Hi, I helped a friend install a built 327, 375Hp V8 in a 75 914, Renegade Kit (including Radiator) , They have been very helpful!!!!! We can't solve the radiator leak problem. We have installed extra grounds on engine(thought the water was positively charged). I believe 3 radiators have been in and out of the six times(starting to lose count). The guy's at the radiator repair shop call Him by my first name. What radiator works or what do think is the problem is?????? ???????? Please Help!!!!!!!!!!

Where does it leak and is it always the same spot for all the radiators ???
Does it leak when just sitting there or is it only when run - and how ???
What type / mixture coolant are you using ???

If you're running a full RHS setup, this one has to take the cake ...

need more info, did the rad shop pressure test for leaks and it leaks after install? Does it leak when heated or as soon as water is circulated? Was it a new Renegade rad, they are usually plug and play?

There was one Renegade owner (that Andys or Terryst know) who had a problem with their radiator and thought it was caused by electrolysis. Scott claims they spec the plastic elbows to prevent this.

Hi, Each time the radiator was repaired it was pressure tested, 50/50 mix distilled water. Each time it's installed it seams fine, the car is driven for a hour or two another leak develops. I am posting this for a friend, and I will check the details. This has been frustrating for him!!!! I am going to see him monday night and I will get more details! He now wants to switch to a chevy radiator. What radiators are you running????

355cid SBC

are you guys running an overflow tank? if not its probly puking past the pressure cap. normal if theres no overflow tank. if there is one make sure the cap on the radiator is a higher prssure than the one on the purge tank [this is were the over flow tank should go]

So what is done to repair the leaks? What is the condition of the radiator new or used? The Renegade radiator is aluminum so internal corrosion is possible. If leaks are appearing from just the radiator, then it is suspect. If it's electrolysis, the aluminum pump could be corroded as well. You should be able to measure resistance...

I've seen virtually every radiator work in a V8 914. It just takes correct flow and heat exchange rate, and no air pockets.

This fellow who had the apparent electrolysis problem ordered a replacement directly from Ron Davis (Renegade supplier) and gave him sizes and hose specs (exactly like the Renegade). Ron cannot sell the Renegade rad but if you gave hims specs, he'll fill it...

QUOTE (porsha916 @ Feb 19 2006, 11:10 PM)

Hi, Each time the radiator was repaired it was pressure tested, 50/50 mix distilled water. Each time it's installed it seams fine, the car is driven for a hour or two another leak develops. I am posting this for a friend, and I will check the details. This has been frustrating for him!!!! I am going to see him monday night and I will get more details! He now wants to switch to a chevy radiator. What radiators are you running????

What is a "Chevy" radiator?

Only thing different from a Chevy or Ford or Honda or ??? radiator is the location of the inlet/outlet and size.

What kind of time frame is this happening?

Is the rad. brazed or epoxied?

Are you sure the car is not rusted or structually weak to be causing the radiator to be stressed or tweaked?

QUOTE

the car is driven for a hour or two another leak develops.

you are talking about leaking from THE RADIATOR, right?

electrolisis happens over time. not a week or a day.

you could do what we did on our Cal 24 and attach zinc's to the radiator. electralisis will eat up the sacrificial zinc before the aluminum. but i'm sure that is not your problem...

you siad the water was positively charged.. how was this measured? volt meter (pos) dipped in the water and the (neg) grounded?

I have the first generation three core copper RH radiator. My v8 put out over 1000 HP, never had a problem. I have upgraded to the new style RH aluminum rad. Letting the first generation RH rad plus the RH H20 pump go for $500.00 us plus shipping. PM me if your interested. Any one?

I'd check the way the radiator is mounted in the car. It should be in some type of rubber mount.
Do the fans vibrate when they run, hit the core or out of balance?

Where are the leaks, where the core is welded to the reservoir tank or in the core itself?

Looking at the core can you see if any of the tubes look like they are expanded? Its hard to belief that you had this happen so many times. The Ron Davis radiator is as good as it gets.

Bob...

QUOTE (BIGKAT_83 @ Feb 20 2006, 03:28 PM)

I'd  check the way the radiator is mounted in the car. It should be in some type of rubber mount. Where are the leaks, where the core is welded to the reservoir tank or in the core itself?

I am with Bob, check how it is mounted. If it is mounted to a solid frame, then you can stress crack at the tank welds pretty easily. they need to be on a "sloppy" rubberized mount. Not sloppy enough to bounce around, but not so tight the rubber starts acting like a rigid interface either.

RH uses Ron Davis radiators, so I would be surprised if it was the rad. RDavis stuff is pretty solid and nice. I have a PWR just because I got a good deal through my old boss, otherwise I was going to go with RDavis.

Also, previously someone mentioned what you meant by a Chevy radiator and I agree with there response - it has nothing to do with aftermarket radiator makeup, just how the outlets are sized and configured.

That said, IIRC Tim at RDavis used a dual pass, 14"x30"x1" in/out chevy-style radiator (both openings on the passenger side - Ford is both on the drivers side FYI). I have a 16x26x1-1/4 in/out Chevy-style dual pass. We both have 1" tube - 2 row cores. Your RH should be somewhat similar to Tim's I think...

Rad should be fine though, check the mounting...

If you have indeed gone through three radiators, then I suspect it is not a radiator problem. The problem very likely originates elsewhere.

I would personally never solid mount a radiator, though I see this quite frequently. Compliant isolation mounting is crucial. If as mentioned, the fan(s) are hitting the core, you will crate a leak....Perhaps not verifiable until the fans are actually running. Are the hoses pulling at the radiator/outlets? Any shrouding that's hitting against the radiator? Is the hood closing against the top of the radiator? Is there an errant screw somwhere such as a sheetmetl screw wrongly placed or pehaps too log? Lots of questions come to mind; you'll just have to be diligent and not get locked onto one thing.

I don't believe the quality of the radiator is suspect here, regardless of who makes it.

Andys

The guys bring up good points about the mounting.

Something else to think about.

Is is possible you are over pressurizing the cooling system? Headgasket or excessive waterpump pressure? Do you have any way to test that?

Are you running a thermostat?

I too am wondering where the leaks occur.

QUOTE (dan10101 @ Feb 20 2006, 05:39 PM)

The guys bring up good points about the mounting. Something else to think about. Is is possible you are over pressurizing the cooling system? Headgasket or excessive waterpump pressure? Do you have any way to test that? Are you running a thermostat? I too am wondering where the leaks occur.

Try a lighter cap. You may have trapped air over pressurizing the system. I'm running a Howe double pass aluminum radiator with a surge tank off a Mercedes. Watch the amount of pressure your running.

I looked at the mounting again, and it was mounted a little firmer than I would have mounted it. but there was some movement. The radiator is mounted on foam rubber completely around it, and between the intake shroud. It always starts leaking after being driven a hour or two, where the coolant fins attach to the ends of the Radiator. I suggested Rubber mounting only the four corners. The car is very clean (no visible rust), I don't think the car is flexxing to much.

Please show me how you mounted your Radiators(pics & Info Please).

Thanks
Bill

Sounds like the core is loose from the tank(s)
Mark

These very thin cooling fins/tubes are susceptable to wear from rubbing by the fan shroud and mounting bolts.

I'd recheck what is coming in contact with it.