I'm getting my project car in about two weeks and will need to weld on the rear fenders before I can begin any body work. Anyone have any good suggestions on welding on rear fenders. Any tips on what type of welder to use. I use to use a mig welder. Unfortunetly I do not have a welder and will have to rent one.

Home depot has lincoln mig welders starting around $200. You'll probably spend $45/hour to rent with some 3 hour minimum. This way if you bought youd be able to get back up to speed instead of rushing the job.

advice on the welder.....use one that has gas, flux core is too ugly for that type of repair...normally the really cheap MIGs do not have a fine enough adjustment which can be a PITA

how much of the rear fenders are you replacing?

the proper method would be to drill out the spot welds in the trunk (in the channel near or under the trunk seal)

I'm replacing the entire rear fender on both sides. They are already removed. I guess my biggest question is how to weld up near the door jam. The shell had it's original fenders cut off all the way to where you would normally have the inner door seal.

you may be better off paying a pro if ya gotta ask

like me - i have no clue.....

QUOTE (proto31 @ Apr 7 2006, 11:16 PM)

I'm replacing the entire rear fender on both sides. They are already removed. I guess my biggest question is how to weld up near the door jam. The shell had it's original fenders cut off all the way to where you would normally have the inner door seal.

it should be pretty evident how to re-install the fenders then, just match up where the spot welds are at the door jam....

do you have pictures of the car and the replacement fenders?

Welding local to me was 50 per day, 100 per week and 200 for a month... included all consumables...

Andrew

All ya need is a buzz box and a scratch start tig welding kit including an argon tank and your in. If you are not an avid welder, then try to do it with a flux core mig from Lowes for about 350$. What I learned through out my tinkering days is that if you pay someone to do it, it will be as expensive as purchasing the equipment yourself. All ya have to do is practice for a while and/or get someone to teach you how to do it. The most important part is doing it right the first time to avoid costly fixes later. Any welding store will help you on your way if you purchase something from them; pick their brains. The 914 tin is very thin and it will be tricky to do so practice first and ask me anything ya want. I'll try to be helpfull.

Since you'll be welding sheet metal, you should only need a 110A MIG. Most of the time you will be welding on the lowest power setting, so I would say that infintely variable amperage control would be a waste of money. I agree with Mueller that a gas MIG is definitely a must. Flux core is way too rough and is much harder to control blowouts on thin sheet.

Speaking of blowouts - from much experience welding on my teener the best technique is to do a series of connected spot welds with the welder set on the lowest power setting. This controls the heat the best. Wire speed isn't really an issue, but it won't need to be very high. A auto-darkening helmet is also key to this process as the welder is sparking on and off for only a few seconds at a time. With a constantly dark lens, you'll be constantly flipping your mask to find your spot.

Come by the house and try my welder to see if you want to do this.
Did you take the Bar yet?
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

Thanks for all the advice. Joe, I was going to call you sometime this week. I have a billion other questions to ask. Yes, I took the bar. Didn't get my results yet. The car comes in less then 2 weeks. Any suggestions on what I should build/buy as a devise to put the tub on. It will come with no suspension installed... Joe, could I get your phone number again?

Thanks