dual 40's in a beetle....

Im thinking about drilling some holes in the fenderwell.

I really only want to do this once...

Rich

QUOTE (r_towle @ Feb 1 2006, 09:10 PM)

QUOTE (MattR @ Feb 1 2006, 05:52 PM) Try both, then post your results. thats helpful. Have you ever tried to adjust the idle mixture screw on dual 40's in a beetle.... Im thinking about drilling some holes in the fenderwell. I really only want to do this once... Rich

stubby screwdriver?

i'll stick to tomlinson's book and my own way of getting the linkage to open the same butterflies at the same rate. to each their own. the jetting info was good.

k

Kevin, care to share your proceedure of getting the throttles to open at the same rate?

I have custom drilled holes in the linkage arm on the carb shaft. the carb thaty is leading gets a hole further from the pivot shaft. carb that is trailing gets moved closer to the pivot shaft. once it is all mocked up
I drill new linakge arms in the locations that I finally settle on.
real PITA

Howard, could you post whatever was sent to you about Dells?? That might be a big help.

first, this is the worst task in the world with the engine compartment lid on. i trimmed the ends of the hinges so instead of 2 holes there are 2 slots. you just loosen the 2 bracket bolts a bit, and the lid will slide right off. this makes putting it back on an easy one person task.

i've done it a few times and never quite explained it clearly (i think) . what i had found was, with the idle adjust screws both set commonly, and then screwing the threaded rods in, i would wind up fighting one or the other. folks with carbs really need to get tomlinson's weber book. cb performance has it as do most vw shops/parts houses. their initial seup proceedure is clearer and more comprehensive than the link provided in the thread(imho). first, one has to decide how they want to approach the air bypass screws. fully closed or turned 1/2 off the bottom(as per tomlinson). one rod would push the other carb open or vise vera. so, eliminate one of the bind points. with the hex bar return spring attached, i back the pass side idle ajust screw off it's stop. the drivers side is now controling the idle speed. start the car. place the Unisyn on the the front venturi on the dr side. the engine pulses may make the needle functuate quite a bit. turn the idle speed up enough to calm the needle down to a steady reading. note the reading on the Unisyn, and switch to the same venturi on the pass side carb. the reading will prob be lower or higher. then adjust the threaded rod to get the same reading you got the dr side. when you're doing this the idle may fall off and the needle will start dancing. again, just turn the idle back up. tighten the jam nuts on the pass side carb rod, and recheck both sides. stick with one rod. don't go back and forth. turn the idle back down to 900-950rpm using the drivers side, turn the pass side idle adjust screw back in until it just makes contact. just for drill check the flow on all 4 venturies. get it hot and tackle the idle/air mixture screws. i hope this makes sense. i'll prob have to post it, read it, and edit it a bit.

k

QUOTE (Jerry @ Feb 2 2006, 07:16 AM)

Howard, could you post whatever was sent to you about Dells?? That might be a big help.

Here ya go.
Dell

i should add i run a Triad linkage. the stamped steel linkage i used that came with my first set of carbs was a floopy pos (performance wherehouse i think). so i stepped up to a cb. the linkage bases were too small for my my k&n filters. sent those back for a set that would fit. then the hex bar was too long. cut it to length and had to redrill the end as the ball ends and springs didn't fit. call cb and ask "where's the throttle cable holder?", " you'll have to make something up". crap. the Triad worked, installed perfectly out of the box. people seem to think that it's too much money for just a linkage but are willing to spend all kinds of money for other items. high end stereo, all kinds of bling,...

k