How much can I get away with? I've read that for V8 use it should be upped to .008 - .010 (approx .20-.25 mm). I have brand new SKF carrier bearings and ths stock side cover, if that matters.

Also, what's the proper way to measure it? The largest feeler gauge that will fit all the way around the cover? The largest feeler gauge that will fit all the way around with no resistance? I'm tigthening two opposite nuts as tight as I can get them with my fingers, making sure the gaps right under them are equal. (factory manual says "lightly tighten") Right now I can get a .012 feeler gauge all the way around but it's really tight in some spots.. a .010 goes all the way around with only slight resistance.

.008 to .010 is OK.

If you hold the cover on with 4 nuts on oppisite sides you should be able to get an even spacing around the gap. Feeler gauge should have some resistance, but not forced. I would try for .010".

If the gap varies, may be the cover is warped.

Ken

QUOTE (KenH @ Feb 15 2006, 08:48 AM)

.008 to .010 is OK. If you hold the cover on with 4 nuts on oppisite sides you should be able to get an even spacing around the gap.  Feeler gauge should have some resistance, but not forced.  I would try for .010". If the gap varies, may be the cover is warped. Ken

Hmm, well I'd guess it's around .011 right now. (I have .010 and .012 feeler gauges) The thing is the next size down on the spacer is a full tenth of a mm down from this one which would put me around .007. I'm worried that I may not have enough spacers to get the preload AND backlash I need. (I haven't even started figuring backlash yet, I have to set the pinion depth first) There is a chance that I can tweak this while setting backlash as I have spacers that vary in .1mm increments but I also have .25mm shims. I may be able to take out .05mm depending on what needs to be on what side.

Should I tweak the backlash at all to try and make this trans last longer behind a V8? It seems to me that less backlash would mean the gears are engaging farther down on the teeth where they are thicker, which should mean more strength... but if they bind when it gets warm, that's no good.

All the avatar/admin threads are pushing my on-topic thread off the front page...

Got to set the Backlass FIRST.

If you have not changed the pinon depth, on the shaft, or buy changing the case, etc. you can use the same thickness gaskets to set the Backlass and then tweek the pinon depth.

This may help. Take 2 old Diff bearings and open the ID till they just fit the diff. You can then easily remove them while changing the shims for both the Backlash and Pre load.

I opened the ID with a 1" round sanding tube and a hand drill.

Be sure you set the backlass at the outside radius of the Diff.

Call is you want to talk about it. 408-842-0616

Ken

QUOTE (KenH @ Feb 15 2006, 03:04 PM)

Got to set the Backlass FIRST. If you have not changed the pinon depth, on the shaft, or buy changing the case, etc. you can use the same thickness gaskets to set the Backlass and then tweek the pinon depth. This may help. Take 2 old Diff bearings and open the ID till they just fit the diff. You can then easily remove them while changing the shims for both the Backlash and Pre load. I opened the ID with a 1" round sanding tube and a hand drill. Be sure you set the backlass at the outside radius of the Diff. Call is you want to talk about it. 408-842-0616 Ken

The manual says to get the total spacer thickness (preload) first, then set pinion depth (gaskets), then set backlash (how much of the total spacer thickness goes on each side).

I have to do it all, because it's a total mix and match trans. The only parts that are a matched set are the ring and pinion.

What book are you using?

Ken

Factory manual, group 3.