Okay... I have been searching for a couple of hours now and still have not found the answer I really want. I have always liked the "German Look", or modifing an old car to look like a newer version. So when it comes to rims, I like what they sale on the market today. Everything I have been reading is older rims or porsche boxster rims...

How do I fit up a typical Honda aftermarket rim.. a 16x6 or 16x7 ... with a 4x100bolt. Can this be done by just having rotors drilled out? Or do I have to change the hubs also?

I think I have a good grasp on the overall backspacing and such, just need to know what is the most economical way to change lug pattern. I see bugs with these rims on them, so I know that the 914 can have it done as well.

Thanks... Please help
Brad

economical?

a guy on ebay will make you ANY type of spacer/adapter hubcentric etc....

the problem with studding the front rotors - every time you need a new rotor, you need to have em drilled again

rear:
pull the hub, and have it drilled and studded.



Mueller went to 4x100 "vanilla rice" wheels

"Vanilla Rice" wheels.... NICE.. I havnt heard that one before.

Well, I dont plan on replacing rotors that often. This is more of a weekend car... I have a fleet of work trucks that get driven during the week.
My question then would be... if you re drill the rotors on the rear, what happens to the existing lugs on the hub? How does the rotor stay on the hub?

QUOTE (timberwolf177 @ Apr 6 2006, 11:57 PM)

"Vanilla Rice" wheels.... NICE.. I havnt heard that one before. Well, I dont plan on replacing rotors that often. This is more of a weekend car... I have a fleet of work trucks that get driven during the week. My question then would be... if you re drill the rotors on the rear, what happens to the existing lugs on the hub? How does the rotor stay on the hub?

you do not stud the rear rotors, as they will no longer sit flush on the HUB.

you pull the HUB (yes...new RW bearings....) and you have that BOSSED and STUDDED from the rear...

ask eric shea, he does 4x130 to 5x130 hubs all the time....

Okay... I get it... Do you need special equipment to pull the rear hub? Or can the average garage full of tools do the job?

Oh... and do you need to drill the rotors also?

Yep...BTDT....if I was going to do it again, I think I'd do things differently....

for the front I'd run 4x130 to 4x100 billet adapters.. the 7" rims normally have a 35mm to 40mm offset so they'd be just about perfect in the front

no "special" tools needed for the rear, just a good selection of tools

be warned that removing the rear hub almost means for sure you will be buying 2 new rear wheel bearings at about $45 each.

I wouldn't advise you to re-drill the parts unless you have the proper equipment, a Makita or drill press is not the proper tools to be used

Bearing puller for the cheap SOB....

QUOTE (* @ Apr 7 2006, 06:11 AM)

Bearing puller for the cheap SOB....

thanks for the pic but calling me a cheap SOB, now that's hitting below the belt!

QUOTE

now that's hitting below the belt!

Better get used to it. Anything above the belt just gets ignored. Since you're going to pull the hubs why not check the trailing arms and replace bushings. Oh and while you are in there repack the CV joints. ETC, etc!

Watch out cause one thing leads to another.

Welcome

Dave

Okay.. so I will need a bearing puller, but other than that.. I got everything.. cool.
And No, I was going to have them done (Drilled).

Now, those billet spacers??? You mentioned the front, but what about the rear? Will they work on the rear also?

And are those safe?

As suggested by the CSOB toolkit, it's not really tools you need, so much as bits and pieces. Be sure to read the tech note on the Pelican Parts web site. They have some nice ideas using threaded rod and sockets.

Replacing rear bearings was the very first job I did on my car. One of them was howling, and who knows how many miles it had on it in that condition. I got to the point where I had to drive it out of the trailing arm and it wouldn't budge - it was baked in place. I gave up, and called a shop to see what they would charge -- labor only - to do the job. It was in the $900 range. So I pulled the trailing arm, set it on an iron block, and wailed on it with a BFH. Finally broke loose. The other side was a piece of cake. Keep in mind that if you bremove the trailing arm, you'll need to have the alignment done.

Its pretty much a given that you will destroy the rear wheel bearings when you remove them. The important thing is not to destroy them when you put the new ones in ! Thats where all the tricky tips come in. You want slow, even pressure on the outer race of the bearing to pull it gently into place. Then equally even pressure to pull the stub axle into the inner race, without straining the bearing - pounding the stub axle in will not work !

The other thing to realize about the job is that you have to do a lot of work to get at the hubs. Axles need to be removed, so you'll need a special tool for the CV joints : NOT HEX, NOT TORX. Its 12-point, and it can be found at the local store if you try hard enough. And you'll need new CV gaskets. Once you get the CV joints loose, you still can't get the axles out of the way b/c of the exhaust. So count on pulling that. More gaskets. And you need to disconnect the shift rod. So there's a whole lot of steps involved.


Sorry if this part is obvious, but from your post I'm thinking you might have missed this : The 914 hubs don't have studs, they have drilled and tapped holes in them. The wheel is held on by bolts, not nuts. So the typical conversion is to drill 5 holes in the hub and press in studs. Then drill 5 holes in the rotor so it fits over the studs. Then the wheel fits over the studs, then nuts hold it on.

I've been reading up on this stuff, because I'd like to have a choice of wheels, but its frustrating how much $$ and it takes just to end up with something that, in itself, doesn't have any affect on looks or performance (You gotta spend more $$ on wheels and tires for that.)

That was extreamly helpfull.. thanks..
I know, I am just not pleaed with the selection of wheels out there for the 914 stock... so I need to modify.
I was just looking around and am having a hard time finding wheel adapter for the 4x130. Man nothing is easy. I used to run into this with bugs too.
It seems, money wise, to go with adapters. 200 bucks for the adapters, then there are plenty of 100 rims out on the market. Just got to find the right combo for backspacing.
But from everything I have been reading, a 16x7 will work with the proper backspacing. I dont mind rolling the fenders with a bat if I have to.

Anyone know where there might be adapters for the 4x130 to 4x100?

Drilling out will be the second option if I must, but rather not... That way I can always go back to stock if need be.

I just dont want to be wipping around a corner and loose a wheel.

QUOTE (timberwolf177 @ Apr 7 2006, 10:13 AM)

That was extreamly helpfull.. thanks.. I know, I am just not pleaed with the selection of wheels out there for the 914 stock... so I need to modify. I was just looking around and am having a hard time finding wheel adapter for the 4x130. Man nothing is easy. I used to run into this with bugs too. It seems, money wise, to go with adapters. 200 bucks for the adapters, then there are plenty of 100 rims out on the market. Just got to find the right combo for backspacing. But from everything I have been reading, a 16x7 will work with the proper backspacing. I dont mind rolling the fenders with a bat if I have to. Anyone know where there might be adapters for the 4x130 to 4x100? Drilling out will be the second option if I must, but rather not... That way I can always go back to stock if need be. I just dont want to be wipping around a corner and loose a wheel.

for the adapters, eBay would be your best bet...you'll have to e-mail a few of the sellers to see who can make them for you.

they "should" know or be able to figure out the needed info such as hubcentric dimensions and thur holes and seat pocket design/style

I just ran across this place. I don't know anything about them, no affiliation, I don't win a toaster, etc.

Custom Adapters

Preformance products should have what your looking for. You can call them at 800-423-3173 or they are on the net at automotion.com but they have things on hand and in their catalog that aren't listed online.
Randy,
"Car 54 Here I Am"

QUOTE (kart54 @ Apr 7 2006, 06:26 PM)

Preformance products should have what your looking for. You can call them at 800-423-3173 or they are on the net at automotion.com but they have things on hand and in their catalog that aren't listed online. Randy, "Car 54 Here I Am"

the adapters they sell are 4x130 to 5x130 (not a very good design)