Well, on June 5th I thought I'd be done by 9/14:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...521&hl=siverson

but it I won't quite make it... but I'm close! I got the engine in this past weekend, and most of the hard work is behind me. 2-3 weeks and it will be drivable (I just work on it as time permits on the weekends), and by the end of the year I'll have the interior and everything done (whole project will have been almost 5 years at that point...)

First, some update pictures, and then I've got some random questions.

The project: The garage is quite small, but it makes me keep things organized (things AREN'T organized in this picture):



Going in:


It's in!


View through the window. Not to debate the merits have having an access panel, but... what about making this hole even larger (round?) and getting some strong clear plexiglass to cover it? I know it's probably a bad idea due to fires/etc (i.e. "fire"wall), so please someone talk me out of that idea: I'm thinking 914/Modena-esque...


Front blower area (what a pain to assemble, but it looks nice now. Most everything was replated, and with nice hoses (w/ clamps) the defroster seems to really blow very strong!


Oil cooler installed:


Question: I'm using an '84 914 w/ the Vellious kit and I believe that this is called a pull clutch. Does anyone have any pictures as to what these parts look like when in a 911? I played around a bit and lined things up like this (below) but really have no idea if this is correct. Any body familiar with this type of clutch? How do I assemble all these levers? Where does the clutch cable typically attach?







Question: I bought two new stricker plates that we're advertised as LH or RH for 73 or later (car is a 74), but they both appear to be passenger side. What gives? Does this part really work on either side? It seems like the left and right must be different... (I noticed it's also printed in Tweeks catalog as LH or RH)


I'm still struggling with exactly how to route the brake lines for my non-standard setup (993TT front, C2T rear, 23mm master cylinder, central brake bias): It is a -very- tight fit to get hard line into the rear calipers (front is fine using a banjo fitting). Should I take a large hammer to the trailing arm and make room? A banjo fitting won't even fit. Should I be concerned? See pictures of slightly "kinked" line:








Question: Does any one have pictures of cars plumbed with braided lines for the brakes? I'd like to see how they secured the brake lines to the chassis (and around the front struts, etc).

Thanks for any tips or ideas!

-Steve

Man it looks good. I remember seeing it for the first time at Glenn's place way back.. It has come a long way. That is ORANGE.

Is that oil cooler big enough ?? What about a fan on it for traffic situations ?? ala factory 964/993

Now lets see if I can shed some light on some of your questions..

1. Cover with clear plexiglass. I think it's a great idea (also make the hole bigger)

2. Clutch cable attaches to the small "hook" you see. let me dig up a pic of the part you need... BTW.. we convert them to a single short arm without all the return spring BS.

3. You have the wrong striker plate. They sent you two "rights".

4. That brake line fitting scares the living SHIT out of me. You need a banjo fitting with that line going straight into it. Not that 95 degree angle you currently have.

5. There is NO clean way to get the lines to the struts or the control arms. Most I have seen are zip tied to them.


B

Thanks for the info.

> Is that oil cooler big enough??

Yeah, I've never really had a problem with cooling. It's 24"x6.5"x2".

> BTW.. we convert them to a single short arm without all the return spring BS.

I'd love to see a picture of this...

> 4. That brake line fitting scares the living SHIT out of me. You need a banjo fitting with that line going straight into it. Not that 95 degree angle you currently have.

Yeah, that's what a thought. I either need to find a thinner banjo fitting or make a dent in the trailing arm for the banjos I have now to fit...

-Steve

Your car looks fantastic. I cannot help with your questions, but yo have obviously put time money and effort into this, which I will give props to

Just real quick.. while I'm still awake.. You will have to "dent" the control arm for the banjo fitting.

Porsche used 3 different arms.

Here is one of the two we use. They have a straight one and one that is slightly curved down but in the same config. The splined shaft running thru the tranny for the thro out bearing is IDENTICAL in all the trannies from 73-86 including 930 Turbo boxes.


B

Wait.. here is a better shot showing ALL the arms and what you are missing.

This is from a 1974 915.


B

see how #5 is straight ?

see how # 7 has a slight bend ?


Oh BTW.. your clutch cable wont work with what you have.. you HAVE to switch to the one of the other clutch arms. The 911 clutch cable has a eyelet on the end that slips over that small hook.



B

WoW! The primer looks fantastic! What color is it going to be?

Why not just cut that center hump out of a donor firewall, and leave an edge, cut inside it on your firewall, make a gasket, and bolt it up?

You are going to have some fun, man that's nice..



M

Steve stands at least 6'5 if I recall correctly.. you should see him get OUT of a 914. Its like a circus act. You think 100 small clowns are going to be following him out of the car...LOL Sorry Steve...


B

lol



M

Put in the plexi, and leave the backpad out. It'll scare the shit out of your passenger.

By the way the car looks great, awesome project!!

-Justin

beautiful car, great work.

kevin

Love that Orange!!!

Why not go to the hydraulic clutch route and get rid of the cables.
Brad, doesn't someone make a 90degree elbow that you could use on the calipers?

Nice looking car!

Geoff

Brad, thanks for the pictures. Those arm arms look a lot simpler. Do you have any? #5 looks best to me?

> Steve stands at least 6'5 if I recall correctly..

Yes, I'm about 6'6". I fit fine before, but I've now lowered the drivers floor about 1" too. Haven't actually tried it with a seat yet, but it should help a little more...

> Why not just cut that center hump out of a donor firewall, and leave an edge, cut inside it on your firewall, make a gasket, and bolt it up?

Yeah, I do have a donor firewall already to do this, but the engine looks nice and shiny sitting there, I thought I might show it off... Hmmm... Still concerned about the protection plexiglass wouldn't offer as compared to steel.

-Steve
(now looking for a clutch arm!!)

Steve.. number 5 will do it (and 8).. I noticed you are missing the clip.


I have them.. but you can also make them. Cut one end off that has the splines on it (from the spring arm contraption) and cut the end off of a 914 clutch arm for the clevis. Measure out and weld a straight tube between them. Basically duping the 915 straight arm. I hold onto all the ones I find (swap meets and such).. and make them when I have too (like the last 930 project TonyC made one for me.. I supplied the parts).


I wouldnt worry about the plexiglass. You will personally know something is wrong long before anything makes it thru the glass.


B

Steve,


Damn, that's a nice looking car. The engine looks beautiful and I dig the 3.6 badge in the Porsche script. I have no idea where you found that.

As for the firewall porthole I have a different feeling than others. I think the plexiglass is a bad idea for a few reasons. First is just basic safety. A firewall's primary job is to protect the occupant's from the potential hazzards of a running engine. It is not common, but on rare occasions engines do catch on fire or project flying debris. Plexiglass does not offer suffiecient protection.

Second, and perhaps of more relevant concern, the plexiglass is going to be loud as hell. Not only is the plexiglass just plastic, you won't be able to insulate it, either on the engine side or on the backpad side (because if you insulate it then you cover up the plexiglass and then what's the point of the whole thing if you can't look through it). With just plexiglass between you and a 3.6, sound fatigue will set in real fast. It's just not worth it.

Third, let's face it, looking through the fire wall and seeing a portion of the fan is sort of cool, but really, not all that cool looking. It's just a fan, an not even the full fan, just the part you can see through the small opening.

I say bolt on a steel panel, cover the panel inside and out with insulating material and cover the whole thing with a back pad center piece. Here's a few pictures.

Douglas

dddd

Dude,

That car looks awesome.

I would make the access hole bigger and go for a larger rectangle with rounded corners - I think it will look better than a circle.

Make sure you use beefy plexiglass - or maybe even some kind of laminate or safety glass. I don't know what would offer the best fire protection. If you have a fire you don't want your arms getting scorched. And I would get a fire extinguisher just for good measure. You could put rice-boy neon lights in your engine compartment to make it look cool at night :-)

I think I agree with the posting above - it may just not be worth it.

Fiid.

Yeah, I'm not so sure about the plexiglas, but it's obviously not my top priority right now. I'll reconsider when I'm getting the interior together.

> The engine looks beautiful and I dig the 3.6 badge in the Porsche script. I have no idea where you found that.

Thanks. I made the badge out of two old 914 badges. The 914 Gods were quite upset at first for cutting them up (I thought I might be struck down by a rusted lightening bolt), but I think they understand now. The "3" is a "2" from a "2.0" with a little bondo, and the "6" is an upside "9" from "914" with a little more bondo. Bondo, sandpaper, Dremel, and time... Ok, maybe I don't have my priorities straight...

Pictures from my previous update:
www.streamload.com/steve/914_update

-Steve

Ah! I'm blind!

Nice...

wow i'm speechless. It's like my dream being lived out by someonelse