Can this be done with a Dremel rotary tool and some supplies from the EastWood Company? I think I still have an old Hot Rod magazine somewhere where they go into detail about how to P&P an (iron) V-8 head.

No

Why not? The Dremel spins up to 35000 rpm.

Bleyseng: Is it because you think the effort would not be worth the result gotton. If would seem to me if he wants to due it ,why not. It's his time. Just curious! Dave

I don't know... but I'm intrigued!

let us know how it works out for you!!
also, has anyone flycut 1.7 heads at home? just curious.

Only we 914 owners would ask questions like this! Well, shoot, since we're all spillin the beans anyway... I want to regrind my valves and install/ream new guides by my own self at home. Thoughts? (Speak up Mueller)

-Ben M. (as bad as the rest of you)

Because the Dremel bits are pieces of shit and would last about 5 secs cutting the aluminum.(I have a Dremel)
Get yourself a diegrinder and the right bits.

Its one thing to be cheap, its another thing to be cheap and stupid.

Geoff

I don't yet have a Dremel so I don't know what accessories will work with it. Will these fit a Dremel http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/itemdy00.as...I1.x=49&I1.y=58 ?

"The Porting Kit contains 80 grit abrasive rolls: 20 tapers for reaching into tight spots and 20 cylinders for flatter areas, two 4" and two 6" mandrels, and complete illustrated instructions. For best results use a high speed grinder."

Easy there Geoff. Bad day? He said he would get supplies from Eastwood - as in carbide-tip porting/pollishing burrs. I don't know why that would be "stupid" assuming he can get bits that fit his dremmel. Whether you're using an air powered mini die grinder or a dremmel what's the difference so long as they have similar speed and torque. Issues would be wear/tear on the dremmel vs. cost for die grinder and adequately sized compressor (my 5hp 40gal. compressor will power a die grinder for approximately 30 seconds).

-Ben M.

ps - you can't use stones or abrasive paper on aluminum. Gotta use burrs.

That is a cast iron head in the picture of that site, just alittle different from a aluminum head.

There are electric die grinders that you could use. A Dremel and any accessory fittings that fit it would be incredibly slow if it would work at all. The thing has little torque when you use it. I use it for cutting rust out on small areas with a fine wheel. I go thru about 10 wheels in 10 minutes, cutting out a 2"x2" piece.

My day was fine although I got soaking wet. I just think there are waay better tools to do a home porting job and be sucessful. The job is a pain why make it worse!

Geoff

I would have to agree. My Dremel is garbage except perhaps for polishing small shiny-bits

My issue with home porting is that you'll never get the ports to match and the flow rates will be different for each cylinder. In an 8 cylinder it's not as big a deal, but in a 4 cylinder if each cylinder isn't pumping the same amount you get a rough idle. Maybe it's not that noticeable, and maybe it's not that important. I just couldn't port my own heads for this reason.

Use one of the dremel flex cable extenders so you don't pack the dremel full of conducting dust. They last longer that way. We use the dremels at work to make tiny stainless medical device parts and that's the only way we get life from them.

Ben , I did the valve guide replacement and valve seat grind thingy. Need a nice long step drill for the guides, and an oven to heat the heads. Step drill the guides from the chamber side and knock out. To replace, simply heat the head and using a stepped rod, pound the new guides in.

Oh yeah, distrust the guy you buy the guides from and measure them before you punch the guides in. Failure to do this results in a cracked head. Ask me how I know

Had a coupla simple steped punch tools made to do this- 1 1/2 od rod with a section turned down to the valve guide ID. Do it on a lathe.

As per the seats, bought several valve seat grinding stones at the correct angles and different grits. Get a threaded rod to fit into the center bore of the stones. Use 2 nuts and washers to lock the stone onto the theaded rod. Turned down a front section of a threaded rod to fit into the valve guide ID. Fit the turned portion of the threaded rod into the guide to align the stones to the seat. Turn the threaded rod by hand and reface the seats. Doesn't take much pressure. Stones were about $15 about 12 years ago. Oh yeah, intake and exhaust valves are different OD and you will need 2 different punching and grinding tools.

Bought new valves, dychem blued the seats, put a dab of grinding compound on the valve and got a perfect match.

Ken

Do you have a specific brand in mind or a link?