My temperature gauge always reads at the left extreme of the scale. While I'd like to think my engine is always running cool, I don't believe it.

I measured the sensor. It measures 2.3K ohms cold and 300 ohms hot.

I checked the gauge. 300 ohms barely moves the needle. It takes a resistance of 50 ohms to get to full scale.

Does anyone know what the correct resistance range is?

I suspect I have the sensor for the aftermarket VDO gauge hooked up to a stock gauge. Pelican wants $30 for an OE senso while the aftermarket VDO sensors at $10 at Summit. Anyone know a less expensive solution?

It would be cheaper to replace the gauge - the VDO gauge is $25 at Summit, but the 2.062 inch gauge won't fit into the 60mm hole (2.362 inch) in my center console.

the Pennington book say's, 3k when cold, 1k when warm, engine temp sensor

If this is true, then I suspect my gauge is bad - although that's an unusual failure mode for a galvanometer.

Anyone have a nice looking solution for the 2 1/16 inch gauge in the 60mm hole?

You can make a new front panel for the center console fairly easily, and redrill the holes to be any size you like.

You can also make a sleeve out of wood with a 60mm OD and a 52mm ID.

You can send the gauge to PA Speedo to get it fixed and calibrated.

maybe the guage sender wire is grounding out somewhere?

b

egauges.com lists 10-180 ohms as the resistance range of a VDO temperature sender. If this is true of the stock sender, then my gauge is about right and I just need a new sender. I've ordered the aftermarket sender from Summit ($10) and will see if this works.

You need to make sure that you get a sender that matches your gauge. The older gauges use a hotter sender, the later ones a cooler one.

The older senders are NLA, and what is being made new are 150' C senders. If your gauge pegs at 300' F, this is what you want.

If you have an older gauge, the 150' C sender will not be accurate.

*All of this information is assuming you are referring to the oil temp sender*