OK, so I am finally going to run a front mounted oil cooler. From what I have read -12 AN is the way to go for the lines. However, there are 2 choices.

Aeroquip steel braided hose at $6.55 a foot
Aeroquip socketless hose at $4.96 a foot

Seems like I will need about 28 feet (sounds like a lot) from what I have read. So cost difference is $44.52.

The connectors are more expensive too $88.18 for the socketless versus $126.52 for the reuseable. There is another $38.34. Total $82.86 difference.

It seems that given the routing that there is not much abrasion (http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=4657).

Is the steel braided really needed?

Wadya think?

Chris

Chris,

Where did you find this? Good price.

Aeroquip steel braided hose at $6.55 a foot


Bill

Blynes:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/

Has the hose for 6.55 per foot also give an additional 5% off on $100 purchase or more of Aeroquip stuff

Porsche735:

I went with the steel hose I have seen both.... the steel can be very abbrasive
on the body work need to watch how you route the hose.

My race 914 has a front cooler and braided lines and here's several things we learned: Get the largest cooler that will fit in the space in front, as you can always block off some of the air flow if too cool but it is really hard to make it larger at the track. Use dash-12 lines so if you go with a six later you will NOT have to replumb as you noted. Use a single or dual expernal filter for additional oil capacity. If you can afford it put in the dry sump system now as it will make the 4 last longer but even if you don't, design the system with the idea that a 6 will come later, just in case!!! There are some that use solid lines but most race cars use braided and run them in the body to protect them. Use pieces of large neopreme hose to provide abrasive protection. To find the length of the hoses, sacrafice a garden hose and route it just like the oil lines wil run and even add several inches "just in case". Good luck

John,
Agreed about the -12, that's why I only listed the prices for it above. It also makes it easier on your oil pump, etc. with 50% more flow. Yep, I was going to use a garden hose, I guess great minds think alike....
But, as for the braided line over the other line. It seems to me I could just wrap the parts that would rub harshly with some of that black plastic wire dressing stuff and not have to spend an extra $83. I don't care if it looks cooler.... I just want function...

Chris

BTW, which cooler and size did you use?

Hello?

Me ??

Fluidyne.


B

That is the part number.

They have a very nice website.



B

Oh.. FYI.. the Earls coolers dont have DRAINS on them for getting all the oil out during a oil change.



B

What pricing have you got on this? Here is what I have so far:

Fluidyne 30618 (21"x5.88"x3") $321 (what are the "extra" AN-6 and 3/8" NPT for?)
Mocal 19210 (13"x5.88"x2") $130
Setrab 619-12 (13"x5.88"x2") $150 looks just like Mocal, is it?
Setrab 920-12 (16"x6"x2") $185
Pegasus Oil Cooler (13"x5.88"x2") $160 looks just like Mocal, is it?

I still can't find a site with the Earl's cooler!!!

Seems like 6" or so high is the right size. Width, I guess could be just about anything. Given the price differential, Fluidyne seems kind of steep.

How would you drain the oil out of the cooler anyway? I guess drill a hole in the floor?

What are your thoughts on steel braided versus regular hose?

What are your thoughts on thermostat or not? If so, does a sandwich type fit?

Thanks,
chris

Setrab makes ALL the coolers except the Fluidynes... the radiator style cools MUCH better than the sandwhich style offered by Setrab (which is why Porsche uses radiator style to cool oil in 993'/964's)

I use braided.. but I really dont see anything wrong with running normal high temp rubber lines (more chance of rubbing thru somewhere using rubber)

I dont install a T-stat on 6 engines (race car crap) and I dont like to install them in 4cyl cars... but I do.


I say dont run one... just be very careful warming the car up.


280-300 is the price on the Fluidyne. If I'm building a new car... Fluidyne all the way.


B

try here Earl's Website for Earl's. no pricing AFAIK, i go to Summit for Earl's stuff, they have the big books with pricing...

my guess on the FluidDyne 'extra' fittings is the drain at the cooler itself; a nice feature.

i prefer the braided steel hose but lots of guys have reported good results with blue high-pressure hydraulic-equipment hose.

on the line from the tank to the oil pump run an anti-collapse internal spring if possible - evidently it's possible for the pump to pull quite a vacuum on that line. IAC it'd be bad to have the hose liner collapse.

look at the Earl's application information for pressure ratings and such - they make a wide variety of hose types for a reason. there's always a tradeoff on performance vs weight vs cost. and even thr braided steel stuff does NOT last forever - or more accurately - the neoprene doesn't - especially in the ozone-laden desert southwest. i had some fuel hose spring leaks like a garden soaker hose - i'm sure the fuel oxygenates don't help this situation ...

I used mcmaster carr lines and fittings and cant see going any other way.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

The SAE hydrolic lines are high temp, high pressure, steel braid within Buna-N rubber and $2.50/ft for 1/2 inch or $4.00/ft for 3/4 inch. Read the specs and compare.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ Search for 5279k214

The fittings are barbs to NPT but use a nut which allows you to easily remove them like an fittings. $1.40ea for 1/2 hose x 3/8 NPT.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ Search for 5440k113

Why would I want anything else?

Race car stuff is highly priced because there is a relitavly small market for it. Some of the stuff we need is widly used in industry and can be found at a more reasonable price.