today I was trying to crank the 1.8 engine that's in the tailshifter right now... the 1.7 will go into it soon, but I wanted to see if the 1.8 was in good shape and could be sold as a good running engine... instead of a complete core...

fuel pump kicks one when I turn the key on, but the starter did nothing... so I pulled it off and put my spare(also was in question) on... it didn't work either... so I put the one that I know works on from my other engine... still nothing...

I took the original starter to Autozone... it only needed 4 volts to turn like a champ...

so, now that I wasted all day trying 3 starters and replacing all of the fuses(2-3 were missing) I am back a square 1!

how can I check the ignition-switch on the column? what else do I need to check to diagnose the problem? also, is there a reference somewhere that can tell me what size fuses go where, so I can double check this? it's not in the haynes wiring diagrams, where I thought is should be....
thanks!

Use a screw driver to jump the terminals on the solinoid and see if the starter engages. Make sure it is in nutral!!! If it doesn't engage it could be the battery or ground strap.

Jeff

Make sure you have the engine ground strap attached. It is at the rear tranny mounting.

Paul

ground strap is fine, but the battery may be a little weak... I'll try the screwdriver trick tommorrow...

asumming it's not the battery, what would be the next thing(s) to check?

relay

Here is what I do... pull the cover off the 14 pin connector at the REAR of the relay board. Look for the yellow wire(this yellow wire goes to the starter solenoid). Run a jumper wire from the battery over to that yellow wire... and touch it. If the starter turns over.. its something between that connecter and the column. Basically I work backwards to diganose problems like this (oh..I dont actually run a jumper wire from the battery.. I know which pins are hot on the relay board and I run a small short jumper to the yellow wire)



B

ok,

screwdriver test: positive, the starter turned immediately when I "shorted" across with a screwdriver... so the ground is good and the battery is strong enough...


B, I don't know which ones are hot on the board, but ran the wire from the battery... that works if I touch the wire, but I'm not getting juice through that board to the starter...

I swapped all of the round relays, besides a little corrosion(which I cleaned off) the relays made no difference... are there other relays besides these that I need to check?

I plan to have someone turn the starter while I use a test light on the board and figure out if there is any juice getting to that number 6 pin(to starter) on the 12 point connector..as soon as I can sucker someone over... or lure with a few beers

where should I go from here guys? thanks, you've been a tremendous help as always...

Andy was on crack. There is NO relay in the car that makes the starter work.. he *might* have meant the solenoid (his english is lacking in content).

Your best bet is to sucker a friend or wife to turn the key to the start position while you check voltage at the yellow wire. At this point I would pull the top off the front 14 pin connector and look for voltage at that wire with the key in the start position.



B

well, then you might want to add one ...

relay board could be toast. check the underside and see if the plastic is brittle and broken ...

Andy

When he checks voltage at the front connetor and the rear connector.. he will know if the relay board is bad.

Your not going to smack me down for making the "english is lacking comment" ???



B

nah, ai knohw myh englisch ish bahd ...

but very soon, i'll be doing this:

And you wont have to talk to me...LOL

B

My bet is the solenoid! I had one giving me problems when it got hot. Then it just stopped. I would turn the key on in the car and jump the solenoid to start it until I could fix it!

Jeff