Any help out there? I am converting my 75 2.0l to Volvo girling calipers and can't get it bled properly. I have installed a new 19mm MC, all new rotors, new rear calipers, T for the proportioning valve, new Volvo 240 calipers with T's to put the two to one line conversion, SS flex brake lines and all necessary plumbing.

I have bled and bled and bled, etc... Started RR, LR, RF, LF in that order and have tried bleeding the two Volvo upper fittings in pairs and separately. The pedal is stiff after pumping brakes repeatedly with only 2"-3" of travel. When you let off and push slowly, the pedal goes 4"-6" and is mushy. Any help?

what did you do about the dual inlets on the volvo calipers?

a tee?

I'd suggest getting one of the power bleeders that you can pump up to 10# or so and that really does the bleeding well.

It almost sounds like the master has an internal leak.
Course, it could be that the ATE and the Girling are feuding.

I'd second the advice on the power bleeder. Those things are awesome. Pump up some pressure, open the bleeder valve, and the fluid come shooting out in a very impressive stream. If therer's any air, dirt, etc in the lines, it'll come out for sure.

I used a T for the dual inlet girling calipers and the MC is new (of course that doesn't guarantee it doesn't have a problem). By the way, what is ATE?

I will try the power bleeders, thanks.

Huff

QUOTE (Huff @ Feb 14 2006, 01:58 PM)

...what is ATE?

Alfred TEves is the name of the hydraulic supplier - the MC (and caliper, on some cars...) manufacturer.

Does the caliper have two bleeders? top and bottom...

I remember that on the volvo....
Its actually two different circuits...

Rich

It has two bleeders on the top (one on each side) and one on the bottom. Since I used a T, the top and bottom are on the same circuit.

Huff

Are you losing fluid?

QUOTE (Huff @ Feb 14 2006, 03:08 PM)

It has two bleeders on the top (one on each side) and one on the bottom. Since I used a T, the top and bottom are on the same circuit. Huff

yes, that is true.
BUT, you need to bleed both.
First the bottom one then the top.

They are isolated till your Tee fitting, and therefore both will hold air independantly of each other...

BTDT with several p1800's,,,great setup, but a bitch to bleed.

Rich

think of it this way....for each caliper, there are two individual calipers...

If you think about it like that..bleeding is not so bad.

Rich

By the way???

Are you starting with the rears first??

Thats very important.

1) RR
2) LR
3) RF
4) LF

Twystd1

You take a resevoir cap and install a tire valve, get a clip on air chuck, bleed your compressor down to 15psi, fill up the resevoir all the way, and bleed away using the same order as Twisted1 recommends. Make sure you check the resevior frequently, as you don't want to run it down too far. This works great, and no pedal pumping. It was the only way I could get the custom hydraulic clutch set up bled on my old 6 conversion car.

Thanks guys, I will try the pressure bleeding approach. My assistants are getting tired of the pedal pumping and it's costing me too many favors. Will let you know how it comes out. It should stop on a dime after the bleeding is complete. The Volvo calipers fit nicely and have almost twice as much pad area.

Huff

and get some speed bleeders, 4 of them, thread size appropriate for your calipers. i don't know if they would be common to the stock 914 calipers.

k