I put all new bushings and struts on my '73 this Winter and over the past several weeks the ride has gotten noticably harsh. When depressing the front by putting my weight on it it barely moved? Despite my new Bilsteins, something was amiss? I disconnected my new sway bar thinking that this was binding - but it made no difference? The only other option, outside of bad new Bilsteins (unlikely) was binding in the new a-arm bushings? After disassembling the a-arm mounts it was obvious that they were binding? Interestingly they did move when I jacked the car up, but when disconnecting the strut I could not move the arm by hand at all? Thankfully I was able to work on the arm by just disconnecting the front and rear mounts, as opposed to removing the ball joints and tie rod. Reading that the movement of the bushings is supposed to be on the ID of the bushings, I removed the bushings and milled the ID until the bushing slid on with minimal effort. I also put the zerk (sp?) grease fitting on both the front and rear and slotted the ID of the bushing to allow grease to be added to the bushing later - just in case I get squeaking at some point. This is discussed in detail on Pelican - which I've provided a link.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....=bushings+lathe

My "A"m arms bind on one side too after installing the Elephant racing poly bronze bushings. I think it is becuse the suspension mounts are no longer lined up properly due to previous collision repair. If your mods don't help, you may want to consider Elephant racing's low friction control arm mounts

to be able to move the arm up and down by hand, you need to disconnect the strut AND remove the torsion bar adjuster cap

if you don't remove the cap, the spring (torsion bar) is still functional and chances of you moving the arm with the spring installed are pretty slim

While I concur with Jeroen... it's still a great write-up. Thank you for sharing that. I really like the step-by-step on the zerk fittings.

-Rusty