Joe Bob
Sep 6 2003, 03:53 PM
drew365
Sep 6 2003, 04:02 PM
Looks like you're gaining a new deck also. Is that going to be your hide out?
Joe Bob
Sep 6 2003, 04:04 PM
Yeah....the deck will also have a hoop for the kids. I figure 22x25 will be cool for that.
Air_Cooled_Nut
Sep 6 2003, 04:17 PM
Gonna pour a 6" cement floor for a car lift? Can the ceiling support 2.5 tons for a trolly/hoist rail? 240v along side 120v outlets for welders/air compressors? Or a central location for the air compressor with hard lines threading the garage?
Come on, what are some of the details?
Joe Bob
Sep 6 2003, 04:36 PM
Already has 6 inch slab...that's code, 220 v is not an option w/o relocating utility lines and upgrading the service, so 110 and a 220v generator.
Will have cable service...both modem and TV with built amp and stereo system.....
elmonte
Sep 6 2003, 04:44 PM
Envious, only have one car plus small shop garage, wife parks her car outside
and i thank her for that
redshift
Sep 6 2003, 06:28 PM
You need a huge plasma, and a surround system, all tied to your network, so you can stream video.. with a nice camera, so you can stream both ways.
Everyone will have this in the future, in their underground helipads.
God, you have such a nice view.. I look out my window, and all you can see is ass... it's ass all over here..
M
Rusty
Sep 7 2003, 08:17 AM
You plan on driving up those stairs, Mikey?
-Rusty
Joe Bob
Sep 7 2003, 09:08 AM
Access is via a private road on the side.....butthead....
Rusty
Sep 7 2003, 07:33 PM
You gonna keep the cabana boys to rub you down with oil on the deck?
-Rusty
Joe Bob
Sep 7 2003, 07:39 PM
Cabana MENs......
Curvie Roadlover
Sep 7 2003, 07:50 PM
Looking at the tire tracks on the private road, looks like somebody had a "moment" there.
maf914
Sep 8 2003, 07:09 AM
Mike,
That's a pretty fancy roof/floor assembly, all pre-fab beams. What material will be used for the deck?
Mike
Joe Bob
Sep 8 2003, 07:22 AM
Plans call for a hot mop and roll type asphaltic shingle.....looking for something else to use that sheds water and can be used to play basketball......
Randal
Sep 8 2003, 01:37 PM
Looking at and reading your last post brought up 15 years of frustration with our deck which is framed over our garage. Our house is built into and up a hill.
I've ripped out the concrete two times and replaced various and sundry "waterproof" systems to try to eliminate the leaking, but so far have not succeeded.
The problem comes with heat expansion and use. Our patio is just for sitting and watching the golf course, bbq, etc. but regardless of the system I've used the heat expansion and contraction has always caused leads eventually.
For the last rebuild (rip out the slate, concrete and underlay to get to the plywood flooring and remove the porch siding) I've used elastomeric cloth and filler. First on the plywood and then on top of the slab and up the sides.
I've always wanted to ask Norm Abrams what he would do. Maybe a solid welded copper sheet is the only way; but how would that take the stress of basketball?
Anyway I'll be interested in seeing what you decide to do to use.
redshift
Sep 8 2003, 01:40 PM
QUOTE(mikez @ Sep 8 2003, 09:22 AM)
looking for something else to use that sheds water and can be used to play basketball......
Inner-city kids seem to do pretty well.
M
r_towle
Sep 8 2003, 03:57 PM
EPDM Rubber roof is a great seamless solution.
Caution, life span is fifteen years.
Cannot be directly exposed to UV rays or it will decay faster.
There are UV tolerant rubber roofs, but I would not use them. They dont seal very well.
After you get the roof down, put down sleepers, (2*4's on the flat....just floating there.
Build a curb around the edge to hold the entire floor from slipping or moving.
Then use the RIGHT LENGTH screws to screw decking to the sleepers.
In the case of a basketball court I would recomend possibly a redwood 1.5 inch thick deck material.
this system gives you access to the rubber within an hour or so once you unscrew all the decking.
Also Trust me here....pay up for stainless screws.
You will be able to get them out in ten years.
This system is common in the northeast for flat roof/deck systems.
We have to deal with snow and Ice which does a number on the expansion and contraction of different materials and I have found that rubber works best.
Besides that, rubber is home owner repairable with the right glue and the right rubber it is fairly simple.
You can also put concrete pavers directly over rubber (they sell a little pad that goes in between so the concrete paver does not actually touch the rubber)
Rich
drew365
Sep 8 2003, 05:25 PM
Mike; one other option. There is a decking system called Tufflex, it is used for commercial applications such as ski areas that get above average wear. There is a supply house in Santa Barbara called Decorative Protective Coatings that carry it plus many other brands. The owners name is Mike Rottapell, and the guy is a walking encyclopedia on water proofing. His number is (805) 963-3126. He's a great guy, tell him Andy Ritter said hi. I guarantee he will solve your deck problem. You definately don't want to put a hot mop material down.
JeffBowlsby
Sep 8 2003, 05:49 PM
QUOTE
You definately don't want to put a hot mop material down.
Right on. No hot mop for this condition.
Mike there are a number of ways to specify and detail a waterproof deck above occupiable space. While some of the above methods may be moderately acceptable, I would recommend a different approach. I am a Forensic Architect and I investigate building leaks and specify repairs for a living.
If your structure is engineered for it, optimally, use a concealed waterproofing membrane (flood test it for 48 hours), then protection board then drainmat, then a reinforced concrete topping slab, or mortar and tile finish. You need to assure that the water drains from the waterproofing membrane which must be sloped to drain (1/4 inch per foot) to drain. The top of the concrete topping slab can be sloped 1/8 inch per foot for foot traffic convenience.
If your structure wont handle the weight of the concrete, you need an exposed membrane which needs to be sloped to drain. Dex-O-Tex and similar products would be a good bet, but they need recoating every ~5 years or so to maintain their serviceability.
Either way, you need to resolve all the perimeter details, railing attachments, penetrations and other conditions to assure drainage and a watertight installation.
drew365
Sep 8 2003, 07:20 PM
Bowlsby; do you know a guy named John Bucholtz? I feel pretty sure you probably do.
JeffBowlsby
Sep 8 2003, 08:44 PM
Uh-huh. And his son Ron too...
Sounds like you know him drew...
drew365
Sep 8 2003, 09:41 PM
I know of him. He's pretty well known in architectural forensics. I've been an exterior stucco contractor for 23 years and am doing some consulting work on construction defect cases relating to leaks and wall systems. I've subscribed to John's newsletter for years. He appears to be quite a character.
Alexlitov
Sep 9 2003, 12:43 AM
You know we need more pictures!!!!
Malmz
Sep 9 2003, 09:56 PM
HELLO!!! Beer fridge. You didn't mention what kind of beer fridge you will have. Any you expect me to visit and do Sawzall jobs there..............................
sm
maf914
Sep 10 2003, 06:56 AM
Man, all this roof talk must have sent MikeZ into shock ($$$)!
Mike, are you still out there?
Mike
Joe Bob
Sep 10 2003, 07:32 AM
Waiting on call backs from the supplier(s)....only guy to return my call is the electric lift guy.
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