I've got about 15K on the conversion. It's the std package with the 9" Kevlar clutch upgrade. I went away this weekend and drove about 100 highway mi each way. This is about the farthest non-stop trip I've taken. The way up was uneventful. On the way back I immediatly noticed from the get-go a whirring at engine speed with the clutch engaged, in or out of gear. When I disengage the clutch, the whirring continues, but I also hear a scratching, scraping sound, not at engine rpm but sort of ramdom.
I can't imagine I could remedy it w/o dropping the tranny so I think that's in the bag, but I'm wondering if any of you guys have experienced this.
BTW When I first setup the clutch adjustment, pivot ball height, etc., I first adjusted the clutch the stock way by leaving about 1/2" of fairly light play at the top of the pedal. But this would not disengage the clutch enough, so I tightened the cable uintil I cot the pedal to engage where I liked it, which leaves the cable pretty tight. My clearances around the clutch arm/tranny opening/adapter plate seem reasonable. Been this way for 15K.
Thanks
Ed

Hey Ed, Pull the tranny back and I will bet you see where the clutch arm is rubbing on the pressure plate. It did that on mine when I first put it together. I dont think it will hurt anything to get it home but I would not leave it like that. You need to remove the spacer under the clutch arm ball, that worked on mine. Or you can grind the arm down a little for clearance.

The other possible cause would be your arm bent. That would not be a good thing in my opinion.

Post up and let me know what it was.

Well, I think the diagnosis is bad throwout bearing. In the pic, you can see the surface that contacts the fingers. It's well worn and rotates very roughly. More peculiar is that the outer ring also moves, which was making the ears (where the straignt arrow is) spin occasionally when it wasn't binding and hit against the inside of the clutch arm. Isn't the outer part supposed to be secured, maybe by those ears? I don't have a pic of a good one. Anyone seen this before. I need to call Scott.
Ed

yikes.

I would have bet money Scott was right about the arm hitting the p plate, since I went though an extended bout with the same problem. After seeing the pics, clearly you were right and have bearing failure.

The part you ask about should not be moving. That thing is completely cooked.

Make sure you have all the spacers out from under the pivot ball. It sure looks like you've had too much pressure on that bearing even with the clutch out.

i thought there was not supposed to be any pressure on the TO bearing when in the relaxed position?

so the TO bearing is not engauged at all.

i think i had to "bend" my clutch fork a bit or clearance the transaxle opening..... if i remember correctly...

elocke

D'oh. not login page.

I think it all makes sense now. I know I had alot of force on the bearing since day 1 due to the adjustment as I described above. Now my question is, why do I have to set it so tight to get it to disengage, thus pre-loaring the s*&t out of the bearing. It's like I need a longer pedal or clutch arm?! I assume since I bought the kit that everything's compatable.
Oh, my p plate fingers have a groove in them. Is this terminal?
Thanks for the quick replies! I've got some homework to do.
Ed

QUOTE (elocke @ Mar 27 2006, 02:47 PM)

Oh, my p plate fingers have a groove in them. Is this terminal?

replace it as well if it is grooved. Maybe Kennedy Engineered Products (most likely where Renegade still gets their stuff - ask Scott) could rebuild it and save you some $ I would definetly not run the fingers grooved - they can bend under load much easier now, and I suspect would want to chew into the new t.o.

What "byndbad914" said..

For Sure..

Clayton

I just happen to have his number handy.

so that's the ocassional "whir" sound my car is making.....


hmmmmm

Looks like I'll need to send the p plate to KEP for a new web, and get a new TOB and flywheel bolts/washers. If I have them resurface it, I need to send the flywheel too, so I'll have that done locally.