Bolted the stubbies up ok, bolted the header pipes up ok, but the 4 to 1 collector was hard to slide onto the pipes. Is it necessary to get it on there so you can bolt the collector to the two pipes? How would I get it to slide on easier?

Ran the car with the megaphone on----loud

I shoved the 4 pipes into the collector first then installed the pipes to the stubbies. Run it without the megaphone, waaay cool!

Geoff

Geoff, did you bolt the collector to the two pipes with the holes?

What two pipes with holes?

Geoff

I would think that if you attach the pipes loosely to the stubbies the collector would fit without too much trouble. After everything is assembled, then tighten all the bolts.

Foley nailed it. Assemble loose and tighten later.



B

Im too full from dinner to get down and take pics. The collector has two prongs to bolt the collector to two of the pipes. Ill loosen up everything and tiighten when its all assembled. I knew I should have done that, I was really excited to get it on!

megaphone huh? must be reale loud. he he. you're going to get good r&r-ing. h.e. weather is just around the corner.

kevin

Now you need a "Phase 10" muffler from "Tangerine Racing" or "Quiet Power".

Ken

I am running the triad header and muffler. Muffler is well built and meets sound requirements.

david

Thats a cool muffler. I have never seen one of their header mufflers. Thanks for the pic!

Cough...cough..um..cough.. cherry bomb..cough..



B

Nice if you lose the rear valence.

My muffler from Eurorace exits into the stock hole.

Geoff

I just got everything bolted up. The Eurorace muffler, like the pic Geoff posted exits the stock valence. It sounds killer! Low throaty rumble. I need to tie up a few loose ends (all the heater stuff I doan need!) and let it cool down and then I go for a drive!

could you fab dual cherrybombs for a /4 ? what sound / performance increase would that make?

Its called a Triad Aaron. It sounds good.



B

What do you do about the clutch and speedo cable? It stinks when the housing burns....

Exhaust tape?

I ceramic coat the header...

Ok ..Ok..

Look at the side of your engine block (passenger side).. see the little threaded tab hanging off the block (warm air guide used to mount to it) I use a clamp with a hole in it for a bolt and put it around the cables. This keeps the cables off the header.


B

DAmn, I did good as I already figured that one out without Brad telling me. I used a wiretie to snug it to the motor away from the header.


Geoff

Dont use a zip tie.. they melt...LOL


Safety wire works well also.


B

I've been wanting a safety-wire twister tool thingy.

Where can I get a decent one for a decent price?

Ahhhh....I see.....I gotta do some drilling/tapping because One of the exhaust studs stripped its hole out. I have another exhaust leak

Learn to use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and sockets on the exhaust nuts. This will keep you from over torquing the nuts and pulling studs out (not enough leverage to hurt anything using 1/4 inch drive stuff)


B

I use tie wire and wire pliers that I use when I tie steel (rebar). Got tons of it laying around from work.

Geoff

Sound advise. i will keep that in mind. I have a question on drilling and tapping. I have a stud that is 8mm one side, 9mm on the other. In a perfect world, I would get a drill bit that is slightly under 9mm in diameter, and tap, but since this is not the case, what size drill bit would be used?

You need to look at a chart 8.1mm drill for 9mm tap .1mm pitch (decimal equivalent .3189" drill).

chart

Thanks!

Use a drill bit stop to set the depth of the drilling. Drill bits tend to bite and go further than you want in aluminum. You don't want to drill too far like Mike did.
Geoff