so I just bought turbo tie rods for the ol girl ...

I am not sure if the is something I should really try to install myself---

either way .. if I am putting in the turbo tie rods -- is it worth it to replace the berings and the bushings at the same time?

none seem to be to the point of must replace, but I didn't know if I would re doing the some of the same work that was just done if I go and replace with the poly bushings later

piece of cake. you can do it and use the labor saving on the alignment. before you remove the old ones, turn the wheel fully to one side, hold a straight edge to the wheel well and on the top center of the existing tierod. mark the wheelwell with a sharpie (a witness mark) and the point where the center of the tie rod is on the straight edge. do this for both sides. mark dif sides of the straight edge and label which side is which. upon reassem put the straight edge back in place and use the tierodcentermark to approximate the original setting. you will be close enough to get to the alignment shop.

k

when looking at the pics of the turbo s-- the end that conects to the rack doesn't have the fork thingy...


and should I do all the other bushings and berings at teh same time or doesn it not matter that much?

You will need a THIN 32 MM wrench to tighten up ends to the steering rack or a good pipe wrench on the joint. Some people recomend a drop of loctite before tightening.

the jointed end on the rack side is eliminated. it's easier to pop the tierod end out first. lossen the the rack end and turn the whole thing out. put the rack end in first then the tierod. get a very good penetrant. areokroil or pbblaster, loosen the tierod top nut a bit and use a liberal amount of the penetrant. i have found doing this a couple of times, over a couple of days before you start the job, makes things go much easier. i think the easy release loctite is the one recomended.

k

QUOTE

or a good pipe wrench on the joint

Ive used water pump pliers.. on more than one occasion

you bumped this so I assume you need some more answers...

So here goes.
when you go to replace the bushings and bearings, you will need to remove the tierod end from the spindle/wheel. Depending upon how that is done, you could damage the tie rod boot and then you gotta replace that part.

So, doing the whole front assembly is good insurance.
Each year I do ball joints and bearings...
autocross with hoosiers kills them quick...
But a normal street car, dont bother.

If your bushings are ok, and you have no desire to go to the stiffer setup, dont do it. Keep the bushings, and replace the bearings and bal joints when they wear out, just like any other car...

You can do all the work.
Get a good tie rod removal tool instead of the tuning fork type of tool, then you wont damage the boot.

Rich

thanks that answers that part -- so does that mean the 40-ish dollar tie rod wrench is a good idea on PP



but I still have a question as to the install of the tie rods.... is they a thread that details this... I am still a bit confused on ---

the end of the turbo tie rod that is oppisite the tie rod part is threaded... how eactly does that mate with a setup that is org inally fork and eye bolt...

most things I have seen say it is a bolt in-- direct replacement upgrade?

The wrench is worth buying if you don't want to grind one down yourself or put pipe wrench gouges in your new parts.

The ends of the actual rack are internally threaded. The entire fork/rubber bushing assembly on the inner end of the standard tie rod unscrews from the rack and the turbo part screws in. The innermost end is inside the accordian like rubber boot. Take a look at the pictures of the turbo part on one of the parts vendor's website and it should further clarify.

Hope this helps.

Brian

definately helps -- I didn't realize the eye bolt unscrews from the reack ... ... so the end of the turbo tie rod that screws into the rack will actually be covered by the new boot?.. right?

yes, make sure you save the round springs on your existing boots. 2 per side. slide the boots on after you screw the the rods in and before you insert the ends into the arms. you should have recieved 2 thick round spacers with your kit. they go on the rack ends of the rods. if you can afford it, just do the ball joints while your in there. the improvement in your steering feel will be shocking when all is said and done

k

This pic may help...

I've finally found the major advantage of the TTRs....other than the cool factor. The ERP bump steer kit fits them & not the stockers.

if you have an air compressor and an air chisel, just place the pointed tip in one of the notches in the old rod (rack side) and give it a quick chirp. 1 second, the old rod will loosen and you can turn it out by hand. the pointed tip placed in the dimple on top of the old tie rod end helps loads. helps break the rust bond and the vibration seems to get the penetrant down the tapered hole. if you only have the compressor rent an air chisel. the chisel tip works well getting the ball joint loose too. works like magic on the closing nut on the bottom. costco usually has a nice mutipack of assorted air tools. they're not high end pro units, but they do the job for a weekend warrior, and they're priced right.

k

so if you change to turbo tie rods and you lose the eye blot piviot .. it would seem that the the rack position shifts a bit -- does that mean the bump steer kit is in order?

not nessasarilly. if you plan on lowering the front end, you want to keep the tierods pretty close to parallel to the horizon to avoid bumpster. again, while you're in there, and you are going to spend the money for a good alignment, you don't want to be altering things after the fact. easier to put the bumpsteer kit in when the rack is not connected.

k