I can get all of the other gears.

I don't really need 1st, it's just a bit of a pain to get the car up on the trailer.

What part(s) typically wear out causing the 1st gear problem. It grinds like it is not fully engaging.

I hear this can be repaired by removing the works out of the back of the car with the trans housing still in the car.

Any ideas or experiences?

thanks, KT

( I took apart a spare trans today to do a peek-a-boo )

did it always do this??

or is this just recent?

make sure none of your linkage changed. ie, no loose cone screw or bushings in the coupler

if nothing changed....
could be combo of worn synchro, slider, dogteeth....

1st gear is $$$$$ to fix right

Dog teeth/silder. One...more likely both are shot.

QUOTE (J P Stein @ Feb 7 2006, 05:21 PM)

Dog teeth/silder. One...more likely both are shot.

I agree, and I doubt it's one or the other ........it's both, and the synchro ring as well. MAJOR dollars, BTW. The Cap'n

QUOTE

did it always do this??

No, it didn't.

I was trying to get the car up on the trailer at Sears back in Nov when it *happened*.

Today I found the bushing in the shift console had popped out and was hopeful of an easy fix. Nope.

Which piece gets replaced? How much are the parts?

Thanks, JP.
Which ones are those? Anybody got some pics to show me?

KT

Always check your clutch adjustment first. If you put the car in neutral for a few seconds with the clutch depressed, you should be able to go into reverse with no noise. If there is clash going into reverse, put the car in neutral, depress clutch, put it in 2nd or 3d gear, then try going to reverse again, all without letting your foot off the clutch. If you still get clash, you need to tighten up your clutch cable or move the stop on the pedal board further down.

First gear is easy to get at.

I had the same problem years ago. I removed the gear (without removing the engine or tranny) and replaced the dog teeth.

Fixed.

QUOTE (LvSteveH @ Feb 7 2006, 05:32 PM)

Always check your clutch adjustment first. If you put the car in neutral for a few seconds with the clutch depressed, you should be able to go into reverse with no noise. If there is clash going into reverse, put the car in neutral, depress clutch, put it in 2nd or 3d gear, then try going to reverse again, all without letting your foot off the clutch. If you still get clash, you need to tighten up your clutch cable or move the stop on the pedal board further down.

What clash? He said it pops out of first! The Cap'n, as Krusty as I wanna be .....................

Tell me more, Joe.


The clutch adustment is good. All other gears are easy to get and are quiet.


KT

Take the rear cover off and have a look.
The dog teeth on 1st should be sharp and distinct V shape....if they're rounded ....toast. The same with the slider......the opposing teeth are on the inside of the slider.
I've got some good ones laying around capturing dust.
New dog teeth are fairly cheap.....the sliders are the killers.


aye Catn' , popping out of gear is what I read.

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Feb 7 2006, 05:36 PM)

What clash?  He said it pops out of first!  The Cap'n, as Krusty as I wanna be .....................

Then dogteeth and synchro it is. Very easy to do.

A bad slider will take out new dog teeth quicker than you can say "son of a bitch"

OK, bear with me here.

Are the two pieces the one that slides, that is moved by the bronze looking fork, has teeth inside and the other one that is fastened to the shaft behind the speedo drive?

On pg77 of Haynes, parts # 14 and 26?

I have time to do this.


KT

QUOTE (trekkor @ Feb 7 2006, 05:12 PM)

It grinds like it is not fully engaging.

Make darn sure it's fully engaging before you open up the trans. If it's not getting all the way into first, it WILL pop out, no matter how pointy your sliders/dog teeth are.

With the car running in neutral, clutch out:

Carefully move the shifter towards each gear (except reverse) and note how far away each is from the neutral plane. They should all be about the same, and if first is farther from the plane, your reverse/1st shift fork may have slipped on it's shaft.

**EDIT** when you're moving the shifter around with the engine running and clutch out, just move it until you start feeling some resistance. If you get grinding before you feel ANY resistance, that syncro is beyond toast. If you push too hard or for too long you'll wear out the syncros, so be gentle. **END EDIT**

If that checks out:

Completely remove your linkage, and manually shift the trans into first. Then drive it around and try and get it to pop out. If it won't pop out the problem is linkage related. If it still pops out, open the trans.

Everything you need to know:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...anny_repair.htm

I agree with Bondo.
Check the easy shit 1st. You could be not getting full range of motion from you shifter.

That's what you get for painting it like a race car. Now it will REALLY suck the money out of your wallet.

QUOTE (bondo @ Feb 7 2006, 06:18 PM)

Completely remove your linkage, and manually shift the trans into first. Then drive it around and try and get it to pop out. If it won't pop out the problem is linkage related. If it still pops out, open the trans.

that's what i told him 2 weeks ago.

check and see if the tranny shifts into and stays in 1st with the shiftlinkage disconnected ...
Andy

QUOTE

that's what i told him 2 weeks ago

Ooops
I was so tired from the painting marathon, I forgot all about that.

Thanks for the link, Joe. I'll look that over.

KT

I think I'm leaning toward a C or D gear anyway.

Who has these?


KT