what is the best way to measure so that when the new tie rod is installed the change in legth is as close to nil as possible

and is blue lock-tite ok to use on all threaded parts for this application?

I'd measure the overall length of the old tie rod from the rack to the tie rod center and then try to duplicate that as close as possible on the turbo units and set the lock nuts before installing them. You should still have an alignment done at very least for toe in anyway, but you could drive it slowly to your guy with an alignment rack.

I would not use any form of locktite on any of these treaded pieces. They do not need it.

An old mechanic said never use locktite on anything other than where it is called for on an engine case.

Get an alignment done. No questions. Necessary.

iirc, the instructions included with al blose's ttr kit stated blue loctite on the rack end. before you take the old rods out... with the front end in the air, wheels off. turn to full lock on one side. get hardwood dowel. touch the dowel to the wheelwell and lay it across the top of the ball joint. mark the center of the ball joint on the dowel and the area where the dowel touched the wheelwell, label for side. this is the gauge for that side of the car. repeat for other side. after reassembly, use the dowel to adj the length of each side. lengthen or shorten the tie rod, so the marks achive the approx same placements. you'll be close enough to drive the car to the alignment shop.

k

that sounds like a pretty good way to do it w/ the dowel ... anyone else got any home grown ways to measure... I might try several and see what seems best at the time ... or all to be truely anal about it

no measuring tape required for the dowel method. holding the dowel in place with one hand allows you adj the tie rod length with the other.

k

so the dowel goes across the opening of the wheel well , left to right , resting on top of the ball joint?

I think I might be over thinking this ...

no camera. hard to discribe. the dowel doesn't need to be cut to length. rest the dowel on top of the ball joint. then just touch the inside edge of the wheelwell, outline/mark the ww where the dowel touches with a sharpie and the center line of the top of the ball joint. i think my discription makes too much of it.

k

All you should be trying to do is get close enough to get to the shop for an alignment...

the dowel method will do just that. it approximises the settings you were at before you started. i did not intended this as a substitute for a proper alignment.

k

oh no .. I do under stand this is not a sub for an alignment .. but tring to redice the amnt of fiddling the tech has to do once they get it

that's all .. less fiddling = less chances to fuch up some thing ....hopefully