I was just reading a thread where Jake stated he liked royal purple oil. Has anyone been using it?

What is everyones preferances?

God save the queen.

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Feb 2 2006, 04:18 PM)

God save the queen.

Idon't get it

Jake swears by it, has information to back it up with dyno testing, road testing etc. I personally haven't used it.

ROYAL puple oil

monarch...

try the roast beef, i'll be here all week

bada boom.

b

I use it based on the recomendation of Jake and a few others whose opinions I respect. My engine was a little expensive (for a 4) and I want what is best for it.
cheers, Elliot

I live by the stuff...

I swapped it into my Pinzgauer engine and picked up a notable difference in MPG.. And thats a big ole military truck with an aircooled engine turning 34" tall tires...

I have 8K on the curent oil change in the 912E, that oil still has another 10-12K left in it before another change.. I have went over 20K with that engine on one change already and it just turned 94K miles in less than 4 years!

Nothing has yielded better oil temps so far- it kicks the shit out of Mobil 1!

IIRC, using a "GOOD" dino oil and changing it every 3k miles will yield the same results.

If I'm wrong then me...

here's the kicker:

ya'll ready?

how much is this stuff?

b

I think that Pimp boys (pep boys) carries it. next oil change I may try it out.

My buddy who drag races bikes swears by that stuff. I think they sponsor him a little.

My brother is big on Amsoil racing oil. Both are top notch.

I've read analysis of all the top non-walmart brands, they are all leaps and bounds ahead of mobil 1.

Either way... don't our engines leak enough? If I changed to synthetic now i'd be squirtin even more.

QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 2 2006, 04:43 PM)

IIRC, using a "GOOD" dino oil and changing it every 3k miles will yield the same results.

Nope, not the same. The fresh dino juice will not lubricate as well as the well-loved synthetic, at least if the synthetic is filtered properly. It will, however, not carry the same load of debris (filters are not perfect!) that the long-duration synthetic does.

My feeling is that, if you really want to do it "right", you use the top-quality synthetic and change it every 3000 miles.

I can't get myself to pour that kind of money away that often. Plus my engine leaks, which can get expensive with the $$$ oils.

To my view, a quality brand "dino" oil changed every 3K miles is acceptable. I can live with the cost/benefit tradeoff.

--DD

I use it.

(because Jake does)

Amsoil

Paul

QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ Feb 2 2006, 05:55 PM)

QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 2 2006, 04:43 PM) IIRC, using a "GOOD" dino oil and changing it every 3k miles will yield the same results. Nope, not the same. The fresh dino juice will not lubricate as well as the well-loved synthetic, at least if the synthetic is filtered properly. It will, however, not carry the same load of debris (filters are not perfect!) that the long-duration synthetic does. My feeling is that, if you really want to do it "right", you use the top-quality synthetic and change it every 3000 miles. I can't get myself to pour that kind of money away that often. Plus my engine leaks, which can get expensive with the $$$ oils. To my view, a quality brand "dino" oil changed every 3K miles is acceptable. I can live with the cost/benefit tradeoff. --DD

Dave,

Ya gotta quit going to school and hanging out with your lawyer.

I am in the middle of doing the top end and replaced the rings. There was quite a bit of carbon built up on the old rings. Do the synthetics have the same effect?

Jake, are you seeing lower engine temps with synthetics?

what are the best weights to use?

I don't have a problem spending the $$. If it is going to increase the life of the motor, money well spent.

QUOTE

Jake, are you seeing lower engine temps with synthetics?

Hell yes!
Reduced friction= reduced heat being generated. Heat thats not generated doesn't show up on the gauge!

when I swapped to synthetics in my Bus engine I was able to remove the external oil cooler altogether and dropped from a 210 to hardly ever breaking 190F, even in the middle of a Georgia summer while towing my beetle when I swapped to Royal Purple from 20/50 Castrol.

Synthetic rules.

Nothing wrong with doing the long-duration oil change bit BUT you still have to change your filter every 3000miles.

One of my buddies and my nephew are long distance truckers, oil changes for then aare by the pail. They send in samples to a company that checks the oil and tells them when to change the oil. Most times it's around the 35,000 KM mark.

Another buddy runs the local watercooled VW repair shop, he uses ELF semi-synthetic (15-40) in his customers engines and changes the oil every 12000KM, filter change at 6000KM. His price on the ELF oil is $40. Canadian.

Royal purple is only available at a few performance shops here, making it a PITA to get.

there are quite a few R.P. dealers in my area, none in my town. There is a redline dealer in town. How does it match up?

What weight should I get?

I purposely did not change the filter on the 912E engine for 12K.... when i did change it I cut into it and it was still clean inside...

I TRY to kill things though, its my job.

I like Redline, but it's not as nice to the engine as Royal Purple IMHO.

Charles from LN and myself are blending our own synthetic as we speak... The process has not been cheap and the testing is just about to start off in practical applications.

This oil will specifically be for the TI/TI/616 engines. I'm looking forward to the challenge!

It's not all that expensive if you buy it in 5's. A little over $20 per oil change.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Royal-Purpl...itemZ8026145392

you sold me on the R.P., what weight??

Hey Jake, you responded to a question here not too long ago about eliminating the head gaskets. I can't find the thread. what is needed to do that. I will be putting the motor back together soon and am wondering if I should do that.

Will it raise the compression?

what are the pro's and con's?







Did I just hijack my own thread??

Do a search on head gasket removal. The FACTORY has recommended it since 1981 and even sent out a bulletin...

I haven't used a head gasket in about 10 years-

I like 20/50 Royal Purple...

no luck with the search, I will keep trying, thanks for the info..........

Gasket removal???

Hey, Jake. I'm a big fan of your work... What does head gasket removal entail. I can't find info on it anywhere.

What it entails is not installing a head gasket when you pull the heads off the motor. You are, according to VW, supposed to add a shim to the cylinder base to maintain the correct compression ratio.

Some around here feel that the VW tech bulletin only applies to the VW-version motors manufactured after about 1978.

Most of those who believe in leaving out the gasket also like to use a fine lapping compound to lap the cylinders to the heads.

--DD

Jake,

Have you tried Motul?

Hey dave, How big of a shim? And does it hurt to boost the compression ratio this way for 110 fuel?

The shim thickness is determined by doing the math and setting it to the CR that you’re aiming for.

Aircooled.net has a cool CR calculator in the tech section of their site.

You can get the shims from Jake or Rimco.

this is the type of info I was looking for.

I have surfaced the top of the cyl. on a piece of granite tile. Once the C.H's come back from the machine shop I will lap the cyl. to the head.

I havn't gone on the sites to check it out but it sounds like I can't just remove the CH gasket without the correct base shim.

But the compression can be raised effectivly with the correct base shim?

My intentions are to use valve lapping compound to lap the cyl. into the head.

what other materials can be used to do this?

let's throw another factor in for fun. has anyone ever used an Oberg oil filter?

k

Yes, I have used Oberg... Holley has a new disc version that is MUCH better if you ask me.

what are the differences between these and say a Fram. Can you clean them?

QUOTE

has anyone ever used an Oberg oil filter

Yes I had an Oberg on my old racecar, currently I use Canton filters. The Oberg you can clean, and you can also buy differnent filter media ie 5 micron, 8 micron etc.

QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 3 2006, 08:26 AM)

what are the differences between these and say a Fram. Can you clean them?

Yes, it is a basicly a screen that you take out and clean.

here is the filter screen

here is the housing

sorry small pic

They run about $200.00.

QUOTE (MarkV @ Feb 2 2006, 08:50 PM)

It's not all that expensive if you buy it in 5's. A little over $20 per oil change. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Royal-Purpl...itemZ8026145392

That's a good deal, free shipping also.

QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 3 2006, 06:50 AM)

I havn't gone on the sites to check it out but it sounds like I can't just remove the CH gasket without the correct base shim. But the compression can be raised effectivly with the correct base shim?

The base shim is only to restore the compression ratio to stock. If you want a higher compression ratio, you can omit installing the shim. Just make sure your deck height doesn't get too small when you do this (you want about 0.040" I believe), and that your compression winds up in the range that you want.

I am told (but have not verified) that removing the stock head gasket results in "about" a 0.5 point increase in the compression ratio. But it depends on a whole lot of factors, and small changes in some of those factors can have unexpectedly large effects on the compression ratio, so you really want to measure and calculate the actual ratio you are getting.

--DD

In general when an aged motor is switched to synthetic oil doesn't that clean out a lot of the junk in the motor that has otherwise been preventing leaks?

My motor leaks in a few places, normal of course. Will switching to a synthetic oil cause even more leaks?

Thanks

I don't know about more leaks but it will sure leak faster.

Is there a problem switching from dino oil to synth. on a higher milage motor?

It looks like those filters are for inline use on an oil cooler, do they make them like the standard screw in type?

I tried to find the calc. on aircooled.net, couldn't. I'm sure I could call Jake or Rimco and they would know.

If you're at all concerned about leaks, RP is the oil to try. By design, it's a Group III (based on dino oil). I ran some in my '70 911T and no leaks. Switched over to Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 (high zddp content) and leaks galore. Next oil change, i'm going to use either RP racing or max cycle. No more starburst approved oils for me. :-)

re RP. charles, would one have to wait a period of time (break in) before running it in a freshly rebuilt engine? jake, when you ran an Oberg, did you attach it in the same place where the stock filter is?

k

Still trying to find out if I can take the head gaskets out and use the stock base shim? Will this raise the compression too much?

Just to tell this one more time.
MEASURE IT then CALCULATE IT, then MEASURE IT again.
Assemble and drive the piss out it with Royal Purple oil.

Start a spicific thread with "head gasket" in the title.

The question is buried in a oil thread.

P

I was told by a partially reputable source that Royal Purple used Redline as the base of their oil with different additives.

Has anyone else heard the same?

Nope, Redline is a Group IV or V (can't remember which at the moment), whereas RP is a Group III. I can tell you that from testing them that they most definately are not the same.

QUOTE (cnavarro @ Feb 6 2006, 07:32 PM)

Nope, Redline is a Group IV or V (can't remember which at the moment), whereas RP is a Group III. I can tell you that from testing them that they most definately are not the same.

So does RP give better:

Wear Protection?
Heat dissipation?
Horsepower?

Over redline or other syn's