Ok, a few minutes ago I asked about getting to the allen bolt that is accessible through the trailing arm in order to spread the caliper and get the new pads on. Allan(headrage) was kind enough to give me the correct info. However, I still can't see and/or move shit back up in there. Is it easier to just take the whole caliper off? So far I have made zero progress on spreading the caliper to get the new pads in. Is this really this difficult???

If you can get up under the car, take a flashlight and try and see through the trailing arm into the caliper. There is a small cylinder shaped adjuster that sits in there. Make sure it is still there. Sometimes people either don't put the plug back in and they fall out or they come out when people do the adjustments and don't put them back in. (Eric Shea says that he gets calipers with the adjuster missing alot) Even if it is there it takes a little wiggling around with the allen wrench to get it to seat into the adjuster. Even when you find it and can turn it you'll still need to spread the pads apart with something.

If you haven't already, take a look at the Pelican article on replacing brake pads. There are some photos to help out.

This drove me nuts the first time I did it as well.

Well, yeah, it is usually difficult to do. It IS probably a good idea to remove the caliper. If the cover is still in place, then whack it with a hammer (just the cover, not the caliper!). Then if the key hole is nice and clean, try using the key. Sometimes an impact driver with the suitable key in a socket works good. Sometimes heat helps. Sometimes a cold chisel is necessary, then you get a chance to buy an new cover. If the adjuster is still in there, turn it counterclockwise to retract the piston (it is geared, so the inner is backwards from the outer adjuster. If, with considerable effort you can't get the pistons to retract, then get Eric to rebuild them. I provide the same service for Canadians.

YOU MUST PRY THE PISTON BACK WHILE TURNING THE SCREW! Failure to do so can, and likely will, put you in a place you DON'T wanna be ......... The screw will disengage and your caliper will no longer work properly. The Cap'n

Ok, first of all, the Pelican article is the best advice of the day! It is dead on and easily followed. Passenger side is done. Driver's side....well the damned cover plug stripped and of course I don't have the needle nose vice grips to get it loosened. Off to the store I go.

Cap'n - I did have one person prying while the other turned. We are ok! Good advice.

Call me.

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Feb 6 2006, 05:09 PM)

YOU MUST PRY THE PISTON BACK WHILE TURNING THE SCREW! Failure to do so can, and likely will, put you in a place you DON'T wanna be ......... The screw will disengage and your caliper will no longer work properly. The Cap'n

not only that but what you think is un-doing it is the opposite. turn it clockwise.

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Feb 6 2006, 04:37 PM)

Call me.

Call Eric.

He helped me when I rebuilt my rears.

QUOTE (MW 914 @ Feb 6 2006, 04:20 PM)

Ok, first of all, the Pelican article is the best advice of the day! It is dead on and easily followed. Passenger side is done. Driver's side....well the damned cover plug stripped and of course I don't have the needle nose vice grips to get it loosened. Off to the store I go. Cap'n - I did have one person prying while the other turned. We are ok! Good advice.

Youbetcha! BTW, the plug is most easily removed with a long sharp chisel. Bust it loose and turn it out. The Cap'n

Ok, it is done and all is put back together!

Two problems:

1 - My pedal has that sinking feeling then with a few pumps is ok. I thought that I would not need to bleed the brakes when all I did was replace pads? Am I wrong?

2 - My E-brake is useless. The Pelican article mentions nothing about this and they don't have any other articles on it. I checked.

Any advice on problems 1 or 2?

Thanks for the help as this is obviously my first time venturing into the brakes.

QUOTE (MW 914 @ Feb 6 2006, 07:05 PM)

My E-brake is useless.

Venting clearance is too much and brakes need more bleeding....

QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 6 2006, 07:09 PM)

QUOTE (MW 914 @ Feb 6 2006, 07:05 PM) My E-brake is useless. Venting clearance is too much and brakes need more bleeding....

Hmmmm....4 1/2 hours into this so far and now I need to take it all apart again to adjust the venting clearance and I need to bleed the brakes??? In hindsight, I would have much preferred to write a check for a few hundred bucks and had it done at my local shop.

I might just still do that anyways.

Alright, I quit my whining and went back out to adjust everything.

If I adjust them the rears to where they just barely dust the disc, everything feels perfect(except for the need to be bled) If I move the pads to where they are just barely wide enough to not touch the disc at all, my e-brake is useless. Does this sound right? The Pelican article says there should be .2mm of space. If I get that I pretty much have no e-brake. Thoughts?

QUOTE (MW 914 @ Feb 6 2006, 07:15 PM)

In hindsight, I would have much preferred to write a check for a few hundred bucks and had it done at my local shop.

BTDT

Best $100 i ever spent.

the last time i changed brakes on a car, i swore i would never do it again. sounds easy at first, but then,,,,,,

of course, that doesn't really help you.

hey, did you ever call on that link i sent you?

VENTING CLEARANCE IS .1MM

QUOTE (TROJANMAN @ Feb 6 2006, 07:48 PM)

QUOTE (MW 914 @ Feb 6 2006, 07:15 PM) In hindsight, I would have much preferred to write a check for a few hundred bucks and had it done at my local shop.  :headbang:  :headbang:  :headbang:  :headbang:  :headbang: BTDT Best $100 i ever spent. the last time i changed brakes on a car, i swore i would never do it again. sounds easy at first, but then,,,,,,

You know, as you can tell by the way I am tripping through this, I am usually the first guy to say, "take it to the mechanic". However, every once in a while I get a wild hair up my ass and the mood strikes me to try and learn this shit. Usually half way through I remember why I prefer to let the pros do it.

The bigger problem is, I start it thinking a couple of hours tops. Now I have to explain to my wife why changing brake pads has been going on since 1:30 this afternoon.

That assumes you have a shop you cantrust. Who do you think lost or stripped most of those? I believe that taking the caliper off is much easier in the long run. You dont have to disconnect the line, just set up some way to support the caliper while it is off that is solid and impervious to brake fluid. I always take the rear off to change the pads, and make sure the clearance screw turns well, then reassemble everything and set the clearances, put on the covers and bleed bleed bleed bleeed bleed.

hey, i respect you for trying.
for some reason, i have always had a hard time with brakes.

Test drive proves MUCH improved braking!!!

I give it one pump and then the binders are on! I'll bleed it tomorrow when I can get some help.

Thanks guys for all the help.

You can adjust the ebrake cables. I don't know of a good tech article and it's been a while (couple of years) since I've done it.

Address?