How much current draw should be going through fuse 11 when nothing is on? I know the clock is on that fuse

My battery hasn't been holding charge like it used to, so I hooked my multimeter across all the fuse block connections and I get anywhere from 1.5A to 2.5A at fuse block 11. What do others get at that spot?

My battery could be getting old, but I'm wondering if it could be something else?

That's way too much for any fuse when nothing is on. 10-20 mA would be more like it.

One thought.. are you doing this with the door on? (interior light would draw something along those lines)

check the pains manual [haynes] and follow the wire scematic on that curcut and start disconecting stuff til it goes away. theres you sign.

If you think you have a "Draw" I would test it from the battery, ether neg or pos will do. I don't know what the specs is on you car but surely less than what you see and likely less then 100ma

Are you sure 1.5A???

For the whole car it should be like 50 mili volts.

I think you should also be testing from the battery.

Pull a fuse one at time while the amp meter is hooked up to your battery.
Of course door jar button should be tape down as your pulling fuses. Keyoff,
radio off, etc...

Was anything installed recently? (alarm, stereo, electric windows, alt)?

QUOTE (racerx7 @ Mar 24 2006, 10:26 PM)

Was anything installed recently? (alarm, stereo, electric windows, alt)?

Maybe I'm reading my multimeter wrong, but I didn't think so. Switched it to "A" reading, then DC and pulled the fuse and placed a lead on each end of the fuse block. Maybe I need to plug the red lead into the 10A socket? I need to go find those directions for the dang thing.

Things I've "played" with recently were swaping out my fuel guage for a combo fuel/temp guage and also my partially homemade euro light kit.

You don't want to try measuring current with the probes plugged into the V and ground connections on the meter. Fried a meter in college doing that (or maybe it was the other way round?).

Anyway, I looked at the wiring diagrams for the 74, cause that's what I'm most familiar with. Fuse #11 powers the turn signal switch and the voltmeter, and also hooks up to the "dreaded seatbelt interlock relay". And that's it. So if you really have a ~1.5A draw through fuse 11, it's going to one of those components. See if you can stop the draw by unplugging them.

--DD

QUOTE (RustyWa @ Mar 24 2006, 10:56 PM)

QUOTE (racerx7 @ Mar 24 2006, 10:26 PM) Was anything installed recently? (alarm, stereo, electric windows, alt)? Maybe I'm reading my multimeter wrong, but I didn't think so. Switched it to "A" reading, then DC and pulled the fuse and placed a lead on each end of the fuse block. Maybe I need to plug the red lead into the 10A socket? I need to go find those directions for the dang thing. Things I've "played" with recently were swaping out my fuel guage for a combo fuel/temp guage and also my partially homemade euro light kit.

It needs to be pluged into the hole that says 10A. The 10A means you meter is protected
for 10 amps now. If you where running current through your meter through
the other holes of your meter, your meter might be broken now. Of course you where
running such a low current you might be ok.

Was your charging system working 100% before you started playing with the other
electrical stuff (lights, fuel guage)?

QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ Mar 24 2006, 11:29 PM)

You don't want to try measuring current with the probes plugged into the V and ground connections on the meter. Fried a meter in college doing that (or maybe it was the other way round?). Anyway, I looked at the wiring diagrams for the 74, cause that's what I'm most familiar with. Fuse #11 powers the turn signal switch and the voltmeter, and also hooks up to the "dreaded seatbelt interlock relay". And that's it. So if you really have a ~1.5A draw through fuse 11, it's going to one of those components. See if you can stop the draw by unplugging them. --DD

All multimeters are groundless now. Or whatever. They aren't a part of the ciruit that they are analyzing.

If you don't believe me, then plug it into the wall socket. My wall sockets only read 98 volts DC. The ones at my high school read 103. I haven't tried 3 phase yet. But I doubt that it would read it accurately or at all. Or the circuitry might arc at 220. I'll find out.

I plugged mine into a OLD laptop inverter card (for powering a backlight) and from one inch away it arched, NICE blue arc (solid/constant) and burned the crap outtsa my hand. Only read 45V AC. should have been closer to a couple thousand.

b

Looks like I used the multimeter wrong and needed to move the lead over to the 10A socket. After I did that the meter went to zero.

The battery is probably just getting old.

Thanks.

The only way to test battery is under a load.
The battery has to be fully charge for this test.
So, charge it first for several hours. Disable the car so it
will not start (fuel, or spark). Now, hook up the volt meter to
your battery, have someone start the car for several seconds,
if the volt meter goes below 9.6 volts replace your battery.