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BK911
Please bear with me, this is my first 914.

I am trying to get a newly acquired 1.7 to run right, there’s no power at all. The car was sitting for about 2 years. I drained the old gas and put about 5 gallons of fresh gas and seafoam. She sounds and runs like she is in the wrong gear. You know the sound you get when you take off in 3rd? That what she sounds and feels like throughout the RPM range in every gear. And there is a popping sound when I get off the gas. My first thoughts were to change the fuel filter, change the air filter, and check the ignition timing. I can’t find the fuel filter; and is it really possible to see into the little hole to check the ignition timing? I pulled the air cleaner and oil dumped everywhere. WTF is that about? Oil was actually entering the intake plenum. At first I thought maybe the engine was over filled. Is this an oil based air cleaner? If so, what sort of maintenance is associated with it? Any help would be appreciated.

Can the fuel injectors be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner?

BTW, the Haynes manual sucks a$$. What are the must have maintenance manuals?

Thanks!
BK

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sjhowitson
What year is the car? I had a 72 1.7. It had an oil bath air cleaner. Take the air cleaner off wipe all the oil you can. Try and run it with out the aircleaner. If it runs better that could be your problem. Have you changed the plugs? Check the vacume hoses. Mine would come loose all the time. Car would run like s&^% till I hooked them up right. Does the car run OK at idle?

Hope that helps

Bleyseng
Yes, they had oil bath oil filters so leave it off until later.
Change the plugs and check the firing order
The fuel filter is next to the fuel pump under the firewall from underneath. Crappy location to change unless the car is on a lift.
Check the timing and make sure the advance is working not sticking.
Check hoses for leaks and hookup yawn.gif
lapuwali
All assuming everything is as it should be, of course.

The fuel filter is wherever the PO put it, and there may not be one at all. It's USUALLY under the car, near the passenger side rear suspension mount (just forward of that), but it could be almost anywhere. The lines run from the bottom of the fuel tank (visible through a large round hole on the passenger side, near the steering rack, which is only visible when you remove a large splash plate), through the center tunnel, to the engine bay, over to the passenger side, then up through the tin to the fuel rails.

The popping on deceleration can a mixture that's too lean (possible air leak), or ignition timing.

Yes, it's possible to check the timing through that small hole, though you pretty much have to lay on the rear trunk and look straight down to see it. An adjustable timing light is almost a requirement, as only the TDC mark is likely to be there on the fan.

As bad as the Haynes manual is, it's pretty much all there is.

The '73 1.7 had a paper air filter, not an oil bath, btw. The '70-'72 cars had the oil bath filter.
rmital
QUOTE(lapuwali @ Apr 13 2006, 11:55 AM) *


The '73 1.7 had a paper air filter, not an oil bath, btw. The '70-'72 cars had the oil bath filter.



actually....they changed some time during '73 from oil bath to a very hard to find round air filter. So some '73s have oil and some round paper air filter.
Bleyseng
Hmmm, I just picked up one of those paper filter air cleaners from mrs.K.gif Mueller.
rmital
Local Porsche Dealer wanted about $60 for round paper filter and didn't have it in stock.
He gave me the name of a local Porsche Racing Shop who had one on his shelf for $15...the box was all bleached out from the sun. Probably sitting there a while.
..other local parts stores could only get me the square filters...74 and up...
Dr Evil
QUOTE(rmital @ Apr 13 2006, 04:02 PM) *

QUOTE(lapuwali @ Apr 13 2006, 11:55 AM) *


The '73 1.7 had a paper air filter, not an oil bath, btw. The '70-'72 cars had the oil bath filter.



actually....they changed some time during '73 from oil bath to a very hard to find round air filter. So some '73s have oil and some round paper air filter.


I wish I would have known that. I have a '73 (made in May) that came with a stock oil bath filter. I just got rid of the filter when I bouchtthe car....after is leaked its oily goodness into my tool box dry.gif

The car WAS bone stock.
Pat Garvey
Find that fuel filter (if it's there at all) - should be under the drivers' side, forward of the heater valve. Change it as a matter of course, since the car has been sitting. Could also be a vacuum hose(s) gone bad from age. Change them as a matter of course also - go to Pelican Parts for the hose diagram - you'll need it.
Finally, there's nothing wrong with the oil bath air cleaner, so long as you maintain it properly. It's meant to be cleaned periodically - I do it by soaking it in gasoline (make sure the gas has all evaporated before you reinstall it!!!!!!!) for about an hour. There should be a red line on the interior of the cleaner box that indicates the level of oil to be inserted. If you fill to that level, an no higher, put the cleaner back in, you shouldn't have any sloshing problems with the oil - DO NOT OVERFILL!

Mine's worked fine with proper maintenance for 34 years. Haven't tried the paper element because I'd need to search for the correct lid to use it. Besides, I'm a purist.

PG
BK911
She lives!!

Thanks for all the help. I pulled the injectors last night and soaked them overnight in an ultrasonic cleaner. FYI the seals do not like to be soaked, they expanded and I had to find new ones this morning. But I got them back in and the car runs awesome! Finally faster than my Ghia. I am still going to change the fuel filter, verify the vacuum hose connections, and change the oil in the air filter, but she is already running awesome. Thanks again for the help.

Warning, gratuitous pic:

Click to view attachment
drewvw

looks like you have a couple nice rides...what year is your ghia?
rick 918-S
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BK911
Thanks guys.

The Ghia is a 67, but I got rid of it last weekend when I got the 914. I can't believe I waited so long to get a 914. This thing is a blast to drive. Speaking of which....
r_towle
given your location..
think about the amount of rust that may still be in the tank.

Pulling the tank and getting it boiled out is not a bad idea.
There is also a brass sock/pre-filter in the bottom of the tank that can get clogged, especially with old gas.

Things to check.

Gas tank.
Fuel filter
Points/plugs
The dizzy needs to be cleaned and re-greased every 30 years or so, or the advance plates stick.
change all your vacuum lines, repllace with new metric lines, I like to clamp all of them also..its a very sensitive system that does not like vacuum leaks.
Change all the rubber fuel lines.
There are plastic fuel lines that go from the front, under the tank, through to the rear, pump location.
There are rubber lines that connect the tank to the plastic lines.
There are rubber lines that connect the plastic to the fuel pump
The from the fuel pump to the injectors
There are little rubbers on each injector.

These car have a need to replace all that rubber...or you get fire, fire bad..

Then, tune up is a process.
Valve lash is critical.
Then Dwell..first
Then timing.

If you take the time to do all of the above, the car will run perfect.

Rich


BK911
QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 14 2006, 10:02 AM) *

given your location..
think about the amount of rust that may still be in the tank.

Pulling the tank and getting it boiled out is not a bad idea.
There is also a brass sock/pre-filter in the bottom of the tank that can get clogged, especially with old gas.



Man did you hit it right on. The car ran awesome until about 1/4 tank, then started running like crap again. I used more fuel injector cleaner and 5 more gallons of gas and the car ran awesome. Then at about 1/4 tank she started running like crap again. I pulled the sender and this is what I saw:


Click to view attachment

So I decided to pull the tank to por-15 it. Here's what the filter sock looked like:

Click to view attachment

So this weekend I get to refurbish the fuel tank and maybe replace all the fuel lines. Good times!

BK
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