searched on the forum and couldn't find any tips & tricks for removing the 30mm nut that holds the driveshafts on the rear hubs. I've been using some Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster with no luck. Thought about using a MAPP torch to heat the nut but but I am worried about catching grease on fire or frying the bearings.

Anyone have suggestions?

QUOTE

searched on the forum and couldn't find any tips & tricks for removing the 30mm nut that holds the driveshafts on the rear hubs.

odd, it's been covered many times.

a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil are good; WD-40, which is neither penetrant nor oil, is not.

heat in reasonable quantities is appropriate.

is the vehicle stable, on all 4 wheels? you understand the normal torque on that nut is in excess of 200 lbs-feet which is enough to knock it off jackstands if they're even a little precarious...

most of us started with a long pipe cheater on a 3/4" socket handle before graduating to air impact tools...

look up top. see what chris did.

k

yeah it is stable and on the ground. maybe i am searching incorrectly or not using the right criteria in my searches. maybe just let it soak for another few days then try the heat. i'll post pics of the results.

when i wrote "up" i ment above. i pulled up chris' thread. now it's a bit down the page.

k

thanks to the help on this board, finally got the nut off of the axle. now for the really fun part - removing the driveshaft. Haynes says to use a brass or aluminum drift and basically smack the hell out of it. I'm a little worried about mushrooming the end of the bolt so any tips before I proceed?

QUOTE (mcbain77 @ Mar 26 2006, 03:47 PM)

Haynes says to use a brass or aluminum drift and basically smack the hell out of it. I'm a little worried about mushrooming the end of the bolt so any tips before I proceed?

Yes, smack the hell out of it...

QUOTE (Headrage @ Mar 26 2006, 04:02 PM)

QUOTE (mcbain77 @ Mar 26 2006, 03:47 PM) Haynes says to use a brass or aluminum drift and basically smack the hell out of it.  I'm a little worried about mushrooming the end of the bolt so any tips before I proceed? Yes, smack the hell out of it...

Off to buy a drift and BFH.

QUOTE (mcbain77 @ Mar 26 2006, 07:47 PM)

I'm a little worried about mushrooming the end of the bolt so any tips before I proceed?

have you done the inboard first? make sure you've got the inners out first.

before smacking the stub axle shaft (which it should not require, but some do get stuck...) make sure you put the nut back on - castle inboard - and strike on the nut, flush with the end of the shaft. NOT the end of the shaft alone.

Rich is right. Look at the thread about the poor guy who mushroomed his drive saft in his tranny. The same will happen if you dont use a soft hammer/drift. If it is really stuck, IMHO, you might as well kiss the bearing good by as you will need to heat, beat, and repeat.

Did you try taking the bolts out of the outer CV if all you are trying to do is remove the axle?

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Mar 26 2006, 07:17 PM)

have you done the inboard first?  make sure you've got the inners out first.

what do you mean by inboard?

Nevermind. I think I answered my own question.

Inboard = The transmission / cv joint side.

The engine and tranny are out of the car and I am doing a full teardown for my restoration.

QUOTE (Dr Evil @ Mar 26 2006, 08:55 PM)

Rich is right. Look at the thread about the poor guy who mushroomed his drive saft in his tranny. The same will happen if you dont use a soft hammer/drift. If it is really stuck, IMHO, you might as well kiss the bearing good by as you will need to heat, beat, and repeat. Did you try taking the bolts out of the outer CV if all you are trying to do is remove the axle?

if you are talking about the four cv joint bolts on the inside of the wheel then yes. this thing wont budge.