Howdy folks,
I just talked to a friend of mine in Reading, PA who seemed like he would be very resonable on the price of a paint job depending on how bad the car is body wise. He gave me a ballpark of $1000-3000 for a car that is a 6-10 body wise. He of course cautions that it will be on a case by case basis as he will not do half assed work. He is a car nut like us and I would trust him with my car...actually he is repairing my bumper and painting it now.

His name is Aaron and you can reach him at:

cdeviantdesigns@yahoo.com

I have his cell if yall want it, but I dont want to post it.

Just your new homey from the left coast trying to keep the rust at bay!

Oh, I am not proffiting at all for my endorcement or advertizing. Just looking out.

Thanks I may need a painter really soon. None of these guys in NY are worth a dam. They just make it pretty and send you out the door. Never mind if a rust bubble pops up 3 months later under there bonda hack job.

Ya, I tried to see what he would charge for an Aamco, Maaco like job but he wouldn't even dream of half assing a paint job. He has done a lot of custom work on motorcycles, too.


I willhave to bump this in the morning as I realize most of the EC people are probably snoozing right now.

Now me, I'm studying cancer genes

Good morning East coasters

Any idea what his schedule looks like? Interested in turn around time. Was going to paint my car myself, but I would love to farm it out if I could someone I trust. My tub has all metal work completed and is ready for plastic and paint. It's on a rolling rotiserie and would/could be delivered that way.

OK...I'll

Thanks for the contact! If I ever get my ass in gear and finish my rust repairs I'll need paint. Reading is not too far from Philly...'bout an hour. I'd like to talk to him when I get a little father along to see what prep work I could do (or shouldn't do!) to save me some $$$.

Thanks for the info Evil....it's good to see some East Coast information/resource sharing. I use all the help I could get.

...hopefully I could make it out to Hershey and meet some of you 914cluber's.

Sounds like a plan to me!

I'm going to be working on another tub here in the next 6mos or so. I was going to have the thing acid-dipped in central PA. It'd be pretty cool to send it to PA as a 7, and have it return as a 10.

Cpt Tripps and Dr. Evil in the same thread!

where in PA is he??

im looking to get my roller finally painted this summer

QUOTE (Dr Evil @ Feb 23 2006, 11:49 PM)

Now me, I'm studying cancer genes

t(9;22)(q34;q11)?

Hello everyone I'm Aaron Dr Evil's paint guy. I wanted to put a post up and let all know that I'm available. If any of you have body questions please ask before you might make a problem. I'll always try and help when ever I can I have a been a full time body man for 8 years now. I work full time at well respected large truck repair shop. I do a bit of everything there so i can help and do most anything you can ask for. My shop does plastic media blasting (CptTripps this would be a better idea for you then the acid dipping to strip your car. Acid dipping gets into every nook which leaves seams and hidden areas that once had paint left on now bare. The plastic doesnt warp the metal at all and give you the option of not disassembeling everything to dip and then we would go back and lightly dust the rusty areas with fine abrasive. Its a great way to start the project before starting to replace panels to have nice clean metal to weld on) I will try and get some of my project pictures up so you can look at the work I've done. I work with fiberglass as well i make my own custom pieces. If you have any questions please email me, I will answer your questions for what work I can do and any questions I can about body finishing you may be doing yourself

Wazzup Aaron!

I was very happy to find someone who is not only as into cars as the rest of us, but also proud of his work.

Aaron, you are gonna have to post here a few more times before the site will automatically allow you to post pics of some of your work. Just FYI.

Mud foot,
Yup, (t9:22), (t8:14), C-MYC, V-MYC, and other viral oncogenes related to the understanding of carcinogenic factors.

Doug, make sure to say hi when you stop by this way.

Anyone wanting to meet up for HErshey there is apost for that already. I am lookin forward to meeting a lot of you guys that I havent already.


Also, I am working with Aaron to find out if he can fabricate some specialty parts for our cars (like 911 door pockets and arm rests). I can't wait to see what we can do.

hi Aaron,
Here's a question for ya then...I see "needle guns" on sale at Harbor Freght for $49. Some people call them 'Scalers' (a pnumatic impact device that uses several [15-20] small steel rods to randomly chip paint and rust).
I'm thinking it might be purrrfect for rusted jack points and battery trays for general cleanup. It's sheetmetal that doesn't really show and would be made ready for POR-15?
Opinion?
Oh and

where in Reading are you, I am right down the road from you.

To tell you the truth I havent used a needle scaller before. I generally use abrasive blasting it cleans the metal entirely leaving a good base to work with and weld on it is messy though. Harbor frieght also carries small hand held blasters that are perfect for home workers and profesinals alike theyre great to clean up small areas. Its at this link http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=45998
Get a bag of coal slag (black beauty) its not as health endangering as sand and block the area with plastic or i even hold the tip between my thumb and palm (wear a heavy leather glove) and cup over the area im blasting to keep the mess less. As for the scaler though for sheet metal I would think it would be far too agresive and would streatch the metal so far before you would have the metal properly clean. Thats alot of force when those needles are moveing as fast as they move , theyre generally for heavier steel.

I'm near Penn State Berks Campus. I work out of garage without a advertised front. I'm not working full time on my own yet everything I do is on the side. My wife is in Med-school right now and I can't afford the risk of going out on my own now. I work with a former co-worker who is now on his own who is in the leesport area. He would be handling the larger jobs and jobs on a shorter dead line. He does excelent work and has several certifications for various autobody work and is certified to work on uni-bodies.

I have used needle guns many times while in the coast guard to strip rust and paint off of ships, but decks and bulkheads are very thick.

For a jack point it might be ok, but for the battery tray you may be pushing it. It might just bow your tray in, or exacerbate holes.

Hey Oliver,
Unfortunately this thread will probably not help you with finding a painter in OR. I would recommend posting a separate thread for that as there are plenty of resources up in your area that would be able to help.

Hmmm a good idea after I finish with this

Sure Doc...

After I just painted the damn thing myself you come up with this.

You would have come over here from OH?

Sorry man, its just fate.

Just wanted to put anouther word out for anyone looking for help. I'll help with whatever I can with body work questions.

can you do the underbody of the car as well?

Yes I have access to a rotissery which works well for striping the underside and painting. I also work with Speedliner which is a spray in truck bed liner material which is color matchable with oem paints and can be top coated with traditional automotive paints to give a high gloss easy to clean surface which holds up really well much better then traditional undercoating we've done wheelwells and the interior floor and trunk areas with great success.

What would you recomend for high quality a) single stange, and 2 stage paints? Which do you personally think is more appropriate for this kind of car?

Personally I perfer Utech which is a axo nobel line which also makes sikkins and a few other lines. I also use Dupont and house of kolor for jobs requiring a better finish. U-tech is pretty forgiving to new painters and was developed for less then perfect spray conditions so I would recommend it to the do-it-yourselfer, but as with any paint finish to get the best you want to have qualitly from start to finish. As for what would be best for your car its a budget and a quality issue. You can use a U-tech product which is a very good paint for the money exspecially thier single stages which I often use as a base when its a non-metalic spray it in single stage and then nip that and reclear over the single stage it holds up very well. Dupont and House of Kolor paints are excellent finishes and both have great clears and Dupont ussually has better color matches. If youre looking for an OEM job all the way you would have to find what would have been used from factory which might even be lacquer if its old enough and then find the maker which i would imagine would be Glasurit. That isn't nessiccary though unless you're looking for complete authenticity of the original their other paints available that will get the same if not better finish then the OEM when done properly. If you have any other questions just ask. good luck

QUOTE (deviant_designs @ Mar 12 2006, 01:05 PM)

Yes I have access to a rotissery which works well for striping the underside and painting. I also work with Speedliner which is a spray in truck bed liner material which is color matchable with oem paints and can be top coated with traditional automotive paints to give a high gloss easy to clean surface which holds up really well much better then traditional undercoating we've done wheelwells and the interior floor and trunk areas with great success.

awesome!

i have a roller that im looking to have repainted around the beginning of summer, ill get some more details as the time comes closer, just trying to figure out how much im gonna pay and where im gonna go, and the turnaround time

Ok good luck If I can help at all email me or if you would want more information from me of what I do just ask.