Well what a load off.
Paul no worries they fit the flares fine. You need 4 1/2" of back space. or they WILL rub the inner fender well. This ia on my new to me Centerline 8 1/2" wheels
Total tire/wheel weight 30 pounds.

Closer

Nuther on inner rear fender. last one was outer rear

and for a job well done

and Paul, DO NOT run these on the street. These soft tires will pick up boulders and rocks that were not loose till the rubber sucked them out.

I see a caulk gun...




M

oh, and

I had about the same clearance before I moved the wheels out slightly with additional spacers and they rubbed the rear inside when cornering hard. Make sure there are no sharp edges or anything where the inside of the rear tire can contact as it surely will rub. I have some picts where the edge of the rim is actually out over the outer edge of my Goodyear cantilevers in the back and I never thought they would move that much.

Spray insulating foam on the inside of the FG to protect
it from rocks.....it's a messy job, but will keep your paint/gelcoat from starburst cracks.....Bout the only gud idea Brad ever tole me

Sweet! So do you feel a difference between the new wheel/tire combo and the old ones?

Caulk gun was to seal up the gap between the steel and fiberglass.

spray foam ? God I hate that shit. get one little bit on your finger and pretty soon it's everywhere.

Not able to go 10/10ths around the block. So I don't know if there is any difference is acceleration. tires did get heat in them pretty quick 3/4 mile worth. and then they sucked up rocks real good.

Good deal Joe, glad they fit. The flares really look good.... Good luck kicking some A$$ on the next AX....

-- Rob

QUOTE (watsonrx13 @ Mar 10 2006, 04:41 PM)

Good deal Joe, glad they fit. The flares really look good.... Good luck kicking some A$$ on the next AX.... -- Rob

is it Sunday yet?
come on come on come on Probablywon't get no sleep.
Got to leave the house at 4 am to get to Baton Rouge in time to set up the course.
NICE AND TIGHT!!!gates with good go fast bits inbetween.

Good deal!
What camber settings are you trying initially?

DAMN JOE!

That car looks fast just sittin' there.

Good to hear they fit. I'll try to get mine mounted this week.

I've made a few other tweeks to my car that I'll share later.

P

-1.7 front -2 rear (that's how I had the car set up for other radial R-comp tires.
The question of tire pressure keeps running around in my head.
I have gotten advice from lots of internet bubbas. som say as low as 19 psi ????
the guy I bought these from said run them the same as I did for my A3S04 Hoosiers which worked well for me at 29 PSI

I think I will go with that for the 1st run and examine my white shoe polish marks and use my probe type tire pyrometer temps across the face.
Forcast is high 70's to maybe 80 degrees sunny on 2yr old smooth as a babies butt asphault.

With enough data gathered and recorded I can make adjustments in the right direction for the 1st points event of the year. Trans Louisianna Autocross Series or TLAC 1 for short held next week. Not divisional competition but some pretty good drivers from Texas, Louisianna, and Mississippi show up from 5 regions.

Running more than one degree of camber will be hard on the tires and nowhere near optimum for grip.
19psi would be a good starting point if you were going on track. I think a good AX cold starting pressure is 22-24 and check it after each run. I'm sure the sweet spot is a little different than for the cantilevered slicks but probably similar. The car doesn't weigh much so the pressures shouldn't be very high for such a wide tire. I don't ever get much over 26psi in my race car tires and have nice flat temps across the surface.

sure is a dif car than the one that got tag teamed by a bunch of monkeys in goldbar.

k

Good luck Joe, gib 'em hayull.



M

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Mar 11 2006, 06:30 AM)

sure is a dif car than the one that got tag teamed by a bunch of monkeys in goldbar. k

Yup about the only thing the same is the studded hubs, the white dots which are on the way out soon.

in 2 years of ownership I've done:
was ----- is
1.7L "w" case D-jet ---- 2.0L carbed motor
Empi rims ---- Centerlines and Mahles
stock torsion bars ---- 21mm t bars
rear sway ---- now mounted on wall
stock sideshift trans ---- rebuilt flipped zd 5th
Recaro SRD seat ---- Pair of butt numbing Sparcos
Nice stock fenders ---- Sexy riveted flares
150lb coilovers ---- 200 coilovers
4 koni red adjustables ---- fronts to Koni Sports
Kragen big ass battery --- 12 lb Hawker odessy
steel front bumper --- fiberglass bumper
low and cool air dam ---- fiberglass valance
1.7L HE to Bursch ---- Tangerine EVO

Damn those wheels look good.......wer'd ya get em??

Glad they made it....good luck at the AX

Josh

QUOTE (Racer Chris @ Mar 11 2006, 06:00 AM)

Running more than one degree of camber will be hard on the tires and nowhere near optimum for grip. 19psi would be a good starting point if you were going on track. I think a good AX cold starting pressure is 22-24 and check it after each run. I'm sure the sweet spot is a little different than for the cantilevered slicks but probably similar. The car doesn't weigh much so the pressures shouldn't be very high for such a wide tire. I don't ever get much over 26psi in my race car tires and have nice flat temps across the surface.

Well I plan to keep good records. and will report results so URY914 can make the most out of his 1st event on the same tire.

Thanks Chris I am leaning towards your recommendations. Too late in the day to do much about it. But only plan on doing 2 runs with the tires anyway. Should get a good feel for what is needed.

QUOTE (degreeoff @ Mar 11 2006, 03:37 PM)

Damn those wheels look good.......wer'd ya get em?? Glad they made it....good luck at the AX Josh

Yup Pretty cool looking wheels. even the welded up one.
Put silicone on all the center seams and still have one that wants to leak. and it's not coming from the bead either.