The connection has two wires, brown and green. The brown wire gets 12 volts. I can't get any reading off the green wire.

where does this wire connect?

The relay activates when the red lever in the car is pulled up.

any takers

try disconnecting the 2 fan wires on the fan, and hooking them up to a 12v power source. battery, charger, and see if it runs. if it runs, remove the green wire at the heater lever and check the voltage between it and and the chassis. see what those do and check back.

k

thanks for the reply, I know the motor is good already checked it out. The green wire at the connection runs all the way back to the engine bay?

I will check it out........

QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 25 2006, 09:13 PM)

thanks for the reply, I know the motor is good already checked it out. The green wire at the connection runs all the way back to the engine bay? I will check it out........

I meant, the green wire at the connection in the engine bay goes back into the cab?

what am I missing? I have power to the relay,relay is good, connection at the lever in the car is good, the levers on the dash are in the right posistion. I have continuity between pin 11 on the wire harness and the connector to the blower motor, the ground is good, fuses are good.

for some reason I am not seeing 12v at the blower motor connector

with the fan wires disconnected. have you checked the green wire from the engine side of the fan harness to the end at the floor lever for continuity? check that with your multi-meter. btw, the controls on the dash have NOTHING to do with the on/off operation of the aux heater fan in the engine compartment. they control fresh/warm air mixture and whether the warm air blows through the defrost vents on top of the dash or the vents on the bottom of the dash.

k

I pulled the defrost lever in the cab out of the tunnel, the connection is good(green and white wire). The relay in the engine bay activates when the lever is pulled, that would indicate a good connection. I checked the blower motor connector back to the pin 11 on the relay board that is good, the ground connection is good.

i don't know what else to suggest. cap the j-tubes so the heated air stays in and live with it?

k

Thank's for the help, it confuses me too, everything checks out, there should be power there.....

ok. i'm looking at p160 in my haynes. item #65 is the fan. it shows the green wire as comming out of the relay board, pin #11, and brown wires are usually ground. have you tried switching the fan harness wires? also, have you tested to make sure the little nub contact in the lever is functioning correctly? with the floor lever in place and fully raised, put one of your mutlimeter leads on the terminal for the green wire, make a good contact with the chassis with the other. does the m.m read 0 resistance? that's the whole circuit.

k

Just thought of something, does every thing on the relay board have to be connected? The motor is out and not all the wires are connected. The main connector is plugged in but the other two are not.

do they have to be to complete a loop??

QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 26 2006, 11:49 AM)

does every thing on the relay board have to be connected?

first, let's clarify ...

the brown & green wire, do they come out of the main harness under the relay board or do they come out of the engine harness?
the latter would be for an early car, but '73 is sorta inbetween ...

and yes, the relay board should be all hooked up. you won't need the alternator harness or engine harness connected to the relayboard (unless you got a early harness, in which case the green & brown wires are part of the engine harness)

you should be getting 12V on the green/brown with the defroster lever in the cabin moved all the way UP.

the two wires are 12V and ground, so you should be able to measure the current between the two ends.

also (important), the lever in the cabin has to be bolted to the chassis for this to work as it acts as the GROUND for the circuit!

Andy

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Feb 26 2006, 12:27 PM)

QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 26 2006, 11:49 AM) does every thing on the relay board have to be connected? first, let's clarify ... the brown & green wire, do they come out of the main harness under the relay board or do they come out of the engine harness? the latter would be for an early car, but '73 is sorta inbetween ... and yes, the relay board should be all hooked up. you won't need the alternator harness or engine harness connected to the relayboard (unless you got a early harness, in which case the green & brown wires are part of the engine harness) you should be getting 12V on the green/brown with the defroster lever in the cabin moved all the way UP. the two wires are 12V and ground, so you should be able to measure the current between the two ends. also (important), the lever in the cabin has to be bolted to the chassis for this to work as it acts as the GROUND for the circuit! Andy

the green and brown wire branches off of the main loom that goes to the relay board. while I was doing the test I did have the multi pin connector(closest to the fire wall on relay board) connected. the wire that is connected to the lever in the cab is green with a white stripe. when the lever is pulled it does activate the relay on the board.

QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 26 2006, 03:59 PM)

the green and brown wire branches off of the main loom that goes to the relay board. while I was doing the test I did have the multi pin connector(closest to the fire wall on relay board) connected. the wire that is connected to the lever in the cab is green with a white stripe. when the lever is pulled it does activate the relay on the board.

ok, good ...

what about the 2 fuses on the relay board?
did you switch relays, just to be sure it's not fried?

Andy

I did switch the relay's to make sure, same result.

Fuses are good. checked both of them end to end and there is continuity

QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 26 2006, 05:18 PM)

Fuses are good. checked both of them end to end and there is continuity

well, if you get 12V on the relay board, that means the switch in the pass. comp works ...

did you have the actual connectors that go to the relay board apart at one time?
it's easy to mix up the pins when putting them back together ...
Andy

On a 73 and later, there is a jumper wire in the 12 pin connector for the engine harness. If it is not present, the power never gets to the blower fan wiring under the relay board.


If you look at the attached relay board diagram, you will see a jumper between pins 10 and 11. That is the jumper. Without it there will be no power to the blower fan.

Son of a B.!!

Can you plug the connector in and test or do all the connections have to be made to the motor???

If you plug the engine harness in, then you risk shorting out the power lead for the coil.

I would suggest just putting a jumper between pins 10 and 11 on the relay board. Then your heater blower should work.

If you have an early engine harness (72 and older) the blower wiring on the engine will have to be hooked together to get the chassis mounted blower to work. Or you can put a second blower on the engine for the right side with that combo.


Oh.. and Betty says "It sucks that your car does not blow."

I will try the jumper, I have a 73.

Thanks so much for the help

I put a jumper across pin 10 and 11, and got 12v, perfect, thanks guy's